40 water pump bolt head broke off what now?

[L78CHEVELLE]

Water pump was leaking on a 72 year old engine. All the bolts came out except the two inside the water intake hole of the pump. The heads stripped off. I took the pumps off and there is about 1/2 inch sticking out on one side and about 1/4 inch on the other side. Can you heat the block and turn these out with Vise Grips? What methods have you used to correct this problem?

[Kube]

You can apply (safely) some heat to the block. Work the bolt back & forth. In other words, don't try to turn it out all at once.
If that fails, drill and tap. As the surrounding material is softer than the broken bolt, be certain to center punch the end of the broken stud. Start with a small (pilot) drill and work to the proper tap drill size in steps.

[G.M.]

You can also weld a nut on the stub or make a little drill bushing that fits over the stub and use a starting drill that fits snug in the bushing to center the hole. Go through with about a 1/4" drill. Use rust buster and try an easy out. The heat from drilling and the buster may help loosen it a little. If the easy out don't work you can drill and tap the hole. G.M.

[Kube]

As a retired tool maker, I (and my peers) kept our distance from easy-outs. Yes, on occasion we had to resort to their use.
However, if you break one off, you will soon discover WHY you would have used this technique only as a last resort, especially in a situation like this, harder bolt / softer surrounding material.

[flatjack9]

I have found heat is your best bet for getting it out. Drilling is not fun. You must be dead center to start with the drill.

[ford38v8]

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Broken studs and bolts are not the end of the world. I've used both methods GM has described. Here's a picture story on the nut weld method, courtesy of the Ford Garage:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

Some ingenuity is sometimes in order, as with a broken exhaust stud I had on a MGB. I made a drill guide from a gasket, and used an offset drill, the engine still in the car. The guide centered the bit exactly, even though I couldn't see what I was doing.

[johnny]

I suggest you heat the stud [end sticking out red hot ] let the red go out ,then re heat ,do this 4-6 times you want the heat to suck into the stud part in the block,then let it cool down,cold ,weld a big nut ie its hole larger than the stud size so you can get a good weld from the stud to the nut.then turn slowly back and forth .I know many will say what good is it to heat the stud .There is an upsetting condition that makes the stud smaller.The block mass prevents the hot stud from expanding but when it cools it shrinks ,becomming smaller and looser in the threads.It might even turn with vice grips .Johnny

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Broken studs and bolts are not the end of the world. I've used both methods GM has described. Here's a picture story on the nut weld method, courtesy of the Ford Garage:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

Some ingenuity is sometimes in order, as with a broken exhaust stud I had on a MGB. I made a drill guide from a gasket, and used an offset drill, the engine still in the car. The guide centered the bit exactly, even though I couldn't see what I was doing.

That is amazing info. I never heard of an "offset drill" and didn't know they existed. Thanks.

[Vic Piano]

I've actually welded a bolt to the stub and got it out with the help of some rust buster. When you reinstall the pumps, use stainless steel bolts.

[Kurt in NJ]

The act of heating the nub of the bolt red hot, letting it cool tends to break the rust bond, welding on a nut, heating with a torch can both work.--care is needed in heating cast iron to avoid causing cracks, don't heat the iron around the bolt red.

One of the best ways of getting out a broke flush bolt or stud is to weld through the hole in a washer with a tig welder, then weld a nut to the washer ---after it cools 80% of the time the remains come out easily --- a second welding is needed on the 20%, 2% need drilled

[columbiA]

I think slipping a nut over the bolt & welding it should work &let it cool before trying to remove.Use anti-sieze on new bolts even if they are stainless.

[59ab]

I agree with columbia !

[desotoguy]

The statement by columbiA should read "Use anti-sieze on new bolts ESPECIALLY if they are stainless."

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

That is amazing info. I never heard of an "offset drill" and didn't know they existed. Thanks.

19fordy, I described that wrong. I used a right angle drill, as there was no room to do otherwise.

[Ronnie]

Tigb weld washer and nut works wonders.I've done dozens from 6/32" to 3/4"

Sometimes the nut needs to be welded twice haven't been stumped yet. Quench with wax candle while cooling is a must.Latest one was on an early 1900's Indian motorcycle frame,customer was amazed how simple it was.Easiest 50.00 I made that week.Customer was very happy with results.

R

[Tim Brown]

Count this as the 2nd vote against easyouts!

[Cecil/WV]

There's nothing easy about an easyout!!

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by Cecil/WV

There's nothing easy about an easyout!!

x10

R

[TRUCK_RAT]

I Like to use heat and visegrips. Usually after heating to red once the bolt will come out much easier. Also I like to drill a hole and use a small impact torx bit available at fastenal. Tap it into the hole and blamo.

[Rand]

Easy out no good.....
Dont ask me how I know
Randy