Model A Garage & Heat???

[IrishHills]

Probally not the best but I use a 6' 1910 Round Oak wood stove, 30 x 40 pole barn 10' ceiling, built out of cedar no insulation at all, work in a T shirt on coldest days.

Keep in mind propane is lighter than air, Very Dangerous!!!

Edit: meant to say heavier than air... thanks Guys

[rob mcdonald]

Originally Posted by msmaron

I know this is not really car related but i have 110v in my garage located near the ceiling and need to heat it. it is a 3 car can can anyone recommend a good 110v heater that will heat the garage just comfortable to work in? Any suggestions would help...
thanks


PS YES i know 240 is the way to go, but are there any 110v that will work out there?

Depending on the age of your wiring and fuse/breaker box 110/120 volts will have #14 wire for 15 amps and #12 wire will have 20 amps. Assuming you do have 120 volts then 120 volt x 15 amps = 1800 watts or 120 volts x 20 amps = 2400 watts.
HOWEVER YOU WANT TO BE CAREFUL DEPENDING ON THE CONDITION OF YOUR WIRING AND BREAKER/FUSE BOX AND PLAN ON LESS THAN 75% OF MAXIMUM.

Also model A's leak gas and we need to place the heater in the safest place possible to avoid any possibility of combusion. PLEASE BE CAREFUL....

To keep your hands warm try having someone sew two 10" square bags of denim cloth material filled with corn seed and heat in a microwave for up to two minutes. These work great to hold heat and make it possible to work. stay warm...

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by rob mcdonald

To keep your hands warm try having someone sew two 10" square bags of denim cloth material filled with corn seed and heat in a microwave for up to two minutes. These work great to hold heat and make it possible to work. stay warm...

Don't they call that microwave popcorn?

[Chris Haynes]

Geothermal heat in the floor keeps you warm and is dirt cheap to run.

[Mustang]

Keep in mind propane is lighter than air, Very Dangerous!!![/QUOTE]


Sorry – The real (or perceived) danger of propane
is because it is heavier than air, and tends to pool
at floor level rather than dissipate into the air.
It also has 2.5 times the BTU content per cu ft vapour
compared to natural gas, so a bigger boom for your buck.

For those with high ceilings, a hardware store plain Jane
‘reversible’ ceiling fan at ceiling level, blowing upwards
in the heating season forces the warm air trapped at the
ceiling to flow across to and down the walls, giving
better efficiency and comfort with most heating systems.

Regards
Art

[sturgis 39]

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Originally Posted by IrishHills

Probally not the best but I use a 6' 1910 Round Oak wood stove, 30 x 40 pole barn 10' ceiling, built out of cedar no insulation at all, work in a T shirt on coldest days.

Keep in mind propane is lighter than air, Very Dangerous!!!

I think you have it backwards. Propane is heavier than air.

[sturgis 39]

There is a forum about garages on the Atomic network. I visited the site yesterday. They talk about shops. There is another one for tools. I found the links on the HAMB website.

[sturgis 39]

I heat my shop with propane. electric and wood stove. It is 16'x20' and insulated. The propane is an infrared heater with two burners feed with a seven pound bottle. I turn it on while getting the wood stove going. I have installed a carbon monoxide monitor. The electric heater is 240 volt wall mount unit that I plug into my welding outlet. I do not use it much.

I went to a stove place the other day. I wanted to buy a pellet stove. The guy said propane was half the price of pellet stoves (dollars per BTU). I went to Menards and they have propane heaters for garages that do not have to be vented. They have oxygen sensers but they will not operate above 4500' elevation very well. They are wall mounted and about 9"x3'x4'. They tell what size for a one to three car garage. My elevation is 5600 feet so I will probably not buy one.

I think I will buy a good wood/coal stove and and throw a lump of coal in for the night. My wood stove is getting to in bad shape.

[glenn in camino]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Glenn, what do you expect your water heater is using per month in propane? Does the burner cycle on quite a bit as it is circulating or does the water make several cycles through the floor before the burner has to reheat the water? Do you expect fuel consumption is about the same as what your house water heater uses?

.

The system runs now and then during the day depending on the outside temp and is on a thermostat for each room. My garage has 3 rooms that I can control individually. I don't keep track of the propane use.

[Dennis Pereira]

there's tons of plans on the inter-net for passive solar home made, commercial, easy retrofit if you have a nice south facing wall. If I was building a new shop a nice thermosyphoning system with radiant floor heating would be the ticket. Once installed basically free heat.

[john in illinois]

I use a propane vented overhead furnace from Graingers. It is high in a corner of the shop. I used to have a lawn mower shop,so lots of gasoline use. Gas vapor sinks to the lowest level, so, a high furnace won't be as dangerous. I clean up spills and have had no problems in about 25 years.

[msmaron]

Ok thanks for all the info a sure lot to digest here

[Benson]

One more ... if this was mentioned then I missed it.

Overhead radiant heaters can melt plastic tops, blister paint or char cloth tops if too close to the car. Happened to a friend's Sport Coupe. Install instructions will give guidelines.

He installed the heater the correct height but left car up on the lift close to the heater!

[Jerry Parr WI]

Originally Posted by glenn in camino

Forgive me for bragging, but in the process of building my Model A garage, I bought a radiant heating system from Radiantek.com in Vermont. They shipped it to me and my contractor and I installed it before the floor was poured. It's heated by a high efficiency water heater powered by propane. The tank is outside. It stays 65 degrees in my garage 24/7, even when it's in the 20s outside, with no fan blowing air and dust and with no flames or noise. I wish I had it in my house. I highly recommend radiant heat for any new building.

I agree in floor radiant heat is the best way to go. My brother did it with his garage and his house. Difficult to retrofit but the next time I break up the concrete in my garage floor I will install it.

When it's in the 20s here we call that a heat wave and people shed their winter coats.

[GOW]

Nothing that plugs in will work for you........

[Tom in IL]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C
Glenn, what do you expect your water heater is using per month in propane? Does the burner cycle on quite a bit as it is circulating or does the water make several cycles through the floor before the burner has to reheat the water? Do you expect fuel consumption is about the same as what your house water heater uses?

Brent I have a home made sytem in my floor. My neighbor who was a retired heating-control contractor worked out the system for me.I have 4 inch walls and 10 inch ceiling insulation.It is about 1400 sq ft. They advised I use 1200 ft of pipe in the floor,6-200 ft zones.I have a standard 40 gal tank with the control set on "vacation".There is a circulating pump that runs when the room thermostat calls for heat if the strapon control on the supply side of the water heater is above 75 degres,this stops it from circulating cold water.
I don't know about the cost because we use propane for our domestic water and heating the house. Tom

[Fred K-OR]

You may get the "chill" off your garage but like mentioned above a 110 electric heater will not do the job. Last winter I used a pellet stove that is vented outside for both the smoke and intake. Know it could be a problem but I do not use it when any possible gas or other fumes may be around.

['29wagon]

http://www.garagejournal.com/

[Freddie (Memphis)]

Mark...I've used a 85K btu kerosene heater in my two-car garage for over 20 years now without an issue. Mine is a "Kerosun" unit, about 3 feet tall, with a 16" diameter on the cylindrical part. The bottom of the unit is about 24" square, and it has a catch-tray on the bottom that's slightly larger. On a typical 8-10 hour day, it uses about 1.5 gals of kerosene and puts out enough heat to let you work in your shirt sleeves after about an hour of warm-up time. Granted, we're in Memphis and our low temps are generally no lower than the high teens at night, so I'm sure there would be some adjustment for your location.

I have a larger than normal 2 car garage, with 14 foot ceilings...it's partially insulated, although the biggest difference in mine and other garages is two insulated garage doors with top and side air seals. The doors alone made a huge difference in being able to heat/cool the garage. Although the heater is a convection design, I also use a 20" box fan with it set up so the fan blows just over the top of the heater about 4"....just enough to not let the air flow disturb the kerosene flame. That way the fan distributes the heat around the garage really quickly...and it seems to work well. I've used this same set up in two different garages since 1985 without any incidents.

Initially, I was worried about carbon monoxide, but even with all the doors closed, I've never had any issues with CO. Incidentally, I've used the same mantel in the kerosene heater since new...it's never needed a replacement. I clean the heater every spring, and drain the kerosene from the tank before I put it away dry...seems to be in fine condition and has worked well all these years.

Good Luck...and stay warm.

[1931 flamingo]

I remember the kerosun heaters (kent,ct). They were quite the rage years ago, and I believe require no outside venting.
Paul in CT