Magneto and belts

[3W Hank]

I think I might made a misstake with my set-up on wateter pump belt and a magneto.

Block is 59BA.
Generator is a 37 on a PM intake.
Crank pulley, dont know but I think seller said it was a dual now cutted and will work to generator.
Waterpums its just mock-up and pulley is rather tight but I’m not shore if its 59BA or 8AB.
Cam cover is 8AB so magnet is a early Scintilla but lower part is for the 8AB.

I had the idea to get a 3-bolt cam cover and angle adapter but I realise it would be very hard on both short and the longer adapter and a fan ( ex 32 ) no matter of angle on magneto ( did not like electrical fan )
I did try to seek on Hamb ’wanted’ on both angle adapter and a magnto but not much calls ( junk ) or Very expensiveeven tuff shape.

So one day I came over the magneto for a resonable price and a nice tag but it was foot for a 8AB.
But magneto was burned so Cirello in LA has now fixed it, so with a NOS cap, NOS pointers, cam cover and all car time ( cost ) and freights, repairs its now a expensive unit. I guess way over 2K in it.

But I mock it upp fast here and where belt is there the magneto body.
It must be impossible with this set-up of pulley ( or ) ?
I thought this was the ’easy’ way, not as cool as a angle drive.
Hard to get pictures but here is the set-up.
Ideas how to solve this.

[petehoovie]

[kurt v]

a front view would help

[Ronnieroadster]

You need to use 8BA style water pumps and crank pulley when your using that type of front cover. Use Ford flathead truck F-1 water pumps their mounts will match the early water pumps you have in the photo.
Ronnieroadster

[Bored&Stroked]

The problem is you can't run a late distributor/magneto off the timing cover and still run the early 37-48 water pumps and crank pulley. When they moved the distributor to the side in 49 - 53 they also changed the crank pulley and the water pumps (along with the timing cover cam/crank gears, etc). The later water pumps put the belts further away from the block - such that there is room for the belt to go by the distributor. You could make the front of the motor "act like a 49-53 - with the later crank pulley, water pumps, etc.. That is what Ronnie is talking about . . . but that brings in another whole set of issues (depending on the frame/year you're putting this into).

Also, you have to think about your generator and fan - your setup will not work with the belts being moved further forward (using the late F1 water pumps) - so there is another problem.

So, if you're putting all of this in a stock 32 frame, you just created a big problem --> the crankshaft pulley now wants to be in the middle of the front cross-member. Some folks "jacked their engines up" - but that looks like crap. So, if you're putting this in a 32-34 frame and want the engine in the stock location . . . you're kind of hosed. You really need to go back to a front-mount ignition (angle drive magneto, crab distributor, etc). There is no room for the later crankshaft pulley - with the engine in the correct location. Hell, there is barely room for a single-sheeve crankshaft pulley in the stock location!

Also, you probably don't want to move the engine back - then you have firewall and a host of other issues (think transmission location, clutch location, etc, etc, etc.).

[3W Hank]

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Ok.
A question.
I has invested to much effort in the 8AB set-up so I cant build the case on try use a 38 generator and a std 32 fan.
But…if I found a doubble crank pulley and use the RT pumps can I use the inner to generstor and outer to pumps.
Would that work.

Or try to use a smaller pulley to bend the belt around the lower part of magnet (?)

[3W Hank]

Like this, a extra tension wheel move away the belt from mag.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

Like this, a extra tension wheel move away the belt from mag.

I still don't think that is going to clear, but the only true way to know is to mock it up. Use a rope to simulate the belt

[cadillac512]

Like this? Works...keeps the belt below the base of the Chevy distributor. The belt tends to crack after about 6-7000 miles with the reverse bend around the pulley.

[Bored&Stroked]

Coming up with a solution to re-route the belt could still allow you to run the rest of the necessary early water pumps, early crank pulley, etc.. If you're willing to make parts and customize how the belts work, then you should be able to solve the problem.

Having big-bends in these ole' v-belts will shorten their useful life, but who cares (just keep a spare in your truck). Given all the belt bends - that is why the automotive world went to serpentine belts many years ago.

Also, you should be able to run the 32 fan in the stock location (on the generator) - which makes the whole setup a LOT easier to do (in a 32 - 34 chassis). You'll also be able to use the stock 32 motor mounts - which is a big plus if you have a stock front cross-member. (with just a bit of clearancing for the later 37 -48 belt angles).

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

Like this? Works...keeps the belt below the base of the Chevy distributor. The belt tends to crack after about 6-7000 miles with the reverse bend around the pulley.

Yeah, something like that should work. The fan setup scares the heck out of me - especially from the perspective of balance and wobble. I sure wouldn't be running it at the RPM that I tend to do in my 32! LOL

[3W Hank]

Well I like the idea rew 6K..but a fan blade made 1932 and some rust tension in the rivets, jepp not the best idea in the world !

I will never in reality do a burnout with this car ir rew 6K.
But I lathed a mock up tension pulley at OD 2.5” and it look like this.
It will clear.
But how belt tension will be here I has not yet figure out.

Note, the magnet will go down more, as Ciirello made a new longer axle so I can has the steady rest in the cover.
( I need ream up hole some )

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Yeah, something like that should work. The fan setup scares the heck out of me - especially from the perspective of balance and wobble. I sure wouldn't be running it at the RPM that I tend to do in my 32! LOL

The fan setup is stock 1941 Mercury crank driven. Henry probably didn't approve of hot rodders like you! LOL

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

Well I like the idea rew 6K..but a fan blade made 1932 and some rust tension in the rivets, jepp not the best idea in the world !

I will never in reality do a burnout with this car ir rew 6K.
But I lathed a mock up tension pulley at OD 2.5” and it look like this.
It will clear.
But how belt tension will be here I has not yet figure out.

Note, the magnet will go down more, as Ciirello made a new longer axle so I can has the steady rest in the cover.
( I need ream up hole some )

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

The fan setup is stock 1941 Mercury crank driven. Henry probably didn't approve of hot rodders like you! LOL

I know the crank pulley is stock . . . is that long extended fan also stock? I've never built a flathead/car of that year.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

Well I like the idea rew 6K..but a fan blade made 1932 and some rust tension in the rivets, jepp not the best idea in the world !

I will never in reality do a burnout with this car ir rew 6K.
But I lathed a mock up tension pulley at OD 2.5” and it look like this.
It will clear.
But how belt tension will be here I has not yet figure out.

Note, the magnet will go down more, as Ciirello made a new longer axle so I can has the steady rest in the cover.
( I need ream up hole some )

The belt tension is set by raising/lowering the generator (where the fan will also mount).

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I know the crank pulley is stock . . . is that long extended fan also stock? I've never built a flathead/car of that year.

Yes, it is. Seems crazy doesn't it?

[3W Hank]

Its not that uncommon to use a stock 32 fan on a older generator in a 32 chassie as I understand it.
I heard of 32 wings has fly out cars on hwy…
But my is in a very nice condition, not pitted.

I was just try to give this issue a sololution.
Shore I can bought RT pumps but that get me change the idea on the generator/fan.
It also look better with belt closer to block ( my opinion )
I got a pretty straight line.

But it might be needed move out the water pump pulley atleast some, so my bet it will be RT pumps.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

Its not that uncommon to use a stock 32 fan on a older generator in a 32 chassie as I understand it.
I heard 32 wings has fly out cars on hwy…
But my is in a very nice condition, not pitted.

I was jusg try give this isdsue a sololution.
Shore I can bought RT pumps but that get me change the ide vs geberator/fan.mit skso look better with belt closer to block ( my opinion )
I got a pretty straight line.

[3W Hank]

Anyone know this company is still fix pumps ?
I need get the pulley out some to clear the covers.

http://www.fordcollector.com/water_pumps.htm

[hotcoupe]

Hank, yes Skip Haney is still in business. On a side note, I'm going to use some of the same components that you are, but with an angle drive. I'm going to dig those parts out and see if there is any interference. I believe Don Orosco (R.I.P.) reproduced the angle drive and there may be some surplus stock available. I think all Don's parts went to a guy in Australia.
Tom

[Bored&Stroked]

Are you putting this in a 32 - using a 32 frame and stock front cross-member? That will determine what you can and can't do with belt location.

[hotcoupe]

Hank, as I stated earlier I'm using a Vertex mag also, and I was concerned that I may have problems too. I know you have spent a lot of money and time on your setup, I'm offering this as a last resort. I'm using a Barker (vintage) angle drive and a spacer (see images) the belt clears the mag cap by about 3/8". You have to machine a replacement shaft to accommodate the spacer. Ten years ago I took my sketch of the shaft to what I thought was a competent machine shop and they made a mess of it. I got discouraged and just put everything back on the shelf. Your problems prompted me to get this stuff back out and mock it up to see if it would work or not. Also I'm going to run truck pumps and this is my solution to the problem with the front crossmember, I'm also going to incorporate a '30-'31 crossmember with the '32 crossmember to lower the car a bit.
Tom

[hotcoupe]

Hank, additional images of Vertex plans, my sketch of shaft, and a beauty shot of motor.
Hope this helps,
Tom

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by hotcoupe

Hank, as I stated earlier I'm using a Vertex mag also, and I was concerned that I may have problems too. I know you have spent a lot of money and time on your setup, I'm offering this as a last resort. I'm using a Barker (vintage) angle drive and a spacer (see images) the belt clears the mag cap by about 3/8". You have to machine a replacement shaft to accommodate the spacer. Ten years ago I took my sketch of the shaft to what I thought was a competent machine shop and they made a mess of it. I got discouraged and just put everything back on the shelf. Your problems prompted me to get this stuff back out and mock it up to see if it would work or not. Also I'm going to run truck pumps and this is my solution to the problem with the front crossmember, I'm also going to incorporate a '30-'31 crossmember with the '32 crossmember to lower the car a bit.
Tom

Instead of a machining a new shaft could you not use a button adapter like is used with a degree plate or when adapting a short nose cam to a 3 bolt distributor that originally used a long nose cam. Seems too easy.

[Bored&Stroked]

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Originally Posted by hotcoupe

Hank, additional images of Vertex plans, my sketch of shaft, and a beauty shot of motor.
Hope this helps,
Tom

If you cut up your crossmember like that - where is the front leaf spring going to mount? I can see one trimming the back side of the crossmember just a bit, but you can't cut much - or you have no place for the front spring to mount/sit on.

And if you trim the flange/lip off of the back side you should strengthen the cross member a bit . . . or run a modern flat Model A type cross member. Also, if you're running standard U-bolts, then you're even more limited to what you can do - they have to be where they came from the factory.

I'll take a couple pictures of my setup and post them - then everybody can see what needs to be considered. My setup if a stock 32 frame with a 42 Mercury flathead in the stock location (using 32 motor mounts and a 32 fan).

[hotcoupe]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Instead of a machining a new shaft could you not use a button adapter like is used with a degree plate or when adapting a short nose cam to a 3 bolt distributor that originally used a long nose cam. Seems too easy.

Kiwi, I understand what you are saying, but there is nothing to hold the extension on the center line of the shaft. I have given this a lot of thought and making the shaft solid from one end to the other seems like the best solution.
Tom

[hotcoupe]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

If you cut up your crossmember like that - where is the front leaf spring going to mount? I can see one trimming the back side of the crossmember just a bit, but you can't cut much - or you have no place for the front spring to mount/sit on.

And if you trim the flange/lip off of the back side you should strengthen the cross member a bit . . . or run a modern flat Model A type cross member. Also, if you're running standard U-bolts, then you're even more limited to what you can do - they have to be where they came from the factory.

I'll take a couple pictures of my setup and post them - then everybody can see what needs to be considered. My setup if a stock 32 frame with a 42 Mercury flathead in the stock location (using 32 motor mounts and a 32 fan).

Bored and stroked, the image that I posted earlier was ment to show how I modified the '32 front crossmember to accommodate a dual sheave crank pulley. The vacant area is where I am modifying a N.O.S. '30-'31 Model A crossmember. I wanted to lower the car and still use the '32 motor mounts.
Tom

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by hotcoupe

Kiwi, I understand what you are saying, but there is nothing to hold the extension on the center line of the shaft. I have given this a lot of thought and making the shaft solid from one end to the other seems like the best solution.
Tom

I’m not home or I could send pecs but the adapter spacer needs to have an ID that centers the shaft adapter button. This is nothing new and been used for years on flatheads with different ignitions and cams. I am presently adapting a Twin 4 cylinder mags on a Vee drive to a flathead.

[Bored&Stroked]

If you're making a spacer plate, it isn't a bad idea to put a sealed roller bearing in it - and then make a shaft to run inside of it. Here is what I did to space my Vertex angle drive magneto out a bit. This gives a bit more clearance for the fan belt.

I don't like adapters flopping around and giving me timing fluctuations - but I'm a bit of a perfectionist.

Plate-Finished-Back copy.jpg

Plate-Finished-Front copy.jpg

PlateOnEngine copy.jpg

MagMounted4 copy.jpg

Drive-Shaft-Finished copy.jpg

Mag-Drive-Mounted copy.jpg

[Bored&Stroked]

Here is a picture to give everybody an idea as to what you have to work with. If you don't modify the crossmember, then you only have about 5/8" to 3/4" of space in front of a single-sheave pulley.

You can modify the crossmember to get more room - which has been done a zillion times. I really pays to mock all this stuff up in the chassis to make some final decisions on how best to address the problem.

IMG_0949.jpg

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by hotcoupe

Bored and stroked, the image that I posted earlier was ment to show how I modified the '32 front crossmember to accommodate a dual sheave crank pulley. The vacant area is where I am modifying a N.O.S. '30-'31 Model A crossmember. I wanted to lower the car and still use the '32 motor mounts.
Tom

There should be plenty of room for a dual sheave pulley with your mods - but there probably isn't enough room to cut, rework and fit a 49-53 pulley in the same spot - without being creative on how to strengthen what is left.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Here is a picture to give everybody an idea as to what you have to work with. If you don't modify the crossmember, then you only have about 5/8" to 3/4" of space in front of a single-sheave pulley.

You can modify the crossmember to get more room - which has been done a zillion times. I really pays to mock all this stuff up in the chassis to make some final decisions on how best to address the problem.

Attachment 539534

Thanks for sharing, Dale. Beautiful detailing. I like the black pumps, pulley and mag adaptor set against the maroon block. Looks great.

Not to derail, but I've been doing some work on my roadster and I noticed a rub spot where the belt/pulley is kissing the center of the tie rod. Looking at your pictures, seems like yours is doing the same. Thought of making a spacer to put under the pump legs to raise the motor us a tad, but I think I'll leave it alone.

[hotcoupe]

Bored and stroked, I see the way you supported the extension shaft, that's a good idea and I may copy your method. What started the idea of a solid shaft was the original Vertex drawing ( the image that posted up side down) shows a solid shaft and I just continued with that thought.
Tom

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Thanks for sharing, Dale. Beautiful detailing. I like the black pumps, pulley and mag adaptor set against the maroon block. Looks great.

Not to derail, but I've been doing some work on my roadster and I noticed a rub spot where the belt/pulley is kissing the center of the tie rod. Looking at your pictures, seems like yours is doing the same. Thought of making a spacer to put under the pump legs to raise the motor us a tad, but I think I'll leave it alone.

Yeah, I saw the same thing! It probably happened when I went to the HotRod Hillclimb, we did some real back-roads motoring and my shocks were not up to par. With proper shocks, I don't think it would hit. I'm going to replace the originals with a tube-shock setup . . . have had enough screwing around with Houdaille shocks (sp?).

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by hotcoupe

Bored and stroked, I see the way you supported the extension shaft, that's a good idea and I may copy your method. What started the idea of a solid shaft was the original Vertex drawing ( the image that posted up side down) shows a solid shaft and I just continued with that thought.
Tom

I can probably find the bearing number you'll want - took a bit of looking around to find one that wasn't too thick - as I needed room for the mag drive to inset into the plate.

[3W Hank]

I has a 32 front cross but it’s cutted after spring.
So motormounts will on frame.
I just borrowed 2 pumps, one 8AB and one 59 BA ’truck’ ( dual groove )
I found 2 std car 59BA here in Sweden but I need get pulley out atleast 3/8”.
I really ’like’ to use my pre 39 generator and the std 32 fan,
So with the dual groove it might work.
Say I use inner only crank/generstor and outher the pumps.
Or use driverside at inner grove and the crank/generator and on magnet side use the outer.
That is a ide, or ?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

I has a 32 front cross but its cutted after spring.
I just borrowed 2 pumps, one 8AB and obe 59 BA ’truck’ ( dual groove )
I found 2 std car 59BA here in Sweden but I need get pulley out atleast 3/8”.
I reslly ’like’ to usd my pre 39 generator and the std 32 fan,
So with the dual groove it might work.
Say I use inner only crank/generstor and outher the pumps.
Or use driverside at inner grove and the crank/generator and on magnet side use the outer.
That is a ide, or ?

[Bored&Stroked]

I don't see how you're going to be able to use the inner belt unless you make some sort of custom "idler" that is driven by the outer belt from the crank pulley (which will also drive the outer sheeve of the dual-sheeve 37-48 truck pumps) and then it drives the generator/fan on a short belt behind it. You might be able to mount the idler bracket to the two front intake manifold bolts on each side. The idler will need to be able to slide to provide tension to the outer belt and the generator/fan can slide to provide tension to the rear belt. You'll not use the rear sheeve on the water pumps.

[hotcoupe]

Hank, have you considered mounting the sheaves (pulleys) backwards, I know it's not an ideal situation, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
Tom
P.S. I typed that response without thinking it thru, of course you would have to contend with the crank pulley and generator pulley. Probably not a good idea after all.
TW

[rotorwrench]

There is a caveat to using magnetos. They don't generally have any way to change the spark advance. Aircraft use them but they pretty much run at a fixed RPM for the most part. They have to have a starting aid on at least one mag that retards the spark or they will kick back. Most folks that run them are using them for racing. Fuel mileage suffers if there is no load control to retard the spark. I'm not saying don't use one but there may be regrets later on if you do.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

There is a caveat to using magnetos. They don't generally have any way to change the spark advance. Aircraft use them but they pretty much run at a fixed RPM for the most part. They have to have a starting aid on at least one mag that retards the spark or they will kick back. Most folks that run them are using them for racing. Fuel mileage suffers if there is no load control to retard the spark. I'm not saying don't use one but there may be regrets later on if you do.

Rotorwrench this type of magneto made by Scintilla - Vertex which Hank is using has a centrifugal advance system in the lower bowl of the housing. So they this type of mag will work for fine for a non racing application. Many of us Hotrod types have always used the Vertex mags on the street for many thousands of miles.
Another point of interest fuel milage is rarely a concern in application's like this.

Ronnieroadster

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

Like this, a extra tension wheel move away the belt from mag.

I'm jumping in here without reading all the posts. Bored and Stroked is correct, running v-belts backwards on the idler at this extreme angle will be too tough on the belts.

[rotorwrench]

There is not really any way to put load control on a mag unless the whole mag rotates or at least the magnet rotates along with the points. Centrifugal impulse couplings are not for anything other than starting aids. They retard the spark until the engine starts and then the centrifugal weights cut the starting aid out of the system. Mags have to maintain proper internal timing to keep E-gap at the point opening or they won't run. You move the points plate and the internal timing is off.

The old Motorcycles that had load control moved the whole mag to change the advance for load control. The old S2R Lucas mag on my 58 Indian Enfield just has a little impulse coupling for starting and then runs full advance all the time. Aircraft mags work the same way. They will run OK but their is no load control. It's just full advance all the time.

Perhaps they have a model that moves the magnets along with the points but most of the old Vertex mags are the Locked type. The Lucas K2R Cycle mag was set up for adjustable advance but it was manual and worked by having the coil built into the rotor with fixed magnets. That way they could move the magnets and the breaker points a little bit. P-Mags are starting to show up on aircraft now days and they are electronically controlled mags much like an electronic ignition. They have a programmable advance curve but they are basically a little alternator with an electronic ignition. They are not a true magneto that runs off the building magnetic field in the coil which inducts as the breaker points open at E-gap when the magnetic field reverses due to rotation of the magnet.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

There is not really any way to put load control on a mag unless the whole mag rotates or at least the magnet rotates along with the points. Centrifugal impulse couplings are not for anything other than starting aids. They retard the spark until the engine starts and then the centrifugal weights cut the starting aid out of the system. Mags have to maintain proper internal timing to keep E-gap at the point opening or they won't run. You move the points plate and the internal timing is off.

The old Motorcycles that had load control moved the whole mag to change the advance for load control. The old S2R Lucas mag on my 58 Indian Enfield just has a little impulse coupling for starting and then runs full advance all the time. Aircraft mags work the same way. They will run OK but their is no load control. It's just full advance all the time.

Perhaps they have a model that moves the magnets along with the points but most of the old Vertex mags are the Locked type. The Lucas K2R Cycle mag was set up for adjustable advance but it was manual and worked by having the coil built into the rotor with fixed magnets. That way they could move the magnets and the breaker points a little bit. P-Mags are starting to show up on aircraft now days and they are electronically controlled mags much like an electronic ignition. They have a programmable advance curve but they are basically a little alternator with an electronic ignition. They are not a true magneto that runs off the building magnetic field in the coil which inducts as the breaker points open at E-gap when the magnetic field reverses due to rotation of the magnet.

It must be a miracle on how the Vertex mags actually have an advance system. But they do. Oh and you can get them locked as well meaning no advance.

Ronnieroadster

[rotorwrench]

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I know how they work but even with 10 degree advance it still has no load control. A street engine would function much more efficiently with load control is my main concern. A Chevy distributor with automatic advance can be taylored to a flathead for a lot less time, money, and energy. They work just fine.

[Bored&Stroked]

I have a few vintage Scintilla magnetos - they were the company long before Vertex. Every one of them has advance plates in the bottom.

The advance mechanism is 100% mechanical - it only understands RPM. With that said, in 100% race applications, the advance plates are frequently setup to lock the mag down - so what you set the initial advance too is the final advance.

You can configure the advance plates to achieve the correct amount of total advance as well as when it comes in. On flathead Ford engines, I like to have about 8 degrees of mechanical advance in the mag (16 crankshaft degrees) and then about 8 degrees of initial advance. This gives me the total of 24 degrees of advance - which is usually about the right amount (give or take 2 degrees). I like to have all the advance in by about 2000 RPM.

The original Harman-Collins magnetos had no advance mechanism - the total advance is 100% configured via the rotation of the whole unit.

[rotorwrench]

I found a good diagram and can see the way the drive fits into the the advance mechanism which in turn is driving the magnet shaft and breaker cam. It showed a clothes pin spring set up to push the advance weights back to starting position. It was a simple design but effective. It is likely as reliable as the performance distributors made by Mallory and other centrifugal advance set ups. They need need a little lubrication now and then. They can have spring wear over time just like any other.

As was mentioned previously, the advance function is a product of RPM. There is no way to affect load control. This is the way most aftermarket performance distributors are set up as well. Few have vacuum advance.

If a mag is locked then a person would have to turn the engine over a revolution or more before turning on the mag switch. It could kick back too easy if started with the mag switch on prior to starter function. At least the centrifugal advance would allow for retard at starts.

I don't know how much power the mag robs from the engine but they do take more torque to spin than a points distributor. Two of those bad boys is going to take that much more.

[Bored&Stroked]

Yeah, when running a locked-out mag (all advance in), I will pump some fuel into the motor, leave the mag switch OFF, hit the starter and let it spin a couple times - then turn the mag on. This is the best way to be "kind" to the starter! LOL

[3W Hank]

I has as I said bought parts to the BA block with AB parts ( camcover and cam and the magneto shaft ) and try get it to fit the pre 39 generator and to use the 32 fan.
Mix is not easy solve.
At this stage I cant change cam as to much time/money in it.
Anyway I find and bought BA car pumps so my idea is to go 1 belt with a tension puller, but that need me to get all groves out to free belt hit the camcover.
This was not something they did do in the old days but I will try.
As my front cross is cutted I has space for RT pumps and that will solve issue, but I dont like the pumps and then the generator and fan need be replaced, sounds not a big issue but I invested time and money get those parts plus I like the look ( idea on heads/intake/carbs/aircleaners/generator is from Hetfields roadster )

Why did I leave the 3-bolt camcover.
Well I never found a angle adapter or a magneto and then I ’thought’ the 8AB desl on belt was the solution even if I really did not like to use the AB parts, but once find the magnet, then I got a cam cover and then the cam I wanted to use ( the 425 Potvin )
But mix it with old style generator and the 32 fan get it harder.

Best idea here is use all 8AB parts in front of course.
Now I will bought a radiator ( has work on it for 6 month ) and see how it fit.
By the way, not easy find a decent V8 radiator so collect parts take time.
…then one see the next isdue :- )

[3W Hank]

Hetfields set-up but not a Vertex..

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

Hetfields set-up but not a Vertex..

[3W Hank]

I’ll just talked to Skip Heney and he could make me the early pumps and has the pulley out 1/4” or 3/8” out.

[rotorwrench]

I can't tell for sure but the Photo in posts 51/52 looks like a crab type cap. That would be a 1942 type set up or a modified rabbit ear distributor. With centrifugal advance and a vacuum brake they work OK and have some load control. Maybe not as hot as the Scintilla/Vertex mag though. The Harmon Collins dual coil set up was one of the hot items back in the day

[3W Hank]

Yes that engine has not a Vertex but it shows my idea of set up.

[3W Hank]

I got my 32 fan today from LA and if 6K its shore is a intresting ride…:- ))

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

I got my 32 fan today from LA and if 6K its shore is a intresting ride…:- ))

[Ronnieroadster]

The photo may be deceiving since it looks like the fan is going to end up in the middle of the radiator!
Ronnieroadster

[3W Hank]

Yes it shore look odd, maybe its not a 32 but if fit on generator.
My Lincoln transmission is soon done then I will be look on a radiator ( again ) so then its wait on my restored waterpumps from Skip in Florida and I has new Drake motor mounts ( as the Speedway was joke ) and mounts brace is from and 60 HP 37 engine that will be into frame.
-Then I will see if fan hit the radiator.
Fan is in a really nice condition, no pittings and tube inside is like new… but rivets is old and that long fan and ’maybe’ 6K…
I never used mech fans on my cars before ( race, only electric but in this case a Big No.

[3W Hank]

Here is what seller said on a 32 fan in a 32 frame ;

I’ve run that intake set up many times on 32’s
I’ve added a pic of my recent project…….
32’s have lots of forward space!
Full length is always best.
Hope this helps

[F1 MIKE]

On the HAMB look up GRISWOLD MAG.

[3W Hank]

I has invested allot of time ( money ) in my magnet and decided cam ( 8AB ) plus this is a short angle drive and has also its own issues on fans and belts.

[3W Hank]

The belts that was used ex 78-8620-A is little over 5/8”, but when did the smaller belts came into US production, like we see on cars from the 60’s and 0.44” wide.
In my case if those belts would work in the wider grooves and is ’time correct’ etc early 50’s it save me some space vs the 59 pumps and the 8 camcover.
Ideas.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

The belts that was used ex 78-8620-A is little over 5/8”, but when did the smaller belts came into US production, like we see on cars from the 60’s and 0.44” wide.
In my case if those belts would work in the wider grooves and is ’time correct’ etc early 50’s it save me some space vs the 59 pumps and the 8 camcover.
Ideas.

The narrow belt came on the Ford 8BA in 1949 for the engines used in some passenger cars. The wide belt continued being used for the Ford trucks in 1949 to 1953.
Ronnieroadster

[3W Hank]

Will the narrow belt fit on the wider pulleys ?