Synchro trans for a 34 Ford?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Probably your best bet would be to install '39-'48 passenger car gears in your '34 transmission case and use a double detent shifter top with the wide 2/3 fork. These gears will fit the early case while some of the pickup truck gears will not. This would give you the equivalent of a "39 transmission" while allowing you to retain the original serial numbered case.

I have installed a set of 48 gears in to a 33 gearbox with
wonderful drive-ability results.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Torchie

You can put the later gears into the earlier case but I believe that some modifications need to be done for gear clearance issues. I would contact Mac Van Pelt. Has both the knowledge and the parts that you may need.
Torchie.

No modifications to the transmission are required. However, a special puller / installer tool is required.

[JSeery]

An easy way would be to look at the vehicle number on the bellhousing area.

[Menace Kustoms]

I'll try and look when I get home tonight.

[JSeery]

You can also look at VanPelts site on transmission ID, but a lot of it is internal. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flath...sID_3speed.htm

[rotorwrench]

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If it has the shifter tower that slants a bit to the rear, it is likely still an unmodified early 32 thru 35 type but the VIN on the top of the case above the inspection port should ID what year it is from. The later shift towers are straight up vertical. somewhere is 1938 they came up with what we now refer to as the double detent shift tower. They have a more positive shift & hold than the 36 thru 38 single detent shifter tower.

Mr VanPelt's early Ford 3-speed manual list what gear sets work with each other and fit what and it is full of information about the old Ford cog boxes. It is a must for the DIY early Ford enthusiast.

[Menace Kustoms]

Thanks guys! Looks like I have some reading to do.

[bobH]

Start with Bill Robinson, flathead engine builder, right off 18 near Central, 14043 Pioneer, 760-961-0518.
RG 158 is in Apple Valley, and Bill can steer you to anyone with trans experience and parts.

[Menace Kustoms]

Thanks! That's super local to me. I love this forum.

[russcc]

Get the serial number off the bell housing of the transmission, should start with an 18- with the serial number running 18-457,478 to 18-1,234,356 for 1934. Higher serial numbers are later years, lower numbers are earlier. Mac Van Pelts book covers all this information,

[Menace Kustoms]

Ok, like I said, I'll pick the book up. Sorry for being a newb.

[JSeery]

For just the serial numbers for each year you can go to their site. There is a chart posted there.

[Lawson Cox]

Get the number off of the case (Not serial number) and post it here.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Get the number off of the case (Not serial number) and post it here.

I assume you are talking about the number cast into the case, like "78" or "48".

Charlie Stephens

[JSeery]

I would use the serial number steel stamped on the bellhousing. You can leave off the last coulpe of number if you post it. But you can look it up yourself, very easy to do.

[Menace Kustoms]

Thanks man, sometimes there's too much info! I start with the simple stuff.

[V12Bill]

You state that you have a 59A engine with a 4" crank. I would find it hard to believe that who ever did that, left the stock 34 transmission untouched. Even if it is the original case it may have later gears or even Zephyr gears. It may have suffered hard use behind that 59A engine also. I just recently rebuilt the trans in my 39 pickup because the gears were grinding in 2nd and 3rd. I found that the brass synchronizer rings were worn. The replacement rings did not improve the problem. I checked with Mac Van Pelt and he informed me that some replacement rings were made in India using worn out rings as a guide. I only replaced old worn out rings with NEW worn out rings. Mac has the correct replacement rings.

[Menace Kustoms]

Well, the car hasn't suffered any abuse, I know who did the engine swap, and he owned the car for 50+ years, but it did a lot of miles, so I'll check for signs of wear when I check the fluid level. Thanks for the input. If I get any parts to freshen it up, it'll only be from Van Pelt, per this forums advice.

[Menace Kustoms]

Okay, there's only one row of synchros when I look through the fill plug. The fluid level seems ok, but there are metal shavings in it and the brass ring looked a little worn. What's my next step? Just baby it and drive it until it gives out? Should I source another case and start putting another trans together to swap it? If so, what should I look for in a case? Thanks guys!

[JSeery]

That somewhat depends on what you want to do (an Alice in Wonderland type of question, which way to I go; depends on where you want to end up!). You could rebuild the one you have OR purchase another transmission already rebuilt or have the new one rebuilt and swap it out. The rebuild part depends are your mechanic skills. These are one of the easiest transmission to rebuild there is, but if you are not experienced with this type of work or don't have the tools to do it, it might be better to have it done. Same goes with the removal and replacement of the transmission ether way you go. The rebuild itself should not take very long at all if you have all the parts there to begin with. However, it is hard to know exactly what you need prior to taking it apart. Some of this depends on how long you want the car down and how much time you what to spend on it. IMHO none of this would require more work (and most likely much less) than attempting to switch to a different type of transmission.