Wierd Coil Framus ??

[Paul Bennett]

1950 Mercury
What is the purpose of this thing wedged in my passenger coil? Driver side is normal. I could guess but it is usually best to get the opinion of experts.

So, whatsis? And should it be removed?

[rick r]

Spring spacer, a Quick and cheap way to fix a worn out and sagging spring. Doesn't do much for the ride!!!!

[JSeery]

Yep, used as Rick said to fix weak springs. They somewhat work, but have a tendency to work out of place over time. Should be a temporary patch at best, if used at all.

[A bones]

Aftermarket bit ( inexpensive ) claimed to raise or lift the car. Usually found in even numbers. Removes the ability of the spring to do its job while raising the car, if used in opposing pairs. Given that there is only one I would not hesitate to remove it. It may have been installed because the car was leaning to one side but there should have been another. There may also might have been more used on the drivers side. However they have the ability to fall out on a bumpy or rolling ( up and down ) street.

With the weight off the spring find a socket to fit. Just twist it out. If you are not satisfied with the way it sits, replace springs with a matched pair. Good Luck.

[Paul Bennett]

New question -

is there some chance that a previous owner torched the front springs as a cheap way of lowering the front of the car? The po from 1985-1995 added 1" lowering blocks at the rear but didn't do the front.

Admittedly the best fix is replacing both front coils ($200). I'll do a lot of jobs but I won't mess with the tremendous force in a coil spring and imagine a front-end shop would charge at least $1k+ labor. Adding new rear dropped springs make it a $2k+ job. Any other thots - I can rewire a car blindfolded but I'm in unfamiliar territory on this one - I want to put lots of miles on this car making ride important.

[38coop]

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Back in the 60's, we used them to jack up the front end of our cars to look like a gasser at the dragstrip. I have seen as many as 3 to 4 in each spring.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by Paul Bennett

New question -

is there some chance that a previous owner torched the front springs as a cheap way of lowering the front of the car? The po from 1985-1995 added 1" lowering blocks at the rear but didn't do the front.

Admittedly the best fix is replacing both front coils ($200). I'll do a lot of jobs but I won't mess with the tremendous force in a coil spring and imagine a front-end shop would charge at least $1k+ labor. Adding new rear dropped springs make it a $2k+ job. Any other thots - I can rewire a car blindfolded but I'm in unfamiliar territory on this one - I want to put lots of miles on this car making ride important.

10/20/2016 From personal experience I can tell you that removing the 49-51 Merc front coil springs is quite easy. I have a '51 Merc. Mechanically, it's the same as a '50. No special tools required. The 1949-51 Merc Overhaul Manual shows how to safely do it. All you need is a pair of jack stands, a good set of socket wrenches and a floor jack to compress the spring. A spring compressor is not needed. Now that you have your Merc you should consider buying these manuals as they are so informative. Save yourself the $1000 and do it yourself - one step at a time. Take photos for reassembly and documentation of work done. Reassembly is not difficult either using the same tools. Installing new rear springs is also not that difficult. Wish you lived in FL so I could help you. If you want, I will email you the pertinent pages of the manual. You can buy lowered Merc springs at this site;
http://shoebox-central.com/49-51-mer...d-leaf-springs or order exactly what you want from Posies. Be aware that when you take any of your suspension apart you may find you need new king pins, shocks, rubber seals, shackles and bushings so check it all out before you start taking it apart and also as you go. It's like a snow ball rolling down hill only it gathers more money, not snow. Been there, done that. But, it's all worth it when you have the satisfaction of doing it all yourself. Plus, you save a bundle. Be sure to also buy the red and yellow books shown below. They are invaluable and will save you money. One more thing. You will find that 49-51 Merc parts are geting very hard to find,especially brake drums and good sheet metal. Keep in touch with Merc owners. Join the IMOA (International Mercury Owners Association) and save vendor info. When you take your Merc apart, don't throw anything away. READ ALL OF THIS. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...&o=relevance&c[node]=5 I am pretty sure you can get the 1950 Merc chassis parts manual as you have a '50.
Enjoy your Merc and keep us posted.

[Paul Bennett]

Thanks to all for the education. Amazing the strange stuff one encounters. I'm 80 and have 20 more years to learn everything, cuz once you know it all, your plug gets pulled. Me granny told me that.

Books: 19Fordy - (I hate not knowing first names - anonymous IDs serve no purpose) You are embarrassing me to buying the CD version (hopefully includes all 3 shown) from Faxon as we speak. 'Course I never needed any book as a kid with my first '50 Merc like 'how many quarts are needed to change the oil?', because I simply took it to my corner gas station where the guy did that stuff on the lift for a buck or so. Funnily but what happened to that 'gas attendant' who used to clean my windshield when I got my $4 fill-up?

While I'm making no sense here, anyone know how to get ahold of Gene Winfield, he did my first Merc, Modesto in '55 which I think started him off on the Merc craz.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Regarding post number 5, I'd say there was an excellent chance the po used a torch to lower the car by either a) removing a coil or so or b) heating the spring to make it partially "relax". I've seen both methods used but never a good outcome - in my opinion - from either. FWIW

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Paul Bennett

1950 Mercury
What is the purpose of this thing wedged in my passenger coil? Driver side is normal. I could guess but it is usually best to get the opinion of experts.

So, whatsis? And should it be removed?

Perhaps a previous owner had a well-fed wife??

[19Fordy]

Here's the Gene Winfield info. If possible be sure and attend one of his workshops. Well worth the money.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...phone%20number
Now, get going on changing those front springs.
The Merc part number is 8m 5310-C. Free length of approx. 15 1/2 in. Make sure you install each spring with the flat leaf at the top and the round leaf in the groove of the bottom spring plate. JIM I sent you a PM.

[A bones]

What 19Fordy said, except no how it should cost a grand for just springs. Granted the other suspension parts might have to go too. But if you need 'em you need 'em.

I've done all this work alone. Read the books.

[Mike51Merc]

Paul,
Get yourself a set of 1990 Ford Aerostar van coil springs for about $60. Direct fit, about 1-1.5" lower than stock springs, good ride quality.

[rotorwrench]

I've rebuilt a few Merc front ends and 19Fordy tells you the hot smokin tip about having the info to do the job. I couldn't find the OEM tools so I made my own to change out bushings but those bushings are surprisingly durable and can last a lot longer than the modern rubber stuff. I started out with some "little book" overhaul manuals in 2 volumes but found that they didn't have all the 1951 updates so I finally purchased a complete original Lincoln Mercury O/H manual in the OEM binder. They have a lot of photos in there as well as really good illustrations. It is invaluable. You can get the parts catalogs clear up to 1953 but the 1950 revision should have all the "original" part numbers. The 1953 will have the replacement part numbers up through 1953. I use a CD from Detroit Iron Information Systems for other publications that are for different model years from the 1951 Mercury models that I have. These include Lincoln cars so you can see what interchanges. I also have a Hollander Interchange manual for those years that has proved to be quite valuable as well.

Problems I have had include breaking the studs that hold the lower shock absorber mount to the A-arm due to rust. I just purchased new bed or running board bolts (carriage bolts) for an F1 pickup (they are the correct size & length) then brazed them on after removing the old pieces. The rubber bushings for the stabilizer bar are available since they were used on other models. The rubber suspension bumpers may still be available but I got them from Mercury Land before they sold out. The 15/16" king pins are available but I used old stock purchased off flea-pay due to the old thrust bearings being of better quality than the ones in the later kits. I found upper, lower, inner, & outer bushings & shafts NOS on flea-pay but they are available from Kanter at a high price. For front break drums you have to use drums from a later Ford F100 pickup with some mods to make them work. So far I have still been able to find all the parts but you have to do some looking to get the ones you want.
Kerby, AKA rotorwrench

[D. Jones]

Paul where in Oregon are you? If your not too far away I'm in Bend and may be able to help if you want to do the work yourself.

Dennis Jones

[Paul Bennett]

Thanks to all for the information. I'm getting overwhelmed with absorbing it. I am attempting to get the car running, I've not heard it yet. The coil will get done but my great attention is the engine right now. Will save this thread for multiple re-reading. Thanks again.