wheel studs, 32-34, are they swedged?

[cas3]

i went thru my whole stash today to find that mostly i have been hoarding a bunch of junk. i got two fronts that will clean up at 60 over, but need to replace a couple studs. are they swedged like A's, and later drum&hub ford stuff? i'd like to rob peter to pay paul !

[Terry,OH]

Yes the wheel studs are swedged all pre war and into 48.

[cas3]

thanks terry, love that coupe in your avitar

[supereal]

We tack weld all wheel stud replacements, as the knurling may not hold. If the stud turns in the drum, getting the wheel off is difficult to impossible.

[cas3]

i dont think i want to weld on a cast iron drum. my plan is to try and use a stud from a bad drum. in the case of these one piece drums i see no reason for the swedge its not holding a drum on the hub, and the stud has a flat side to keep it from spinning. if it goes in tight, and has good threads with antiseize, i see no problem

[JSeery]

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Antiseize (or any lub) on wheel studs is not considered a good idea. They are intended to be a dry thread application.

[19Fordy]

cas3: Just a small tack weld with nickel cast iron rod
would be a good back-up plan. Like I said, "Just a tack weld."
Avoids potential problems. Or drill and tap the edge of the
stud/drum for a 1/4-20 set screw to "lock" them together.

[John R]

Originally Posted by supereal

We tack weld all wheel stud replacements, as the knurling may not hold. If the stud turns in the drum, getting the wheel off is difficult to impossible.

Knurled wheel studs will not turn in the hub if installed correctly. The diameter of the hub hole has to be reamed to the correct size, compatible with the knurl diameter in whatever stud is being used. The stud will then have sufficient "bite" to lock into the hub and not turn. In addition, the length and diameter of the shoulder on the stud needs to be compatible with the drum thickness and hole size.

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by John R

Knurled wheel studs will not turn in the hub if installed correctly. The diameter of the hub hole has to be reamed to the correct size, compatible with the knurl diameter in whatever stud is being used. The stud will then have sufficient "bite" to lock into the hub and not turn. In addition, the length and diameter of the shoulder on the stud needs to be compatible with the drum thickness and hole size.

Any of the one piece front drums I have removed Ford studs from on a 34 have no knurl on them--They are a "bitch" to remove and replace even putting the same stud back into the same hole--The flat side on the head matches with a flat notch on the drum to prevent turning in the drum--As tight as the fit is, I really doubt the stud would spin even without having the flat side on the head.

[FlatheadTed]

Model A studs are swaged like a rivet ,you can weld the head onto the hub that is steel no problem .Only The drum part is cast iron .The v8 is a interference fit like 34Fordy says with the flat to stop it turning .Ted

[cas3]

here's how it went at my house. swedged? well, maybe, or barely. if you can see it in the photo there is a slight step in the bore of the old drum. rough measure is about 10-12 thou difference to the main hole. was that machined in at ford or a result of the swedge process, i'll leave that open for debate. now look at the studs pressed out, you see no violent distortion from me pressing it out. i did 4 of them and it was like nothing. a few pumps and it was coming out, not scary, didnt have to look the other way waiting for the explosion, nothing. if they swedged them in place, it is minimal and does not require cutting the swedge with a hole saw, they just press out. years ago i wrecked a 40 style hub trying to press studs out before i knew about the hole saw trick, literally bent the hub and no stud ever moved. those that hold a drum on the hub are a different game. also, note in the photo the piece of heavy wall tube i have ground to the correct angle, with a notch in it , that matches the the inside of the 40 style hubs, made for pressing studs out, and it fit the 34 drum too. now the bad news, i had planned to reuse the old stud. however, it slipped in the hole too easy to trust, so perhaps a slight swedge like henry did would be next. it wouldnt take much, even going around the hole with a punch would be the same as what i pressed out. i have a cheap swedge tool from the model A world, but today it seems to be hiding. now, jseery, i am very surprised that you recommend putting lug nuts on dry. is that really what the SAE boys recommend? here in the minnesota swamp if you dont put antiseize on lug nuts they may not come without breaking the stud. i have pump oil cans all over the farm as i do not believe ANY nut and bolt should be assembled with out a drop of oil. here, high humidity all summer, and salt in winter, you oil things or you say bad things when trying to remove it a few years down the road!! where i work, about 25 big trucks on the road, and all studs oozing silver goo around the wheel nuts. here also, any tire shop will use it on every tire change. not trying to argue the science, but here we have corrosion issues. thanks all, skip

[JSeery]

I confess I did the same until I learned it is a real no-no. It makes it easier for the nuts to back off.

From a tire review mag: "There is a great deal of argument in whether to lubricate lug threads. Some swear by the use of some form of anti-seize on the threads, whether lithium grease, WD-40, motor oil or Teflon spray. The idea is to prevent rust and make it easier when it comes time to remove the lugs. Others recoil in horror, saying that lubing the threads will result in over torqued nuts, or that the lubrication will cause the nuts to work themselves loose.

Manufacturers, engineers and other industry experts seem to unanimously oppose using lubrication. On the other hand, some customers, DIYers and self-appointed Internet forum experts claim to have used thread lube since the very dawn of time with nary a problem."

So, guess it really depends on your prospective, but after reading some technical data on it I came down on the side of dry.