Frozen Distributor 351 Windsor (69)

[malloyjp]

I've got a 69 mustang mach 1 with a 351 windsor (AC car). I'm trying to set the timing and the distributor (original) cannot be turned at all. I've been spraying penetrating oil (Kroil) at it , tapping it around the base with a big screwdriver, trying to get it to turn with an oil filter wrench. I'm really at a loss here, it's been weeks of no progress. It's not easy to access because the car has AC and the compressor limits my access to get tools in there. Anyone got any advice for me ? The car runs and I tried heating it up via the engine and spraying it with Kroil as it was hot, hoping it would soak in as it cools. No luck yet, hoping to hear some success stories for this situation. Thanks for reading !

[56 Mercer]

Hey malloyjp I just got through the same issue with a 56 Montclair. It took weeks to free it up, and a lot of encouragement from this forum. Here is what worked for me I used a 50/50 mixture of acitone and atf for a lubricant. I dosed the thing morning before work and evening, I tapped on the thing lightly with a hammer after every time I applied lubricant. After a about a week and a half I was able to move it a little with some water pump pliers. So after a few days of lub, tap, and wiggle it finally freed up. This thing had been setting for several years before I started on it.

The best advice I can offer is the same that was repeated to me more than once patience will prevail.

[oj]

The distr on my 460 has been frozen in place since the ninties I guess (I put new timing chain in it back in the late 80's and it was free then). I've wailed away on it and have come to the conclusion that the timing is deadnuts on, Ford perfect, and I have no cause to improve it. So, there you have it.

[Ford blue blood]

Pri up on the bottom of the housing and tap (or harder, short of beating) on the boss that hold the vacuum advance diaphram. She will start to turn, lube with penetrating oil or the ATF/Acetone mixture and work back and forth. The rubber seal is the culperate....

[malloyjp]

The acetone/ATF mixture, how did you mix it up and apply it ? Does it matter what kind of ATF is used ? What kind of hammer did you use to tap on it ? Were you tapping the shaft or the top? Did you try other lubricants before acetone / ATF ? Do you think the acetone/ATF did the trick ? Don't have water pump pliers , is that something you used to grip the shaft and turn on ? Thanks again , as you know it's a frustrating situation

[malloyjp]

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Unfortunately my timing is not dead nuts on, it should be at 6 degrees initial timing but its at zero or 1 atdc. I'm very curious to see what improvement ill get when it's timed right. Thanks!

[Y-Blockhead]

Acetone/ATF 50/50 mix. Does not matter what kind.

[rick55]

You need to grip the aluminium body of the distributor. The base is either stuck due to the rubber or the housing has corroded/sweated and has seized in the the hole in the block. Don't force the shaft, this is not the culprit.

[Ford blue blood]

I have used just a standard pry bar against the inake runner and the under side and a large drift punch. With a buddy prying up it has only taken a few wacks with a ball pean on the punch to make it come loose. Never tryed the ATF/Acetone mixture on one of those, just a good penetrating oil.

[LOWRIDER]

I would try prying up on the base like Bill mentioned. Used to use a "lady slipper" bar to pry under the base of the dist. to remove the stuck ones.

[malloyjp]

I'm really just wanting to get it to turn freely so I can adjust the timing. I see alot of posts about pulling it up and out. Bear with me as I've not done this before, but do you guys think its better to pull it out. I've never installed a distributor , so was thinking just turning it would be less complicated. Thoughts ?

[40cpe]

Have the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder with the rotor pointing at the #1 post on the cap. The distributor might not pull up out of the gears when you free it. If it does come all the way out when you pull on it, the folks here will talk you through reinstallation.

[LOWRIDER]

If you can pull it up just a bit you can get the lubricant to the area where it's needed. Follow 40cpe's advice.

[56 Mercer]

The acetone/ATF mixture, how did you mix it up and apply it ?

I had an old oil can one with a long neck, this helped me get to the base of the Distributor where it meets the manifold. There was no measurement the acetone is used to cut the AFT or thin it down to help it get to the problem area.


Does it matter what kind of ATF is used?

Not that I am aware of I already had some in the shop. If I were going out to get some I would not go to much expense.

What kind of hammer did you use to tap on it? Were you tapping the shaft or the top?

I used a piece of wood that I cut to the correct length and width to fit into the space I had open to get to it. I had a vacuum diaphragm that I removed and used the mounting for a good place to set my wooden piece against then tap on it with any hammer that was handy. You don't want to beat on this thing just tap. The point is to just get to move or vibrate a bit so the lub mixture can slip down to the problem area. At that point it can do it's job and the acetone that was used to thin the AFT so it will more easily get in there will evaporate away leaving a oily surface.


Did you try other lubricants before acetone / ATF ?
yes a bunch.

Do you think the acetone/ATF did the trick?
yes I do only because it is very thin and easy to slip into a tight connection.

Don't have water pump pliers , is that something you used to grip the shaft and turn on ?

The pliers were what I had, once you start to see some movement it won't matter what you use to move it just that you lubricate it and continue to move it to get the lubricant all over the two surfaces that were seized together.

Keep us posted on your progress, I know how frustrating this can be hang in there.

[46yblock]

Originally Posted by LOWRIDER

I would try prying up on the base like Bill mentioned. Used to use a "lady slipper" bar to pry under the base of the dist. to remove the stuck ones.

Yes, after weeks sometimes brute force prevails.

[malloyjp]

Thanks for the replies guys its much appreciated. I took your advice 56 Mercer and tapped the vacuum diaphragm mounting with a piece of wood in between and after many weeks of trial and error and removing the ac compressor to get better access I think it finally moved a little. I'm using the ATF/acetone mixture now. So my question is once you saw it turn slightly (and I do mean slightly) how did you get it to free up ? Did you get it to the point where you could turn it easily ? By hand ? Thanks !

[ford3]

sorry to butt in on this post so late, but the guys have given you xlnt advice on how to remove the dist, now to answer your last question, once you have the dist moving back and forth, get something to pry up on the dist, a crow bar a big screw driver or any thing while you turn the dist, prying up will make the dist come up as you turn it, it might help if you get a buddy to lend you a hand

[malloyjp]

Is it necessary to pry it up and out ? Or is it feasible that it could start to free up and turn easily ? Seems unlikely considering how stuck it still is but I'm a little nervous about breaking something if I pry it up. I'm just learning so go easy on me. Thx

[Ford blue blood]

Over the years the many stuck distributors I have encountered just need a little love. That includes prying up and firmly tapping the vacuum advance boss. Steady pressure will not harm nor break the housing, shocking blows will. Steady pressure and firm taps will do the job. Really no other way......

[ford3]

Blue Blood has given you the best and right way to get the dist out, do that and you will be fine