The Ford Barn

Mike in Louisiana · 03-20-2012, 11:27 AM

I'm tying to figure out what these two things are and what they do. I have the keys for the key hole. This truck has been sitting since about 1972. The engine oil is full and clean and I took all of the spark pugs out and the engine turns over with the push button starter in the floor. I took the carberator apart and cleaned it also and I'm ready to see if the spark plugs will fire but not to sure what turns on the power to the system.

Thanks

Mike

Mike in Louisiana · 03-20-2012, 11:30 AM

Picture of the engine that's in the truck.

Mike

Seth Swoboda · 03-20-2012, 11:31 AM

With the ignition switch in the "OFF" position, your engine will turn over but will not fire the engine. With the ignition switch in the "ON" position your engine will turn over and deliver spark to the plugs.

Seth Swoboda · 03-20-2012, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by comanche260

Picture of the engine that's in the truck.

Mike

Your original engine was once replace with what looks to be a later 59A engine.

Bruce Lancaster · 03-20-2012, 11:36 AM

The lock locks both the switch beside it and the steering shaft, the switch lever controls ignition. Starter would have been a foot pedal stock, many of this vintage have been converted to a '37-48 pushbutton on dash/solenoid for starter.

Mike in Louisiana · 03-21-2012, 07:18 PM

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Thanks for the info that helps alot. The lock is still froze up and won't turn yet so I can't turn the ignition switch on. I have 6.3 volts on on the left side terminal on the ignition switch so I put a jumper wire to the right side terminal of the ignition switch then I have 6.3volts on the wire going into the distributor but I can't get any kind of spark on any of the plugs. I have been into my 1930 AA truck distributor but never one like this one. I took off the top and I have 6.3volts on the little spring but that's as far as I have been. What would be the next step on getting fire to the sparkpugs?

Thanks

Mike

Reds34 · 03-21-2012, 08:27 PM

I would say that you probably have to clean, adjust the points. You may want to take a look at the spark plug wires too.

Red

Mike in Louisiana · 03-21-2012, 09:25 PM

What's the best way to get to the points I have never had one of these apart.
I'm sure I can get it apart but i do not won't to get anything out of time.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

Kurt in NJ · 03-21-2012, 09:33 PM

If the engine oil is full and "clean" in an engine that has been sitting for a long time i would drain it before starting the engine---even if it is into a clean pan to be reused ---the reason is sludge, when old oil sits for a long time all the "dirt" in suspension falls to the bottom and makes a layer of sludge on the bottom of the pan, many times covering the oil pickup in a 2-3 inch layer ---take out the oil drain plug --if you have to poke a hole to get it to drain you know that you definitely have to drop the pan before trying to start the engine --in any event poke around with a wire and see what comes out ---the stuff laying in the bottom of the pan is first to the bearings.

Before you go out for a drive check the oil in the steering gear --and the trans and rear ---it's no fun when something siezes up on the first drive just for lack of oil.

remove dist, take off coil ---then

If you mark where the timing screw is(has curved rectangular washer with dashes on side of dist),remove it, take the top off the vacuum brake (big hex with screw in center), remove spring and plunger(piston with leather in center rubbing on disc) --then the insides with rotor, advance, and points can be pushed out ---sometimes heating the alum housing some can loosen a corroded one ---then points can be removed and cleaned ---if the springs arn't broken and there is enough material left on the contacts-- I like the results of using a diamond knife sharpening "stone" --a small penknife size one for dressing points ---but I have used files, knife blade scraping, sandpaper even stones and concrete to clean points.

put it back together--don't forget to lube the cam, then with the coil installed (puts pressure on the point plate to help seat it to prevent point gap changing after you set it) set the points gap (to do a perfect job there are fixtures to set them and the timing -and more cleaning and lubing--but to just getting it running making spark should work

The vacuum brake is sort of a vacuum advance, the tighter the spring is screwed down the LESS vacuum advance you have, the disc the piston rides on should be smooth --smoother the better , if it is rusty it will eat the leather button on the end of the piston.

Mike in Louisiana · 03-21-2012, 09:55 PM

Will do.

Mike

Mike in Louisiana · 03-22-2012, 10:42 AM

Thanks for the help Kurt. I cleaned the points and while i have this opened up i was going to check the gap on the points.

Does anyone know what the point gap should be on this engine?

Thanks
Mike.

Bruce Lancaster · 03-22-2012, 10:47 AM

From your picture above, your distributor is 1933-36 type, .012-014...
Cylinder head is '46-8, meaning you have a later 24 stud engine, not necessarily the '46-8 matching the head but probably that. Practically everything flathead exchanges into some or all other applications one way or another, and on a vehicle with many years of parts swapping behind it you will need to ID each thing you work on...

Mike in Louisiana · 03-22-2012, 01:11 PM

I set the gap at .014 and put it back together and the plugs spark like the 4th of July.
I put about 3oz of gas down the carburetor to see if the motor would just hit and after almost one rotation it started up and idled until it ran out of gas. I wasn't ready for it to start so it scared me and also a unbelievable happy feeling also. To The people that help me I can't say enough for your help.

Wow!!

Mike

Bruce Lancaster · 03-22-2012, 01:33 PM

That is a great feeling! I would set the thing up with a small temporary gas tank while debugging and tuning, and drop out the gas tank for a thorough cleanup.
I would have some spare points handy...these things have a long steel spring, and in my experience the spring has some tendency to break on distributors that have been sitting for a long time.

More Dust than Rust · 03-28-2012, 08:57 PM

For what its worth, I have a similar coil in my BB. The original one in the truck was at least 50 years old,would work well for about 5 minutes then break down. I replaced it with a NOS one that lasted about 30 minutes before it heated up and the spark would start to crap out. I got Skip in FLA to rebuild the NOS one and the truck runs great ( at least for as far as I've gone so far but that hasn't been that far). At least the,spark doesn't break done anymore.

03-20-2012, 11:31 AM	#3
Seth Swoboda Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 3,795	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? With the ignition switch in the "OFF" position, your engine will turn over but will not fire the engine. With the ignition switch in the "ON" position your engine will turn over and deliver spark to the plugs.

03-20-2012, 11:36 AM	#5
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? The lock locks both the switch beside it and the steering shaft, the switch lever controls ignition. Starter would have been a foot pedal stock, many of this vintage have been converted to a '37-48 pushbutton on dash/solenoid for starter.

03-21-2012, 08:27 PM	#7
Reds34 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Eastern, CT Posts: 527	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? I would say that you probably have to clean, adjust the points. You may want to take a look at the spark plug wires too. Red

03-21-2012, 09:25 PM	#8
Mike in Louisiana Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 76	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? What's the best way to get to the points I have never had one of these apart. I'm sure I can get it apart but i do not won't to get anything out of time. Thanks for the help. Mike

03-21-2012, 09:33 PM	#9
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? If the engine oil is full and "clean" in an engine that has been sitting for a long time i would drain it before starting the engine---even if it is into a clean pan to be reused ---the reason is sludge, when old oil sits for a long time all the "dirt" in suspension falls to the bottom and makes a layer of sludge on the bottom of the pan, many times covering the oil pickup in a 2-3 inch layer ---take out the oil drain plug --if you have to poke a hole to get it to drain you know that you definitely have to drop the pan before trying to start the engine --in any event poke around with a wire and see what comes out ---the stuff laying in the bottom of the pan is first to the bearings. Before you go out for a drive check the oil in the steering gear --and the trans and rear ---it's no fun when something siezes up on the first drive just for lack of oil. remove dist, take off coil ---then If you mark where the timing screw is(has curved rectangular washer with dashes on side of dist),remove it, take the top off the vacuum brake (big hex with screw in center), remove spring and plunger(piston with leather in center rubbing on disc) --then the insides with rotor, advance, and points can be pushed out ---sometimes heating the alum housing some can loosen a corroded one ---then points can be removed and cleaned ---if the springs arn't broken and there is enough material left on the contacts-- I like the results of using a diamond knife sharpening "stone" --a small penknife size one for dressing points ---but I have used files, knife blade scraping, sandpaper even stones and concrete to clean points. put it back together--don't forget to lube the cam, then with the coil installed (puts pressure on the point plate to help seat it to prevent point gap changing after you set it) set the points gap (to do a perfect job there are fixtures to set them and the timing -and more cleaning and lubing--but to just getting it running making spark should work The vacuum brake is sort of a vacuum advance, the tighter the spring is screwed down the LESS vacuum advance you have, the disc the piston rides on should be smooth --smoother the better , if it is rusty it will eat the leather button on the end of the piston. Last edited by Kurt in NJ; 03-21-2012 at 09:55 PM.

03-21-2012, 09:55 PM	#10
Mike in Louisiana Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 76	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? Will do. Mike

03-22-2012, 10:47 AM	#12
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? From your picture above, your distributor is 1933-36 type, .012-014... Cylinder head is '46-8, meaning you have a later 24 stud engine, not necessarily the '46-8 matching the head but probably that. Practically everything flathead exchanges into some or all other applications one way or another, and on a vehicle with many years of parts swapping behind it you will need to ID each thing you work on...

03-22-2012, 01:11 PM	#13
Mike in Louisiana Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 76	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? I set the gap at .014 and put it back together and the plugs spark like the 4th of July. I put about 3oz of gas down the carburetor to see if the motor would just hit and after almost one rotation it started up and idled until it ran out of gas. I wasn't ready for it to start so it scared me and also a unbelievable happy feeling also. To The people that help me I can't say enough for your help. Wow!! Mike

03-22-2012, 01:33 PM	#14
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? That is a great feeling! I would set the thing up with a small temporary gas tank while debugging and tuning, and drop out the gas tank for a thorough cleanup. I would have some spare points handy...these things have a long steel spring, and in my experience the spring has some tendency to break on distributors that have been sitting for a long time.

03-28-2012, 08:57 PM	#15
More Dust than Rust Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Andover, MA Posts: 37	Re: 1936 1.5 ton truck key and switch ? For what its worth, I have a similar coil in my BB. The original one in the truck was at least 50 years old,would work well for about 5 minutes then break down. I replaced it with a NOS one that lasted about 30 minutes before it heated up and the spark would start to crap out. I got Skip in FLA to rebuild the NOS one and the truck runs great ( at least for as far as I've gone so far but that hasn't been that far). At least the,spark doesn't break done anymore.