Real problem or my imagination?

[Droobie]

So This morning if installed my new condensor and coil!! she fired right up and was purring! I was so excited to take her for a stroll through he neighborhood. I dont know if was me but it felt like 1st gear had no power or maybe was starting to stutter. Like I said I dont know if its me or if this is a possible problem. The tranny is good on oil and the gears shift great so i dont know what would cause first gear to feel sluggish and 2nd and third to feel good. I wonder if i need to adjust the spark from first to second. Also reverse feels like the car is going to shake apart until i fully disengage the clutch.

Thanks in advance!
Drew

[steve s]

Well, I'll really be interested to see what folks make of this. Usually problems emerge in the higher gears/speeds. Don't be fretting about spark adjustment, though.

Sounds like there's something amiss in the trans or U-joint, assuming there's really no chatter in your forward gears. Otherwise, sounds like clutch alignment or maybe grease on the clutch face. What else has been done to the car lately besides the condenser and coil?

Steve

[Modelakid31]

was this the first time ou felt it do this or has it done something similar but not a bad? if i read this correctly it sounds like your describing clutch Chatter.

[tuneman]

Sounds like its to retarded. The shaking in reverse is clutch chatter. Tell us more. Have you driven this before and how much. What have you changed on this car lately?

[ford1]

for starters check all motor mounts and trans mounts, any where the engine can move, even check all the rear axle mounting points for excessive play

[Patrick L.]

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Not sure what is meant by 'stutter'.. It seems you have a lot of clutch chatter in reverse,, but,, it doesn't happen in first ?? Maybe your 'stutter' is still a chatter.. How does the engine run in neutral ? I think we need to determine whether its an engine or driveline issue..

[Modelakid31]

is there any noise coming from the clutch housing area??

[31Tudor]

The clutch chatter could be adjustment or oil/ grease on the clutch plate or flywheel. The clutch pedal should have about an 1" of free pedal before it starts to engage the throwout bearing. I am not sure when you are trying to shift out 1st but you are only going to go 15+ MPH in first. Beyond that and it probably would have a sluggish feel. Be sure that you have advanced the spark some when you are ready to start moving.

[kp]

Grease or oil on the clutch face will cause tremendous "Shurtering " forward or reverse when enguageing the clutch,if the clutch is not too soaked up ,quick cure but not permanent ,we used to put the bumper against a tree or hold the brake on and slowly let out the clutch when it starts to engage hold it there and kind of Burn the clutch just a short time,sometimes it will burn the surface clear .Not a fix for ever it but if
you or on a tour may help you get back home but could result in clutch failure ,this is just and old time quick fix.

['29wagon]

a large tree.

[Droobie]

Hello folks, Steve thank you for your input, Mike C. I have had it out before and it has always had a little chatter in reverse but the forward issue is something i have noticed just this week also There isnt any noise apparent coming from the housing. The Tranny does wine dramatically though. Tuneman I was thinking the same about it being retarded but I have never had to adjust the spark in between shifts before if thats the case. I have a total of 65 miles on this car since my very amateur overhaul/restoration. All the drive train is original. Ford 1 I didnt even think about that. I was thinking about new motor mounts anyway because I can really feel the motor from the drivers seat. Thank you! 31 Tudor I usually shift out of first right around 12-15 MPH and i adjust the lever three clicks down to start off. KP that is good advice I will keep in mind but I have a saving wife that keeps the cell phone and the pickup with tow straps close Lol. I will try and put some more miles on it early this week and get back to yall. Thanks again!!!

Drew

[tuneman]

when you start off down the road , ARe you saying you have the spark advance lever 3 clicks down? If so it is way retarded. You should be at lest at 9clock or straight across . Some people depending on how they time it have the lever all the way down

[pat in Santa Cruz]

With a stock head with points set correctly and timing set with the pin in the detent with the lever all the way up, you start the engine at lever up all the way. As soon as it starts, advance to half mast for idle. As the engine speeds up in gear as you drive, advance until you are about 3 clicks from the bottom at about 40-45 mph. With a high compression head, less advance is usually required. It sounds as if you need more advance. you might find your engine requires a click or two more or less depending on its own particular idiosyncracy..

[Droobie]

When I drop the spark all the way to half way down the engine idles higher... Should I then bring the gas lever all the way up? or is my timing off? or maybe idle screw is not set right?

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Droobie

When I drop the spark all the way to half way down the engine idles higher... Should I then bring the gas lever all the way up? or is my timing off? or maybe idle screw is not set right?

The engine idles faster with more advance because it is running more efficiently with some advance. This is a good thing--you want to run the car with AT LEAST as much advance as needed to give max idle speed. After you've advanced the spark with the motor warmed up and carb air bleed and GAV properly adjusted, then adjust the throttle and/or little idle speed screw on carb's throttle plate rod as needed to give the idle speed you desire. You might want set the throttle one or two clicks down, in case you want to show off your super slow idle some time.

Your timing may or may not be off, but the effect on spark advance on idle speed is normal and no indication of anything wrong. Ideally, your timing would be set so the engine is almost but not quite starting to knock under maximum load conditions. In practice, you might expect to have to manually retard the spark (raise spark lever) for a few moments every once in a while, as when pulling a hill on a hot day.

Steve

[Modelakid31]

Droobie, If you get new motor mounts get stock ones. they are the better choice in my opinion. the flex mounts (floater mounts) tend to twist the frame more than normal.

[29RPU]

Happened all of a sudden, and is worse in reverse. What about a brake problem. That would develope suddenly...maybe the emergency brake failed to relsease (I know it is mechanical, just thinking). Seems like that might be a possibility and you might not notice it once you are moving. Does it pull and coast freely?

[Bill in Al]

Try riding with an experienced "A"driver and watch and listen as he/she starts the car and then goes through the gears. Ask questions as you observe. Enjoy-Bill

[Bubby Sharp in KY]

Check the coil poliarity , you may have a weak spark, If you dont have a tester just reverse the two small wires going to the coil and test drive. Bubby Sharp in KY

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Droobie

When I drop the spark all the way to half way down the engine idles higher... Should I then bring the gas lever all the way up? or is my timing off? or maybe idle screw is not set right?

Droobie, with the head I sold you you should always pull the spark lever all the way down after the engine starts and leave it there while the engine is running till you learn the nuances of adjusting the timing while driving. You will find the engine runs much better like this. Adjust the throttle to an idle speed you like with the spark like this.
I agree that worn or hard mounts will cause chatter and it will be worse in reverse. Use original style not Float-A-Motors. I also agree that you need to drive with an experienced driver to get a couple of lessons on how the Model A works.