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Old 11-01-2011, 08:20 AM   #1
Peter J
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Default Engine trans.swap

Hey Guys,
This winter I plan to swap out my engine/trans with the ones I rebuilt this summer. My question is: Should I pull both engine/trans. as a unit or engine then trans.? I have a stationary eye hook (ceiling) and a chain fall rather than a mobile engine hoist. Also replacment the same way? I plan on doing the work myself.
Thanks for your thoughts and advice,
Pete
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:39 AM   #2
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

With the body on the frame I would think it would be easier to pull each by itself, and reinstall the tranny first, then the engine.

Be sure to pull the throttle crosshaft first, and reinstall it after the engine and tranny are bolted in place.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:44 AM   #3
Aerocraft
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

I also use a fixed position chain fall and have done it both ways. If I was planning to swap the complete unit, I would take it out as one unit. You just have to place the lifting chain or straps (I prefer nylon straps) in such a position to be able to balance the unit slightly off level with the front of the engine high. It will take a bit of juggling to determine the proper position of the straps. I would replace it as a unit as well. Gar Williams
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:45 AM   #4
Peter J
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

Thanks Tom,
I was thinking that the angle I would need for pulling both would have me hoisting the whole thing too high. Then pushing the car out from under.....
The body is on the car by the way.
Pete
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:57 AM   #5
kelley's restoration
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

alot easier to do it as one unit and move the car
line up the universal with the rear drive shaft and push the engine in with a 2x4 from the front(or an old header off of a 2 door...my personal favorite)NOT ON THE PULLEY
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:00 AM   #6
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

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I would pull them separately. Less manurevering (sp) especially with the body still on hte frame. I, too, use a chain fall, but it is mounted on a track and rollers which lets me lift and roll forward at the same time.

Will be pulling and exchanging the motor in my 28 pickup this month.
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:10 AM   #7
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

Kelly brought up a good point about the front pulley. That's the most delicate part on the engine and is easily broken if it hits the frame or is pried on to install the engine.

Like Gar, I also use a nylon strap or nylon rope and loop it around the water inlet and intake manifold.

As far as lifting height, since the radiator and headlight bar will be removed, you shouldn't have to lift too high whether you remove them together or seperately.
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:31 AM   #8
d.j. moordigian
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

If it's an early 28(early front cross member), I think it's easier to seperate
when pulling. Also remove the throttle linkage from the back of the engine, so
it doesn't hit the lower fire wall .
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:48 AM   #9
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

If you have one of these pulling and replacing the engine trans as a unit is much easier. You can easily adjust the angle you need. Last time I spent more time bolting the u-joint clamshell together than I did dropping the engine in. Got mine from Mike's Afordable parts but I think all the mail order houses have the same one.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg puller.jpg (12.1 KB, 22 views)
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Old 11-01-2011, 10:00 AM   #10
Peter J
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

I was thinking that all I need is to lift it so the pan clears the x-member with the cg toward the rear. I would be using chains from the spark plug holes at least for now. Looks like the predominant opinion is lifting as a unit and watching out for the breakables.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

The engine lift contraption shown by Tincup (above) has its lift point centered on the engine weight. Slightly off the spark plug holes. When you use the loops that screw into the spark plug holes the weight is slightly lopsided and the engine tend to tilt toward the driver side. This can make it more difficlut to release from the motor mounts. In order to compensate for this offset weight - when I have to use the spark plug loops - I put a ratchet strap around a bolt in the water inlet (onthe driver side) then to my chain hoist. With the ratched strap I can adjust the tilt.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:50 AM   #12
Peter J
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

I probably would leave the manifolds on which would balance it out somewhat however, an adjustment strap sounds like a great idea.
Thanks. It looks like the jury votes for the engine/trans. as one unit however, I should still enlist someone to help. Wife maybe??
Thanks again all,
Pete
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:17 AM   #13
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Default Re: Engine trans.swap

Also if pulled seperately, don't forget about the top bellhousing shims if needed.
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