feeling stupid need ignition help

[old as my truck]

41 fire truck 239 clam shell distributer, have power to coil but no fire to plugs. condesor number recieved here were appreciated and my napa guy got them for me but they were not right this is an external condesor. can any one tell me how to test coil and or condesor

[4dFord/SC]

"41 fire truck 239 clam shell distributer, have power to coil but no fire to plugs. condesor number recieved here were appreciated and my napa guy got them for me but they were not right this is an external condesor."

For 1941, you should still have the "divers helmet" style distributor with the coil mounted on top. The IH-200 condenser is not a direct replacement for the original condenser, but works just as well. It is mounted to one of the coil mounting bolts and the pigtail is connected to the tang on the coil where the original condenser was mounted. Hope this helps.

[frederic]

I had the same problem with an engine that sat for 6 years. power to coil and none out. I rapped it with a screw drive handle and it works now. someone told me that some times a little knock will loose up what is stuck. Dont know if this is true but it worked for me.

[rotorwrench]

Not too many folks have capacitor testers these days or coil testers either for that matter. If you have a new condenser these days you have about a 1 in 3 chance that it will be up to specs and a 1 in 2 chance that it will work well enough dispite its short comings. The Echlin parts line from NAPA is still one of the better bets out there. I test my components with an old distributor with good points, a 6-volt battery, and a spark plug with high tension lead that I know works. This and enough jumper leads to insure power and ground path and you can test a condenser or a coil. The condenser is the cheepest to replace so I always try it first and keep one that I know works around to verify my test rig. If no spark, I go on to the coil also backing it up with one that I know works to verify my test.

All this will verify the parts function. Most of the old plastic case coils with iron cores use a ballast resistor in power side of the circuit to control the current draw. A person should really add one of these in if you are testing the old plastic case coils. The can type 6-volt coils generally already have the correct primary resistance so they don't need a ballast.

Kerby

[old as my truck]

thankss guy put condesor on for second time(i had jerry rigged it the first time placing lead under original condensor but want realy sure) following your lead replaced it on its own still no spark. reluctantly tapped even if gently still no spark. would test with a working one if I had one I am in mid mo by ft leanord wood. any one have one. would trade heads or 49 coil

[4dFord/SC]

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Probably not as fast a soiution as you would like, but you might want to consider sending your coil to Skip Haney for rebuilding with modern materials. In fact, you could also send him your distributor for rebuilding and timing. He's been a big help to many of us flatheaders over the years.
http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm

[flatjack9]

There is a kit made that will allow you to use a modern coil with that distributor. Might be worth a try.

[old as my truck]

flatjack source of kit??

[4dFord/SC]

Mac's sells it, as well as many other flathead parts: www.macsautoparts.com

[Paul Selfe]

Might simply be points glazed over if has sat for a while. A little 400 sand paper and wipe with a clean piece of paper, or sometimes just snapping a couple of times works for me with old point sets. Paul Selfe.