Simple Wiring Question

[Aok]

I am in the process of replacing the wires in my 31 coupe the old wires were a mess and not much help to trace. I am replacing the dash wiring and have looked at wiring diagrams (mostly working with the Les Andrews book) but am confused with the amp gauge not sure which side of the gauge the diagrams show. Does the Yellow wire go to the passenger side of the car and the yellow and black (also connected to dash light) go to the drivers side of the amp gauge with the connections facing the fire wall ?

[1931 flamingo]

Hook it up one way or the other, if it reads b/wards just reverse the wires. Don't worry, you won't smoke anything.

Paul in CT

[Aok]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Hook it up one way or the other, if it reads b/wards just reverse the wires. Don't worry, you won't smoke anything.

Paul in CT

I should nave given more information right now my generator is not working and just trying to get some work done before I get the generator repaired/replaced. The amp gauge is currently reading about 5-7 amps discharge with nothing on even have the generator and stop light switch disconnected.

[steve s]

What do you mean "with nothing on"? Is the motor running? If so, the ignition system is on, and that takes a few amps.

Steve

[Aok]

Originally Posted by steve s

What do you mean "with nothing on"? Is the motor running? If so, the ignition system is on, and that takes a few amps.

Steve

Key on not running,

[steve s]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Aok

Key on not running,

Then, what you are seeing on the ammeter is the normal ignition current through the primary circuit. IF the motor had come to rest with the points open, you would not see this discharge. If you pop the top off the distributor and open the points (watch out for spark), you will see the ammeter's discharge quit. This is normal.

I'm not sure you have a problem at all. Is something wrong when you hook it all up? At a moderate idle speed, with nothing on, the generator should be able to keep up with the ignition current and the ammeter should read ~0. The horn should discharge 5-10 amps, the brake lights a few amps, the headlights maybe 15. Going down the road, the generator should keep up with the headlights, but not horn and brakes too.

Steve

[Aok]

Thanks Steve I will check that out tomorrow but I have not been getting any reading from the amp at all been zero then took the car around the block today and it started charging then when I checked it later it was showing the discharge reading which is why I posted the original question about having the amp meter wired correctly. There has been all kinds of electrical problems so I am replacing the wires. I have the dash and cut out wires done still need to replace the lighting but have that disconnected right now for some reason it was supplied from the starter not the cutout connection.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Aok

Thanks Steve I will check that out tomorrow but I have not been getting any reading from the amp at all been zero then took the car around the block today and it started charging then when I checked it later it was showing the discharge reading which is why I posted the original question about having the amp meter wired correctly. There has been all kinds of electrical problems so I am replacing the wires. I have the dash and cut out wires done still need to replace the lighting but have that disconnected right now for some reason it was supplied from the starter not the cutout connection.

Hopefully, one of the electrical experts will chime in soon, but it sounds to me like you might have an intermittent sticking relay in your cutout. This is what drives folks to convert to one of several possible more modern options.

I don't understand your last statement; there should be just one wire coming up from the starter, and it should go up to the junction box and then on to the ammeter. If you can't sort it out or get a buddy to take a look at it, I guess I would try to contact the seller of the harness for a clarification.

Good luck!

Steve

[Tom Wesenberg]

A lot of electrical problems are loose or corroded connections. The light/horn being connected to the starter stud will throw off the amp meter reading, and the amp meter will not show a discharge when the lights are on and the generator not charging. You can check to see if the generator is charging by checking the voltage on the generator output stud while the engine is at fast idle. It should be slightly more than battery voltage with the engine off.

To check for voltage drop between the generator and battery just connect the volt meter leads to the output stud and starter terminal. Actually instead of the starter stud you should use the - battery post, but since you didn't mention a failure to crank, I can assume the battery post and cable are fine, so it's easier to just clip to the end of the cable at the starter.

[Aok]

Thanks for the help
Steve you were correct about the points being open.
Tom I moved the wire from the starter to cutout and amp meter functioned correctly. Cleaned up the old generator and connections and its working for now about 10 amps at fast idle.

[Tom Wesenberg]

10 amps is too much except for night driving. I'd move the adjustable brush up to lower the output to about 2 to 3 amps.

Better yet, an EVR takes care of all the adjustments automatically.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

10 amps is too much except for night driving. I'd move the adjustable brush up to lower the output to about 2 to 3 amps.

Better yet, an EVR takes care of all the adjustments automatically.

Until you get around to that--and after you're sure the battery is charged back up after all of your messing around--just drive with your headlights on to keep from overcharging, not a bad safety idea anyhow.