The Ford Barn

Ol' Ron · 09-09-2015, 10:51 PM

Go with Walt and use the late pump.

Macdozer · 09-20-2015, 05:25 PM

Is the oil relief plunger in the block part number 6663 and the oil relief spring in the block part # 6654 the same as the plunger and the oil relief spring in the oil pump ?

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Macdozer · 09-21-2015, 07:28 PM

Wondering if they are the same I haven't found many good pictures with part numbers of the oil pump.

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Macdozer · 09-29-2015, 09:47 AM

These are the parts from the pump that I am talking about.

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Macdozer · 10-03-2015, 09:24 PM

Just looked at my new valve springs they are longer than the originals I'm assuming that this is because they haven't been under tension.
Is this correct ?

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flatheadmurre · 10-03-2015, 11:43 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Or one is a 50 and the other is a 80 ?
Springs can be made different to and its pressure at installed height thats interesting.

Macdozer · 10-04-2015, 07:55 AM

The new springs I got from reds headers they are the stock replacement. What difference will it make using a longer valve spring?

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flatheadmurre · 10-04-2015, 09:37 AM

It depends on if it has the same tension at installed height or not.
Cant tell if its right or not unless you put it in a springtester compairing to known value or running the pump against a pressure gauge.

Macdozer · 10-04-2015, 07:49 PM

Ok I might go with a new oil pump.

But I am now asking about the new valve springs. The new ones are longer than the old ones I took out. Is this because they haven't been under tension? Are new valve springs usually longer then what you have taken out?

Macdozer · 10-05-2015, 07:22 PM

Will I have to use different valve keepers with the longer spring ?

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Binx · 10-05-2015, 07:38 PM

Macdozer, looking back to page 3 of posts, your original valve assemblies are late 8BA with shorter springs for the two-piece rotator retainers. You'll have to use
'49-'50 one-piece retainers for the longer springs.

Lonnie

GOSFAST · 10-05-2015, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Macdozer

Will I have to use different valve keepers with the longer spring ?

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Hi Mac, you need to start measuring the installed hgts with the new springs and whatever retainers/locks you have on hand.

You won't really be able to tell much by "sight", you need (reasonably) exact numbers in this area.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We work with various springs, retainers, and locks on different platforms. Occasionally we use the locks that give a .050" shorter installed hgt, and we also use some that give a .050" taller hgt. Depends mostly on the spring pkge combo and the "target" pressure!

Macdozer · 10-05-2015, 08:27 PM

It looks like with the longer springs I will need the retainer and the lock keys only. I will not need the "sleeve"
I will measure the springs I took out and the new ones I got.
Are the retainers used with the different valve assemblys all the same or are they all different?

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GOSFAST · 10-06-2015, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Macdozer

It looks like with the longer springs I will need the retainer and the lock keys only. I will not need the "sleeve"
I will measure the springs I took out and the new ones I got.
Are the retainers used with the different valve assemblys all the same or are they all different?

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Hi Mac, you need the retainers that don't use the "roto-caps", they are the 1 piece deals.

Like I mentioned above, you can alter the spring hgts/pressures by using the valve locks if needed.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of both setups, you should use the one on the left side!

Flathill · 10-09-2015, 08:14 AM

MacDozer, Did you figure out if the valve springs are OK or do you need different ones. Very interesting thread !

Macdozer · 10-11-2015, 05:42 PM

I had to go with the 1BA - 6513 valve springs. They are shorter springs. The valves that use just the retainers and the locks use longer springs. I am using the original valves and staying with the set up that was in the motor.

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Macdozer · 10-11-2015, 05:47 PM

What do most rebuilders do with the main crankshaft bearing cap studs? The studs came out with nuts.

Should I reuse or find new ones for the crankshaft bearing caps?

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Macdozer · 10-12-2015, 06:25 PM

Where would be a good place to get new cap studs / bolts for the crankshaft bearing caps?

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Bluebell · 10-12-2015, 08:10 PM

speedway will sell you some arp bolts.

Bored&Stroked · 10-13-2015, 08:51 AM

Stock Henry Studs: If you're just rebuilding a stock engine, what you have works just fine. It should not be difficult to remove the nuts - but don't damage the studs themselves. If you don't have the tools to correctly hold the stud, don't just throw it in a vice and gall it all up - have the machine shop do it.

Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block.

It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area.

09-09-2015, 10:51 PM	#161
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,855	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Go with Walt and use the late pump.

09-20-2015, 05:25 PM	#162
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Is the oil relief plunger in the block part number 6663 and the oil relief spring in the block part # 6654 the same as the plunger and the oil relief spring in the oil pump ? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

09-21-2015, 07:28 PM	#163
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Wondering if they are the same I haven't found many good pictures with part numbers of the oil pump. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

09-29-2015, 09:47 AM	#164
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild These are the parts from the pump that I am talking about. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-03-2015, 09:24 PM	#165
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Just looked at my new valve springs they are longer than the originals I'm assuming that this is because they haven't been under tension. Is this correct ? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-03-2015, 11:43 PM	#166
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Or one is a 50 and the other is a 80 ? Springs can be made different to and its pressure at installed height thats interesting.

10-04-2015, 07:55 AM	#167
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild The new springs I got from reds headers they are the stock replacement. What difference will it make using a longer valve spring? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-04-2015, 09:37 AM	#168
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild It depends on if it has the same tension at installed height or not. Cant tell if its right or not unless you put it in a springtester compairing to known value or running the pump against a pressure gauge.

10-04-2015, 07:49 PM	#169
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Ok I might go with a new oil pump. But I am now asking about the new valve springs. The new ones are longer than the old ones I took out. Is this because they haven't been under tension? Are new valve springs usually longer then what you have taken out?

10-05-2015, 07:22 PM	#170
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Will I have to use different valve keepers with the longer spring ? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-05-2015, 07:38 PM	#171
Binx Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Gloucester VA Posts: 1,042	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Macdozer, looking back to page 3 of posts, your original valve assemblies are late 8BA with shorter springs for the two-piece rotator retainers. You'll have to use '49-'50 one-piece retainers for the longer springs. Lonnie

10-05-2015, 08:27 PM	#173
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild It looks like with the longer springs I will need the retainer and the lock keys only. I will not need the "sleeve" I will measure the springs I took out and the new ones I got. Are the retainers used with the different valve assemblys all the same or are they all different? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-09-2015, 08:14 AM	#175
Flathill Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Grantham, NH Posts: 49	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild MacDozer, Did you figure out if the valve springs are OK or do you need different ones. Very interesting thread !

10-11-2015, 05:42 PM	#176
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild I had to go with the 1BA - 6513 valve springs. They are shorter springs. The valves that use just the retainers and the locks use longer springs. I am using the original valves and staying with the set up that was in the motor. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-11-2015, 05:47 PM	#177
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild What do most rebuilders do with the main crankshaft bearing cap studs? The studs came out with nuts. Should I reuse or find new ones for the crankshaft bearing caps? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-12-2015, 06:25 PM	#178
Macdozer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Central NH Posts: 192	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Where would be a good place to get new cap studs / bolts for the crankshaft bearing caps? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

10-12-2015, 08:10 PM	#179
Bluebell Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Tauranga, New Zealand Posts: 726	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild speedway will sell you some arp bolts.

10-13-2015, 08:51 AM	#180
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,062	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Stock Henry Studs: If you're just rebuilding a stock engine, what you have works just fine. It should not be difficult to remove the nuts - but don't damage the studs themselves. If you don't have the tools to correctly hold the stud, don't just throw it in a vice and gall it all up - have the machine shop do it. Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block. It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area.