1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[DavidG]

Dad250,


I use the Bob Drake reproduction front motor mounts. They are faithful reproductions except for the plating choice for the girdling steel band on the outer circumference on the top insulator and the washer faces of the bottom insulator and I doubt if anyone but me cares about such details. Like the originals, they're an upper and lower set and the special bolt inserts from the bottom up. Unless going into a super-early '32 or '35 or later front cross member, the dish-shaped large washer that comes in the bag is not used on your truck.

[cmbrucew]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Mark,
Yes Ruby has most of this stuff figured out and for sure is in control of everything except the cat (Lucy)!

Dick,
Maple production is mid Feb to early April. Very weather dependent. Almost all the maple syrup is made within 200 miles of the Great Lakes. Since we are about 10 miles south of Lake Erie, it puts us right in the maple belt. Also we have those nice lake effect snow storms too!

Still have lots of clean up to do on Model B engine parts. Like gasket surfaces and touch up work too. That rad will get a fresh coat of black after a good washing.
My crude electrical work needs some improvements to make it more servicable in the future too.

Trying to wrap up the house reno project in next few days. Down to details. Nic will be over to finish the electrical work, Lights and outside receptacles.

BTW He brought me some venison stick that he made. Just delicious! We have a recipe we have been using for 30 years, he improved it by smoking the sticks and also adding high temp cheese! I like this on a Ritz cracker with some Maple BBQ sauce! Yumm!

Reminds me, I do need to try to get out in the woods a couple hours for Archery season too.
Our first hard frost today.
Hope things are good in Ford Land.
Regards,
Chris

Chris
I found this picture of maple trees in Quebec.

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DWG32BB

The small lever on the shifter on your 32 is for reverse. The big trucks are 4 speeds and you pull that up and reverse is to the right and back.

DWG32BB,
We need some pictures of your truck! Yes I got the reverse lock out lever figured out and several other things along the way.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by Dad250

Chris - looks great ! on post 1624 it shows the motor mounts - How do the engine mounts attach to the frame with a bolt or do they slip down over a threaded pin ? Also where did you source those from ? My PU needs a set and I'm shopping !

Dad250,
I purchased the "Bob Drake" Motor mounts from Third Gen since I was getting some other things from him also.
These are a two piece rubber mount and set into a hole in the frame with the smaller portion coming up and engaging the top. A bolt supplied with the kit comes up through the assembly.

Ok So these mounts did not fit in my truck frame as built. I had to squeeze the large metal lower steel part in a vice to reshape the exterior to allow it to move into the correct position in the frame. After the engine was set on the mounts I also had to shift the engine to the left of the truck to align with the crank hole.
Not sure this is normal practice or if the larger truckhave different mounts?
Other than that it was a good up grade as the new MW engine was fitted to the truck.

(Well if you read below David G has some insite into these motoir mounts)
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Dad250,


I use the Bob Drake reproduction front motor mounts. They are faithful reproductions except for the plating choice for the girdling steel band on the outer circumference on the top insulator and the washer faces of the bottom insulator and I doubt if anyone but me cares about such details. Like the originals, they're an upper and lower set and the special bolt inserts from the bottom up. Unless going into a super-early '32 or '35 or later front cross member, the dish-shaped large washer that comes in the bag is not used on your truck.

David,
I responded to other input first then came to your response.
I have the old mounts that were in the truck. Assuming they were original they had a lot of wear on the sides of the big lower washer at the frame interference. Yes the large lower washer was there. (will try to get pictures). Does that mean a early build?? Almost looks like the large washer was gound off to fit the frame??
So Now that you mention it the upper rubber setting into/ on the frame would work just fine. ( Sometimes I forget that I worked in the rubber mount industry for 40 years, and I drew lots of mount assemblies like these for engine installations)
I will think about that. Will I take it apart and remove them??? Not sure yet? Probably not. Will ponder that. Would mean doing a lot of things and raising the engine, to get the mounts out and back in.
Do you see any issues if I leave that squished lower plate in there? engine is about 1/8 inch higher than your suggested mount install.

Ford Folks,
Well yesterday was a bust for most of the day. Things just did not click, things just did not work..... you know. So at dark thirty John supervised me retorquing the head on the MW "B" engine. Only got movement on #8 position nut at 54 ft lbs. After John left I felt it was time to take the 32 on my short road trip route for the first time with the new engine. About a 6 mile round trip. All gears various speeds, small hills to work the engine a little. Pluss some starts and stops. So have the drivers seat in place, no floor boards, unhooked the clutch pedal pull back spring, to allow it to be about right to get my big clod hopper on, and off we go!

WOW!! I must say I was Very impressed that this MW engine had the power and speed to really move the ragged ol truck down the road! If the break in of the engine continues like this I am going to be very happy! Engine ran strong, pulled the small hills in high with easy and continued power.
I had just a little water over flow from the radiator, and a drop of oil from the transmision area! Such a nice improvement! Looks foward to getting some additional miles on the truck soon.

The slippery slope: Well the pedal pivot joints are worn a lot and allowing the pedal arms to move out of position. I think I am going to take that assembly out of the truck and try to make improvements. Next step would be to whittle out a new 3/4 inch plywood front floor board. include the new bumpers and foam seal around the pedals and tighten up the floor board fit.
Just a continued improvement project as the weather is hovering around 33F and the shop is about 60F.

Sorry being long winded. Just very please so far on this Monkey Ward engine rebuild!

Also helped Grandson Nic retrive a big doe he harvested last evening!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

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Ford Folks,
What whould the recommended timing be on this B engine?
I did order some additional parts for the floor board project from Renner's Corner today.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Ford folks,
A trip to the post office, Adjusted the waterpump packing and headed towards home. About a 8 mile round trip for part of the engine break in.
I called my machine shop and let him know the engine was in the truck and running good.
https://youtu.be/yJ1QVuoPtDg

Going to make a new floor board #1 The slanted portion. I believe ghe one that was in the truck was not the original. Also this will eliminate some extra holes such as the one for the unneeded foot operated dimmer switch.

Any one have info about refurb work on the clutch and brake pedal pivot joints?

Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,

Unless the wear has progressed to the point where the combined pedal shaft and pedal bushing wear have resulted in contact and wear on the steel of the pedals themselves, normally what you will need are a new shaft pedal shaft and new bronze bushings for the two pedals.

Do your pedals have individual grease fittings or is there a single grease fitting on the end of the pedal shaft, which is the early configuration? I ask as the difference in the two different pedal shafts is significant. Tomorrow I will check if any of the needed parts are carryover Model A parts or common with their '32 passenger car/commercial vehicle counter parts.

[sugarmaker]

David,
I am done for the day in the shop but I think the grease fitting is just on the left end of the pivot shaft. Thank you for always being ready to help on these 32 truck details.
My pedal arm for the brakes has been scraping on the sheet metal componets design to help seal up the floor board. Just looking for some improvements if fairly easy, to allow the driving experience to be Near the original days Not the worn out days!
Regards,
Chris

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Ford folks,
A trip to the post office, Adjusted the waterpump packing and headed towards home. About a 8 mile round trip for part of the engine break in.
I called my machine shop and let him know the engine was in the truck and running good.
https://youtu.be/yJ1QVuoPtDg

Going to make a new floor board #1 The slanted portion. I believe ghe one that was in the truck was not the original. Also this will eliminate some extra holes such as the one for the unneeded foot operated dimmer switch.

Any one have info about refurb work on the clutch and brake pedal pivot joints?

Regards,
Chris

I guess passing over double yellow's is OK if you've got a fancy car?

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

I guess passing over double yellow's is OK if you've got a fancy car?

-
And on a hill yet!!

-

[sugarmaker]

Guys,
Yes when that car passed me I didn't think much about it. But when I previewed the video I saw the same things! That is what we dont have control of when driving a slower unit. I cant read the PA plate number. Yes double yellow and hill too!

On the timing of the B engine. I see about 5 degrees advanced with timing light at just above idle RPM. At higher RPM looks like about 15 degrees advanced. Comments??
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


As for the initial timing for your distributor, please consult the two paragraphs on that subject starting at the bottom of page 6-11.


Regarding wear in your brake and clutch pedals at the shaft that they rotate on, the shaft (B-7506) and pedal bushings (B-7526) are the same parts as those used on '32-'34 passenger car and commercial brake systems. Given that your shaft has a grease fitting on the end of the shaft and no grease fitting s on the pedals themselves, You will need the initial version which I may be able to supply if I see a photo of your existing pedal shaft.. Michael or others would have the pedal bushings.

[sugarmaker]

David,
I will begin to look for the parts for the brake and clutch pivot. Thank you for the part numbers. As always this does really help.

On a seperate issue I believe I am going to replace both floor boards in the truck. Then they may at least kind of match.
I will check out the timing information in the books.
Today I helped John a little with the brakes on his 42. A leaky line connection set us back a little.
Also had a local lift sales guy in the shop. He will give me pricing and timing on several 2 post lift systems 10K and 12K lifting units. No magic here just get out the checkbook!
The 32 started right up and ran good!
Hope things are good in Ford land!

Regards,
Chris

[flatford8]

Ya, I think some floor boards will help stop the breeze up your pant legs!.....thanks for the ride!!.......Mark

[sugarmaker]

Mark,
Yes it was a little airy on the ride. Temp was around mid 30's. Speaking of weather, we now have 31F and about a foot of new snow. Glad I got out with the 32 and put some break in miles on the new shortblock.
I may gently retorque the manifold bolts. This mainfold is not in great shape, but seems to be sealed with the copper gaskets, coated with copper sealant too.

On the floor boards: They will be whittled out of some new 3/4 inch plywood that I have laying around. Trying to decide if they should be coated/ stained or covered with varnish and look very fresh and new?? Maybe I will prototype some various coatings?

Hope things are good in the Ford Barn! I need to make my way out to my own Ford Barn through the snow today. Humm? I have new tires going on the snow plow tractor. They just happen to be at the tire shop not here!

May do some work on the worn pedal pivot joint under the floor of the 32 truck. If I get it (the support) out of the truck that will be the first step towards fixing it.

Regards,
Chris

[Pat/Ohio]

Chris,

When I replaced the floorboards in my 32 5W, I stained them with a stain that Roy Nacewics (RIP) was selling just for the boards. Probably just a good ebony stain would work. Dave R. may have a better suggestion. He has replaced several floorboards I sure.

Happy Thanksgiving to you & yours!

Pat

[DavidG]

Chris,


The wood floor boards were originally coated with a black, petroleum-based preservative. I use Minwax ebony. Tomorrow I'll send you some photos of accurate reproductions of both the #1and #2 floorboards.

[flatford8]

Chris, we had a little wet slush yesterday, it was gone by noon. My dirt road is a mess so I’m doing the “put away for the winter” service (oil change and grease) on my ‘50 today. According to some of the comments, seems like you’ll have plenty of help with your pedal pivots and floor board work. Hope you and the family enjoy the holiday.........Mark

[Mart]

I used a locally sourced ivory woodstain on my home made boards for my 32 and they came out great. DavidG mentioned that was what he used and I can second the recommendation.