1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Random pictures of a B engine:
Tuning the gasket set to fit the rear main, and around the new front one piece crank seal:




Had a little bit of trouble holding the cork seal in place while I installed the pan. Always worry about things like that because its a blind install. I did the best I could and then also used alignment dowels two places to guide the pan into the home position.


Yes its probably going to be picture overload, sorry!


Here was the gasket that I talked about earlier:


Yes a perfect fit for the pan plug:


This side engine stand adaptor really worked nice for installing the flywheel clutch and pressure plate. I need to get new grade 5 bolts and lock washers to replace these in the pressure plate. I was installing them prior to torque and one snaped off. 90 year old bolts!




Had to tune the vertical shaft where it engages the oil pump drive. About the only thing not new in this engine is the cam. Hoping the old one preforms well in the 30 mPH truck.


Off the stand and completing assembly:


John caught me doing something:


The elves came in later to complete some of the details and lay down some Ford Green. I liked the look:










Regards,
Chris

[flatford8]

You’re gonna get your first ride in before snow!........Mark

[Bob C]

That engine is looking good. Did you have the shims for the flywheel housing, they are usually missing. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8790&cat=41688

[sugarmaker]

Bob,
Your the second person that talked about shims. I did not have any. Yes missing I guess. Can you guys educate me on the need to shim the intermediate bell housing??
I did not add any shims or check anything. Just a novice here.
Thanks for the link. Ok I see they are for the top two bolts. .015 inch thick, and made to slip in place. Humm? I may be able to add them?
Ok your scaring me now! I loosened the two top bolts. I can get .005 feeler in there. Need more info!
Do I have to unbolt the rest of the bolts, now under the flywheel, and put in the .015 shims, then tighten everything back down??
Regards,
Chris

[Bob C]

The shims should be the same thickness as the compressed gasket between
the upper flywheel housing and block.

[sugarmaker]

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Bob,
That makes sense. I will see if I can make a couple shims to slip in there. Wont be .015 since the main body is bolted and torqued. Might get .005 thick in there on the two upper pads to the block.
Thanks for the tip.


Now to find some .005 shim material and whittle out a couple shims!


Adding some more corect wire loom material while the engine is out.


Realized the old engine front engine moiunts are not great. That was not a big suprize. Will try to order an new set from Third Gen. Renners corners is making me a new fuel line hose. Couldnt find anyshop in Eire that could make one. Replaced all the pressure plate bolts with grade 5.

May go look at a old used four post lift for sale near by. Just what I need another old project that needs work! Perfect!
Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

Learned something new today! I would have never known about those dang 'shims' unless I'd read this. Funny that Ford would do such a thing . . . did they come 'stock' on these engines?

[sugarmaker]

Dale,
See there is some value to this out of control thread, somehow still related to old Fords. That may be a tip for you when your doing the B engine build! Are you going to have a build thread on that project?
That gasket is for sure thin maybe it is .015?? I dont think I have a piece of gasket to measure? And I dont really plan to take the back of the bell housing off. I will measue a pice of gasket that was for the oiul pump which was not used.
Regards,
Chris

[Bob C]

This picture shows dialing in a Model A flywheel housing. Not sure how you
would do this on a B with the pan being the lower half.

[sugarmaker]

Bpb,
Thanks for this picture of the A. This sure looks like a lot of action to shim the bell housing! Wow. I heard about this process.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,

With all due respect to the Model A folks, you have a Model B engine, not a Model A engine. There are important and fundamental differences between the two and notable among those is how the engine/transmission assembly is mounted in the chassis. In a Model A chassis, the bell housing is rigidly attached to the chassis frame, but in your truck the bell housing is not where your engine/transmission assembly is attached to the chassis frame. That's at the back of the transmission suspended in a rubber-insulated plate bolted to the center cross member. (And, unlike in a Model A, suspended on rubber-isolated pads at the front.) As a result, the shims used for those top two bolts on Model As fall away in relevance as the combination of the oil pan rear face and upper flywheel housing dictate the alignment of the transmission with the flywheel.


If you had a '32 passenger car or commercial vehicle, shims would re-enter the discussion as those vehicles are equipped with engine steady rods from the center cross member to the sides of the upper flywheel housing.

[Dad250]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,

The original wiring diagram for your truck is shown on page A-15-2 of the book. It will be helpful in identifying which wire is which based on the color coding of the wires once you have removed the light switch cover at the bottom of the steering gear box (and elsewhere).

DavidG - I have a survivor 32 B Truck and it came with a new wiring harness - my question to you is what book are you referencing in your comment to Sugarmaker?

I would be interested in looking at a copy or buying one ?

Thnx Rory

[DavidG]

It's "The 1932 Ford Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide". In two volumes (one price) for ease of reading, it's 600+ pages, 900+ illustrations and photos, published by the Early Ford V8 and available on their online store (earlyfordv8.org).

Please tell us more about your '32 pickup.

I've one in final assembly as shown below.

[sugarmaker]

David,
Thanks for the jerk back to reality. The A and B engines are unique in their own ways I am sure.
So I did make two .005 shims and insert them between the intremediate bell housing and the upper back of the B engine block. Might not be nessesary as you noted. Probably wont hurt anything?




Rory,
Welcome to the Ford barn! These trucks seem to be coming out all over recently!
That is a great looking 32 pickup! We need more pictures and information. (By the way David wrote these books he is refering to and is one of the resident experts on the 32 Fords!) Great to have him help us here on the Ford barn too!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Certainly won't hurt to use the shims that you made.

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
John and I let a Pontiac in the shop today! Newer and off topic but Grandson Mike was over with is 1979 Grand Prix. Decent body car with a new engine build.


This was a trunk lock replace project. Pulling the rear seat out he found the build sheet!


The trunk lock was changed out and all were happy!


Just another day in the shop.
Regards,
Chris

[Dad250]

Originally Posted by DavidG

It's "The 1932 Ford Book, A Production Chronicle and Restoration Guide". In two volumes (one price) for ease of reading, it's 600+ pages, 900+ illustrations and photos, published by the Early Ford V8 and available on their online store (earlyfordv8.org).

Please tell us more about your '32 pickup.

I've one in final assembly as shown below.

*****
Dave -
Thanks for the info - I ordered my copy of the book tonight !

Here goes -

My 32 Ford Truck is a model B with a 4 cyl engine - it has been in my family since mid 70's - We have been told it was originally owned by a PA tree nurseryman and we are at least the 4th owners.

Dad and I drove it in the 70's and kept it garaged the entire time we have owned it. I'm semi retired now have moved it into my pole barn and have some time to dedicate towards getting it back into better shape.

My goal is reliable starting and road safe, nothing more. For starters, that means 4 new tires, radiator repair, fluids flush and change.

I pulled the radiator and sent to the local shop. While it's pulled I want to install the new wiring harness, front motor mounts, fan belt and generally give it a once over with degrease to see what else I notice.

I'm know I'm missing shocks arms, not certain of what shape the shocks themselves are in - most likely shot!

The steering and associated linkages will need gone over - as it does shimmy at times - Not really certain if its all linkage wear or a combination of flat spots on the rock hard / dry rotted tires , wheel bearing slop , lack of shocks or all of the above !

I'm wondering if these ever had a cab heater ? Mine has a small radiator inside the cab that looks like it could have been a heater ? Long since disconnected and I don't see any plugged taps off of the engine ?

I really appreciate the information everyone shares - Thanks in advance !

Rory

[sugarmaker]

Rory,
Great 32 pickup! Sounds like your on a good path to get it operational and have some fun with it.
Bring it to the 2023 V8 nationals meet and you will have a good time. You can pick us up onm the way through NW PA.
Thank you for the pictures. You can hang out here and or start your own thread which may get more views, than buried in my thread.
I hope your radiator comes out ok? I was lucky to find a slightly used one!
Youir interior looks good!

Folks,
On my 32 I decided to try ot fix the broken rivet in the cowl air vent pivot point. Wow this was more of a challange that I thought. Finally got the rivet drilled out, and will replace with a small bolt that can be removed if needed. I will need to get a new seal for that vent, but it should now function as intended.

Hope things are good in Fiord land! Thanks for checking in on me!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Rory,

Your family's Model B pickup looks to be in great shape with very few things added or subtracted since it was built. One of those is the heater, which Ford did not offer in any form during the '32 model. Many added aftermarket hot air and hot water heaters in colder climes.

Is the starter motor switch foot operated? It appears to be so, especially since the steering column bracket pull cable for the early switch is absent. That plus the larger diameter oil filler tube suggest that it was produced fairly late in the model year.

It also appears to have the original radiator cap. Dented or not, for reasons that are not especially self-evident, they are scarce and have become expensive. They often take wing when left unattended at drive-ins and car shows.

Hopefully your shock absorbers are rebuildable. There is a good source for that work when you are ready. I've some extra shock arms.

The front bumper appears to be more than up to the job.

[sugarmaker]

Rory,
With the help of folks like David and others on here I can now almost talk about these like I know a little bit. Have been drinking from a fire hose on these 32's for a year or more.
The sheet metal looks to be in really good condition! You have a real family gem! Looking forward to your moves on it. I see the truck has aftermarket turn signals. And I believe the headlights have been updated to sealed beam units?
Steering parts are still available. Some of the items like the drag link can be rebuilt with new components available. Pitman arm and the two front spindles may be available from several suppliers that may have NOS parts still available too. Just have to tear into it and see what the issues are. jack up the front on jack stands and check for slop in the steering components.
We are a little too far apart to get together often but would be nice to meet up with you at some point to compare notes.

Awe yes the elusive radiator cap! It looks good on there, take care of that jewel of the 32.

David on the starter I see the wire from the start going up to the dash in the correct area?
I like the spark plug "wires" on the center two plugs! I would do something like that.

Regards,
Chris