Replacing oil pan gasket - what else should I do?

[jmhow10]

I have a 38 ford tudor sedan that has been leaking for years. Its getting out of control and I need to replace the gaskets. I plan to try jacking up the engine first but will remove if needed. Engine is a 1940.
1) If I have to pull the engine, is it recommended to remove the grill? space seems tight
2) While I have the oil pan off or engine out are there other things I should consider doing without pulling in apart? It was fully rebuilt about 12 years ago and has less than 15K miles since.
3) I don't want to do this again - your recommendations will be appreciated on best gasket source. I am considering one from the early ford store in CA.
4) can you recommend the best source for step by step to remove the pan?

Thanks much

[hotcoupe]

I would remove the dip stick tube boss (rivets), fabricate a "nut plate", weld nut plate in position inside the oil pan. Cut a cork gasket and three 10-32 screws, and you can permanently eliminate another source for an oil leak.
Tom

[Zeke3]

This reprint has a step by step procedure to remove the oil pan in the car and other great stuff.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by hotcoupe

I would remove the dip stick tube boss (rivets), fabricate a "nut plate", weld nut plate in position inside the oil pan. Cut a cork gasket and three 10-32 screws, and you can permanently eliminate another source for an oil leak.
Tom

Ditto, sorta like this. To cure dipstick boss leaks.

[Fritz]

Search for the steps to remove the oil pan from under the car on this forum. Theres lots of info and people who have posted step by step instructions. The MOTORS manual also has good info.

As for brands of gasket, I bought a cork gasket last summer from a larger Early Ford parts retailer and it was a horrible, unusable fit. They did end up giving a full refund, so they had good customer service. I ended up buying and using a Best Gasket brand made of modern gasket materials from Third Gen Auto. And I highly recommend that route.

[DavidG]

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The trickiest part of the oil pan gasket replacement is the seal that is inserted into a groove in the rear main bearing cap. You need to thoroughly clean that groove, ensure a tight fit of the seal in the groove, especially at the ends and glue the cork or cork substitute seal in place. You are basically flying blind as to whether the seal is matching with the lip on the oil pan uniformly from end to end.

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Ditto, sorta like this. To cure dipstick boss leaks.

Can’t say enough about this stupid design.
Anything you do to improve this is going to be way
Better than Ford engineers did originally. (What a joke)

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Fritz

Search for the steps to remove the oil pan from under the car on this forum. Theres lots of info and people who have posted step by step instructions. The MOTORS manual also has good info.

As for brands of gasket, I bought a cork gasket last summer from a larger Early Ford parts retailer and it was a horrible, unusable fit. They did end up giving a full refund, so they had good customer service. I ended up buying and using a Best Gasket brand made of modern gasket materials from Third Gen Auto. And I highly recommend that route.

Best gaskets are, well, the best for sure.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by DavidG

The trickiest part of the oil pan gasket replacement is the seal that is inserted into a groove in the rear main bearing cap. You need to thoroughly clean that groove, ensure a tight fit of the seal in the groove, especially at the ends and glue the cork or cork substitute seal in place. You are basically flying blind as to whether the seal is matching with the lip on the oil pan uniformly from end to end.

Sorry, responded to the wrong thread.

[fordv8j]

If you jack the engine up; remove the fuel pump stand first, they will hit the firewall and break, don't ask how I know

[jmhow10]

Thanks for the tip. With my luck it would have happened to me too.

[jmhow10]

Ill check them out. Thanks

[Zeke3]

Be sure to check the condition of the four expansion plugs in the oil pan rail if your engine has those. You can tell if your engine has the plugs by looking for the two bulges on either side of the engine block by the pan rail. Check for signs of corrosion, bulging or leakage.

[v8fordman]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Be sure to check the condition of the four expansion plugs in the oil pan rail if your engine has those. You can tell if your engine has the plugs by looking for the two bulges on either side of the engine block by the pan rail. Check for signs of corrosion, bulging or leakage.

If it is a true '40 engine, it will have the expansion plugs. If it is a '41 style with a raised deck, it will not.

Also, as DavidG points out, the most likely place it is going to leak is at the rear main bearing cap unless you are really careful. Make sure to put the pan gasket under the cork bearing cap seal. You may have to trim this seal, so be sure to "NOT" cut it off too short. I always put silicon in the groove of the cap, "glueing the seal to the cap" and another thin coat on top of the seal where the pan will contact it. I also put silicon in the corners where the bearing cap seal meets the pan gasket. Moderation here, so the silicon should squeeze out making an excellent seal.

The front seal is a different story. You will have to decide if you want to use a rope seal or a one piece neopreme seal. Using a one piece seal will require you to take the front timing cover and pulley off as well...so be aware. You wil also have to make sure your pulley is the smooth type, without grooves. Good luck