The Ford Barn

tubman · 09-04-2016, 05:28 PM

In addition to my "Squish" problems, I still couldn't get the last leak to stop. This engine is as clean inside as I can get it. Two "Evaporust" flushes earlier this summer, each followed by a plain water flush, and the system has s been filled and drained a couple of times since then. On Friday when I did all this, I flushed it again with a commercial flushing product, followed that with a plain water flush, and then put in the "Iron-Tite" ceramic sealer. Per their instructions, I ran it up to operating temperature and ran it a a fast idle for an hour and a half. I had a leak on the lower edge of the head that would periodically stop for a minute or so, but would start leaking again. After the hour and a half was done, I drained it and opened it up (removed the thermostat housings and lower radiator hoses) and let it dry and cure for 18 hours. I refilled it yesterday and started it up, and it still leaks at the same spot, about a drip a second. I have checked the head and the block in the leak area, and everything looks good.

The heads have been surfaced and new Fel-Pro gaskets were liberally coated with "KipperKoat" and installed, and torqued to 30, 40, then 50 lbs. The engine was dry fired, run until the heads were 180 degrees on my infrared thermometer, and then shut down and allowed to sit overnight. The heads were torqued again the next morning. It still leaks.

I have posted a bunch of pictures showing the areas of the block and head where the leak occurs. The head is clearly marked, while the location on the block is pretty obvious. Anyone have any ideas?

Lawrie · 09-04-2016, 05:36 PM

Check real closely the heads and block face,I had a leak in my 99a engine,changed gaskets,changed heads finally did crack test ,first head had a small crack,second head also had a small crack,
Get a crack test kit,one of the ones that use a dye,I think they call it dye check,it showed them up straight away.both head ware cast iron ones. both heads and block must be flat.
Lawrie

40cpe · 09-04-2016, 06:51 PM

2nd picture, just about 1/16" to the right of the black arrow, I see a "sqwiggle" on the head surface. It looks like a crack, but it might be trash.

Brian · 09-04-2016, 07:04 PM

Hard to tell in those photos, but picture seven; although the deck is nowhere near clean, appears to have a slight dip in it. Also, it would appear the leak is to the outside, not into cylinders.

Years ago, I had an 81A and it had a depression/hollow spot on the deck at bottom corner by #1 cylinder, which leaked upon fitting new head gasket. My solution, which worked very well, was to remove head, clean up that hollow section REAL good with a bit of emery, fill it with Araldite, cover that area with nickel based antisieze, so the gasket didn't stick, and re-assemble it all before the Araldite set. Worked a treat!!
Araldite, for you Americans, is a brand name of a two part epoxy, you could use JB Weld, whatever...
I assume those photos are of the engine before you've cleaned it all up. No way can you consider it ready to assemble in the state it's in in those pix.
I suggest you try my method, what have you got to lose? In conjunction with your block seal treatment. It would appear you're almost there. Good luck, Brian

Ronnie · 09-04-2016, 07:15 PM

Pic's 1 And 2 appear to have an anomaly of some sort in the same spot.That straight edge you are using isn't really qualified to confirm a warp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4SzK_OjAkY

R

40cpe · 10-29-2016, 09:51 PM

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Tubman, did you get this leak resolved?

09-04-2016, 05:36 PM	#2
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,221	Re: Head Gasket Leaks Check real closely the heads and block face,I had a leak in my 99a engine,changed gaskets,changed heads finally did crack test ,first head had a small crack,second head also had a small crack, Get a crack test kit,one of the ones that use a dye,I think they call it dye check,it showed them up straight away.both head ware cast iron ones. both heads and block must be flat. Lawrie

09-04-2016, 06:51 PM	#3
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: Head Gasket Leaks 2nd picture, just about 1/16" to the right of the black arrow, I see a "sqwiggle" on the head surface. It looks like a crack, but it might be trash.

09-04-2016, 07:04 PM	#4
Brian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Masterton, New Zealand Posts: 3,835	Re: Head Gasket Leaks Hard to tell in those photos, but picture seven; although the deck is nowhere near clean, appears to have a slight dip in it. Also, it would appear the leak is to the outside, not into cylinders. Years ago, I had an 81A and it had a depression/hollow spot on the deck at bottom corner by #1 cylinder, which leaked upon fitting new head gasket. My solution, which worked very well, was to remove head, clean up that hollow section REAL good with a bit of emery, fill it with Araldite, cover that area with nickel based antisieze, so the gasket didn't stick, and re-assemble it all before the Araldite set. Worked a treat!! Araldite, for you Americans, is a brand name of a two part epoxy, you could use JB Weld, whatever... I assume those photos are of the engine before you've cleaned it all up. No way can you consider it ready to assemble in the state it's in in those pix. I suggest you try my method, what have you got to lose? In conjunction with your block seal treatment. It would appear you're almost there. Good luck, Brian __________________ Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit!

09-04-2016, 07:15 PM	#5
Ronnie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Canada Where it snows Posts: 2,058	Re: Head Gasket Leaks Pic's 1 And 2 appear to have an anomaly of some sort in the same spot.That straight edge you are using isn't really qualified to confirm a warp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4SzK_OjAkY R

10-29-2016, 09:51 PM	#6
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: Head Gasket Leaks Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Tubman, did you get this leak resolved?