Removing Automatic Transmission

[metro1]

Is it possible to remove a 2 speed automatic transmission without also pulling the engine from a 1959 Galaxie with a 292cu. in. motor. There is a steady drip of trans fluid from the front of the transmission when the motor is running. It appears to have been worked on not too long ago before I bought the car. I removed the inspection cover and looked in there while it was running and it just appears to be streaming down from "somewhere up in there".

[1930artdeco]

Should be able to-assuming it is similar to a 57 in layout underneath. Just support the tranny, remove the crossmember, unbolt and slip it out. Drain it first obviously.

Mike

[rotorwrench]

It's likely the front pump unit. It may be a bad front seal or o-ring.

[metro1]

Is there any way to see what exactly is wrong when it's pulled or do I just replace all front seals and gaskets ,reinstall and hope for the best?

[Alaska Jim]

do not forget to support the rea of the eng, so that it does not "tip" rear ward when you remove the trans. I agree with rotorwrench, probably the front pump seal for the torque converter, or the pump "o" rings. I once did have a torque converter with a crack on the hub. never could see the crack, and only leaked when the eng. was running. finally put the torque conv. in a hot water parts washer and got it hot, then the crack opened up and was easy to see. I never saw that problem before or after that one time

[Daves55Sedan]

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If the leakage is coming from the front of the converter, it is likely that the converter large o-ring seal is cracked. If it is coming from the rear, it is most likely that the front pump-converter hub seal is worn out. Some places sell these things separately.
To remove without engine removal:
Drain ATF fluid and remove ATF dipstick & bracket, then remove driveshaft.
Disconnect gear shift and passing gear links
Block up rear of engine, but leave room for removal of flex-plate bolts.
Pull up front floor covering and remove rubber plugs on transmission hump. Remove bellhousing to engine bolts.
Remove converter front inspection plate and remove flexplate-to-converter bolts. While rotating engine to get all the bolts, remove converter plugs (180 degrees apart) and drain fluid out of converter.
Put a floor jack under trans pan and remove 6 frame crossmember bolts under trans (3 on each side) Remove bolts that hold crossmember to trans extension housing. Remove crossmember.
Disconnect and remove speedo cable from extension housing.
Push tranmission back enough to clear the dogs in the back of engine out of bellhousing
Begin lowering floor jack and pull forward while lowering (slowly) to get extension housing to clear the small crossmember at the back of transmission. Once it clears, lower all the way and pull trans out from under the car.

[KULTULZ]

It will have a one piece convertor -

[metro1]

Thanks for the reply ! That's a big relief not having to pull engine. I didn't know there were access holes to get to top bolts.

[fordor41]

also remove the starter. I've fought a persistant leak in front of our Fordomatic for 2 yrs. Had trans rebuilt, still leaked, had T/C drive hub re sleeved- still leaked, sent T/C out for complete drive hub replacement- still leaked. Now is out for fluid pump front bushing replacement. hope that solves the leak. probably can't get only front pump gasket without buying a complete seal kit. can get front pump seals separately

[LOWRIDER]

If the convertor has a drain plug, drain the convertor before you pull it out of the front pump. Draining it first will allow you a better view of exactly where it's leaking. If you don't or can't drain it first it just floods the area with oil and you can't tell where the leak is coming from.