Exhaust seal idea

[Cool Hand Lurker]

I tried a new method of sealing the joint between the exhaust pipe and the manifold. I got some wood furnace door rope gasket, 3/8" diameter by 4 1/2" long and tied it into a loop. That is the right length to stretch over one of the pipe size adapters that will fit into the exhaust pipe and also into the manifold. Then I put the adapter in the pipe and clamped the pipe to the manifold in the normal manner. It made a very quiet seal and does not show at all.

[columbiA]

While it may work,I dont think its a good idea to use the adapter that shoves into the ex pipe & manifold as it will restrict the ex system a bit more.

[Peter J]

Wouldn't it soft enough to stuff into the clamp itself? I used heavy duty foil and wrapped the union before clampint it together.

[2manycars]

All that is not necessary with an Aries muffler.

[TinCup]

Excellent tip and way cheaper than a Aires muffler.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

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First, there is nothing wrong with my muffler so there is no reason to replace it with an Aries. I am just trying to deal with the joint.
I have tried in the past to seal the joint by wrapping the outside and then putting on the clamp, both with foil and with plaster-of-paris soaked fiberglass cloth. Both ways sealed for a short time, but vibration and movement loosened up the wrapping and a backfire blew it out at the seam of the clamp halves. And it looked ugly too.
Trying to stuff it into the clamp itself and holding it there while you align and tighten the clamp is not as easy as it looks and it will still end up showing at the edges of the clamp, which I personally don’t like to see.
The best place to seal it is before it gets outside the pipe. Filling the valley created between the sleeve and the pipe flare is the best place because the taper of the manifold will push firmly against the rope without gaps or loose areas where leaks could develop. And I don’t think the inner sleeve restriction would affect flow significantly until higher rpms, which I don’t get into much.
This furnace gasket is made of glass fibers woven into a rope and will stand up under high temps. I tied the ends together to make a ring so there would be no gaps. It was made small enough so that it had to be stretched to get over the sleeve so it filled the valley without being too bulky. Since it is soft, it forms to the taper well. Vibration shouldn’t affect it either. Plus, there are no exhaust leaks that could be pulled into the carb.
And it is really, really quiet!

[Mitch//pa]

sounds like a great fix for an old pipe.
thanks for the info

[jrapose]

I like it, I have a sleeve in mine now, and that seems to work just fine...has for years... I agree the Aries muffler is a fine one, but my old cheepie will work just fine until it rusts out, then I will buy an Aires steel one...no need for stainless, I think the ole steel one is going to outlive me... let the kids do it.

Joel

[Kevin - Illinois]

I took my repo off and put an Aires on. I don't see how the gasket could work at all on the repo I had...

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Kevin, the gasket is compressed down into the valley between the exhaust pipe flare and the insert so there is not a big bunch of rope stuffed between the exhaust pipe flare and the manifold flare to keep them way apart.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by columbiA

While it may work,I dont think its a good idea to use the adapter that shoves into the ex pipe & manifold as it will restrict the ex system a bit more.

You are right Mr, Columbia, and why not just shove a Potato in the exhaust, in the end, at the same time!!

Many repro pipes have had to small of flangers, and some pipes were not bent to the right angle, so what flange there was, did, and does not match the manifoold.

The best fix is to buy a good Muffler.

The next best would be reshape the flang to fit!

You need two pieces of cold roll, one for expanding the pipe, cut to a taper, to expand the Diameter, if needed!

The other piece of cold roll, shape on end to the same shape as the manifold, that will be your Anvil.

Always put the Anvils in the vice, don't try to pound them in the pipe, that won't work.

You also have to use light torch heat in shaping the flang, and you can get a perfect fit like Henery's,

Herm.