"raven" finish equals rust finish

[ericr]

this is prompted by a recent post wherein it is mentioned that the horn flange bolts were originally raven finish.

every single raven finish item I ever bought is now covered with a protective layer of rust....

[peters180a/170b]

it all depends on the person or company that does the plating. I used Danbury Plating in Conn. ,,They do industrial plating /finish. The key is when using original BOLTS and NUTS ["NOT" LOCK WASHERS] is to prep the parts first. i first start to soak them in gas and degrease them, then I wire brush them, put them into metal prep for a few hours and then wire brush them again until the gold [rust] finish is gone. I wire brush the lock washers only..... and then off to Danbury Metal finishers. Google it on your computer and look for a plater near you.I top them off with Astro dope.[a good hobby shop sells it]My bolts are going on 7 years +.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by peters180a/170b

it all depends on the person or company that does the plating. I used Danbury Plating in Conn. ,,They do industrial plating /finish. The key is when using original BOLTS and NUTS ["NOT" LOCK WASHERS] is to prep the parts first. i first start to soak them in gas and degrease them, then I wire brush them, put them into metal prep for a few hours and then wire brush them again until the gold [rust] finish is gone. I wire brush the lock washers only..... and then off to Danbury Metal finishers. Google it on your computer and look for a plater near you.I top them off with Astro dope.[a good hobby shop sells it]My bolts are going on 7 years +.

That's why they don't rust the dope seals the finish.

[Midwest Tin]

Hi,
Are there any do it your self raven plating kits available. Also has anyone tried the kit? Jim

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Midwest Tin

Hi,
Are there any do it your self raven plating kits available. Also has anyone tried the kit? Jim

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43054

[wrndln]

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Jim,
I purchase a quart of Parkerizing concentrated solution on eBay a couple years ago. I did two or three batches. I was disappointed in that some of the Parkerized bolts and nuts rusted after not too long of time. The material is manganese phosphate I think. The link below is the stuff I bought and used.
Rusty Nelson


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parkerizing-...0cb3c9&vxp=mtr

[Roadster62]

I've got a box of original from the 1930's horn bolts, they still look as good as when they were first plated. I've often wondered what type of bidding war "Fine Point" people would get into on "That Auction Site" if I listed one horns worth? Bob

[Willie Krash]

This has been discussed before. As an antique phonograph collector we simulate that finish by dropping red hat bolts in dirty, very dirty crankcase oil.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19833

[Purdy Swoft]

My stuff ain't for national judging, semi gloss black works for me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I like G-96 gun blueing, then rub it with ATF. Did my gun a year ago and still looks the same as the day I blued it. I've also done a few small car parts. Even with a clear coat, I'd rub the part with an oily rag to help keep rust away.

Don't waste your money on Birchwood Casey blueing.

[dave in australia]

Tom beat me to it. After the parts are blackened/blued, they need to be heated and then placed in oil/ATF. Not heated to anywhere near red, but about 100C/212F is enough. This will open the pores slightly and allow the oil in. When I was an electroplater, we would heat blackened parts up to around that temp in the oil, so the oil was at the same temp.