Vapor Lock Quick Recovery Tool

[Old Henry]

I've been plagued with vapor lock on this 51 Custom I'm trying to sell for a friend and, until I get Shewman's check valve flex hose I came up with this idea to get back on the road when the engine died after a short stop.

I got a short piece of soft hose.



With the inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the gas filler neck. (Doesn't look like it in this picture but it is.)



Then pushed the hose down over the filler neck.



And blew.



Works great.

I thought I'd have to really huff and puff to pressurize the tank but couldn't even get one full breath in before I couldn't blow any more in. Then held the pressure as long as I could to make sure the fuel pushed up the fuel line, through the pump, and filled the carburetor float bowl. Then, got in and started it up and drove away.

If this was my car I would immediately install an electric backup fuel pump back by the tank like I did on my 47 but it's not. Hopefully, when I get Shewman's flex hose the fuel will quit draining out of the pump and solve the problem.

[Bassman/NZ]

Dont inhale them fumes!

[WestCoast]

that works but an electric fuel pump installed the fuel line will over come that problem with a push of a button or throwing a switch, but im lazy

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by WestCoast

that works but an electric fuel pump installed the fuel line will over come that problem with a push of a button or throwing a switch, but im lazy

No doubt. That's what I did on my 47 but am not going to do on this car of a friend I'm just trying to sell and get out on the road enough with For Sale signs on to be seen.

[JSeery]

Does it have a vented cap on it?

Edit: I see we have already been down that road, but it sure acts like a vacuum build up in the tank!

[WestCoast]

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ok Old Henry, sorry , I didn't see the "for a friend" part

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Does it have a vented cap on it?

Edit: I see we have already been down that road, but it sure acts like a vacuum build up in the tank!

It definitely isn't a vacuum build up because I can pressurize the tank with this hose, push gas clear to the carburetor and fill it, the engine starts and runs until the fuel in the carb is gone then dies, even with not gas cap on at all. So, the brand new pump isn't pumping after awhile even when I've just pumped gas through it and filled it full of gas!

[ford38v8]

Henry, No pump will pull gas if there is no integrity in the fuel line. The smallest air leak will shut down the pump's draw. This will not show up as a fuel leak, either.

An electric pump in a car with a bad fuel line is just a band aid, and in fact, will pressurize the line which will then show any pinholes if present.

[flatheadmurre]

Im loosing all the details spread into different threads...
But if you simply put your tumb at the intake of the pump and it doesnt have a good suction you either have a faulty backvalve, a crack in the diaphragm or the pump being warped or not tighten enough to seal against the diaphragm.
If you have a pump with rubber backvalves they deform from the alcohol in the new gas and start working strange.If its a brand new pump just get it replaced.

[4dFord/SC]

"Well, officer, I was just trying to start my car...."

[dwaynec]

If it only runs until the fuel bowl runs dry I don't think it is a vapor lock problem. IMHO it is a pump issue either because the pump is bad or a vacuum leak.

[Blu Dice]

X 2

[Old Henry]

I have just replaced the entire fuel delivery system from the tank to the carb brand new; fuel line from tank, flex hose, fuel pump, fuel line from pump to carb.

The main characteristic of the problem that is like vapor lock is that the problem is only when warmed up. I parked it at a restaurant yesterday in the shade, 75° ambient temperature, and it still had the problem. So, all I can come up with is a bad brand new fuel pump. We'll see what Shewman's check valve flex hose does when it comes. If that doesn't work the new fuel pump will go back to C&G for another to try, unless someone knows of a better source for a fuel pump?

[expavr]

Could the problem be with the pushrod in the block that activates the pump being worn to the extent that the pump's stroke isn't long enough to provide the correct pressure to the carb? Its been a while since I tinkered with a mechanical fuel pump but as I recall if the lever in the pump just flutters instead of making a full stroke the pump won't generate enough fuel pressure to the carb.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by expavr

Could the problem be with the pushrod in the block that activates the pump being worn to the extent that the pump's stroke isn't long enough to provide the correct pressure to the carb? Its been a while since I tinkered with a mechanical fuel pump but as I recall if the lever in the pump just flutters instead of making a full stroke the pump won't generate enough fuel pressure to the carb.

I've had that suggested and have thought about it but I would think that if that was the problem it would be consistent through all circumstances, not just trying to start when warmed up. The pump works great under all other conditions at all speeds. It tests OK with plenty of pressure and flow as well. Very bewildering.

[expavr]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I've had that suggested and have thought about it but I would think that if that was the problem it would be consistent through all circumstances, not just trying to start when warmed up. The pump works great under all other conditions at all speeds. It tests OK with plenty of pressure and flow as well. Very bewildering.

Have you tried placing a wet sponge/rag on the fuel line at the low point where it breaks up the firewall? I had a similar vapor lock issue on our RV which wouldn't start or would cut off when the fuel line got hot. By trial and error I found that by placing a wet sponge on the fuel filter which was located about 1/2 way down the chassis from the tank cured the problem. The other thing I noticed is that this vapor lock phenomenon only happened when the level of the gas in the fuel tank dropped below 1/4 tank from which I concluded that the cooling effect of a larger volume of fuel somehow contributed to vapor lock free operation.

[Tinker]

Craig, You crack me up man!!!

[Richard in Florida]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

...unless someone knows of a better source for a fuel pump?

Absolutely, based 100% on wonderful personal experience.

Then and Now Automotive

www.then-now.com

Mike Casella is a genius with these old pumps, and he's not out to pay off his boat with your bill.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Craig, You crack me up man!!!

As Donald O'Conner used to say, "Make 'em Laugh!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TklrBmHo7Do

Just think how funny that looked stuck at an intersection after the light turned green alternating waiving the traffic by and blowing into my magic blue hose?

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by expavr

Have you tried placing a wet sponge/rag on the fuel line at the low point where it breaks up the firewall? I had a similar vapor lock issue on our RV which wouldn't start or would cut off when the fuel line got hot. By trial and error I found that by placing a wet sponge on the fuel filter which was located about 1/2 way down the chassis from the tank cured the problem. The other thing I noticed is that this vapor lock phenomenon only happened when the level of the gas in the fuel tank dropped below 1/4 tank from which I concluded that the cooling effect of a larger volume of fuel somehow contributed to vapor lock free operation.

I have tried driving with all fuel lines in engine compartment and fuel pump wrapped in wet towels. No difference. Also run with tank full. It was actually worse after filling up yesterday. That makes me think it's something other than vapor lock - still some kind of mechanical problem. But what?

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Just think how funny that looked stuck at an intersection after the light turned green alternating waiving the traffic by and blowing into my magic blue hose?

Hahahahahahaha

[FL&WVMIKE]

Old Henry .............................
I have done the same exact thing on my 1934 and 1935 Fords. BUT, I did not have to use a blue rubber hose. On the older cars, you can go direct to the filler hole with your mouth.
I don't think that I have ever had a vapor lock, but when the car has not been run for a long while, this makes, starting easier.
MIKE (mikeburch)

[19Fordy]

Don't smoke a cigarette right after doing that. BOOM!

[mike in tucson]

I am not sure, but, in certain locations, you probably shouldn't be seen standing by a car blowing into a brightly colored tube..... just saying. However, one of those gizmos that pressurizes a radiator that you pump like a basketball pump might be just the thing....my Snap On radiator leak tester has several adapters but I haven't matched them to a gas cap to see if they work. You might make one with a hand pump and gas cap....

[RalphG]

I wonder if this 51 Ford of yours has an intake screen on the end of the line inside the tank that causes occasional fuel starvation? I seem to recall that on an International truck. Also on a tractor where it would bubble up with air in the sediment bowl whenever the engine was under load and needed extra fuel. The partially blocked line caused the pump to draw air, probably from the sediment bowl gasket. I found the line partly blocked with plastic shavings on the tractor and that was an easy fix.

[Old Henry]

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Originally Posted by RalphG

I wonder if this 51 Ford of yours has an intake screen on the end of the line inside the tank that causes occasional fuel starvation? I seem to recall that on an International truck. Also on a tractor where it would bubble up with air in the sediment bowl whenever the engine was under load and needed extra fuel. The partially blocked line caused the pump to draw air, probably from the sediment bowl gasket. I found the line partly blocked with plastic shavings on the tractor and that was an easy fix.

I was thinking of checking inside the tank for any problems. I guess now is the time since I've done everything else. I kinda doubt that's the problem since I can blow the gas to the carburetor from the tank just fine and then it runs fine until the fuel is gone from the carburetor then dies.

[Marv]

Henry I had a problem similar to that with a 79 Bronko. To make this short, Ford put a screen on the suction tube in the tank. It was made of some form of man made material and the gasohol for lack of a better word melted it. The pump would suck it shut, but you could blow into it. When I found the problem, I through the screen away and drove it approximately another 100,000 miles without any trouble. I know your Ford did not come with one, but maybe someone installed one.

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I was thinking of checking inside the tank for any problems. I guess now is the time since I've done everything else. I kinda doubt that's the problem since I can blow the gas to the carburetor from the tank just fine and then it runs fine until the fuel is gone from the carburetor then dies.

Professor, all you need is a longer tube so you can blow into it while you are driving

[V8COOPMAN]

Racers have been using these hand-operated pressure pumps for decades to pressurize a fuel system. Quite the "cool" factor, and simplifies the need for having to explain a mouthful of blue pipe with a straight face. Available at Speedway, for one source......click the link. DD

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hand-O...Pump,7600.html

[Tinker]

I don't mean to be cheeky but, I think 99.999% of people in the world wouldn't have any incline of what you were doing (Ya could probably add a few more 9s on the end there too). Most are probably driving by thinking "is that guy huffin gas?"

Makes for a great story. Too funny.

Kinda have to agree on the pump check valve suggestions or air leak in the flex line. Sure you'll get it going again.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by RalphG

I wonder if this 51 Ford of yours has an intake screen on the end of the line inside the tank that causes occasional fuel starvation? I seem to recall that on an International truck. Also on a tractor where it would bubble up with air in the sediment bowl whenever the engine was under load and needed extra fuel. The partially blocked line caused the pump to draw air, probably from the sediment bowl gasket. I found the line partly blocked with plastic shavings on the tractor and that was an easy fix.

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I was thinking of checking inside the tank for any problems. I guess now is the time since I've done everything else. I kinda doubt that's the problem since I can blow the gas to the carburetor from the tank just fine and then it runs fine until the fuel is gone from the carburetor then dies.

I looked inside the tank and could see the end of the pickup tube and it was totally clear. In fact, the whole tank looked amazingly clean. This picture taken through a full tank of gas is not as clear as I could see it with my eyes. There is no problem with the pickup in the tank nor with the tank itself.

[1931 flamingo]

For the amount of time and probably money invested in this I would have put the elec pump on a long time ago.
If new flex hose doesn't fix it you're most likely going to have to put elec pump on anyway.
If not you're probably going to end up with a very unhappy buyer. JMO
Paul in CT

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

For the amount of time and probably money invested in this I would have put the elec pump on a long time ago.
If new flex hose doesn't fix it you're most likely going to have to put elec pump on anyway.
If not you're probably going to end up with a very unhappy buyer. JMO
Paul in CT

It seems to me that I ought to be able to get a stock mechanical pump that will pump reliably. Don't you think? I'm sure gonna try. If the "vapor lock" symptoms continue after a few more tries of that I'll give it up. It starts and runs good enough for a test drive. I'll just tell any buyer that it is very susceptible to vapor lock and he might want to consider putting an electric pump on and leave it up to him.

Any buyer that thinks he's going to buy a 63 year old car and just drive it like a modern car without continual time and money just to keep it going has no business buying it.

I had a drunk approach me a few days ago wanting to buy it to drive instead of his modern used car. I hate turning away a buyer (he didn't have the money anyway) but I told him this is not like his modern used car. This is a project that requires continual heavy maintenance and repair, even with just 63,000 miles on it. He didn't care. He said, "I'd rather work on an old car like yours than an old car like mine." He had just gotten out of prison and said he was getting a loan in a few weeks for $57,000 and he'd call me to buy it. I'm thinking he'll be sober by then and won't even remember our conversation and will wonder what the phone number is he wrote down.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by expavr

Have you tried placing a wet sponge/rag on the fuel line at the low point where it breaks up the firewall? I had a similar vapor lock issue on our RV which wouldn't start or would cut off when the fuel line got hot. By trial and error I found that by placing a wet sponge on the fuel filter which was located about 1/2 way down the chassis from the tank cured the problem. The other thing I noticed is that this vapor lock phenomenon only happened when the level of the gas in the fuel tank dropped below 1/4 tank from which I concluded that the cooling effect of a larger volume of fuel somehow contributed to vapor lock free operation.

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I have tried driving with all fuel lines in engine compartment and fuel pump wrapped in wet towels. No difference.

Tonight was different and lead me to the final accurate diagnoses of the problem. Here's the story:

I decided to take a nice evening cruise. It was dark and the temperature was 75°. I decided I was never going to turn the engine off since that had been what seemed to cause the problem. So, I headed down to the lake and drove along the lake doing 40-50 then back to town doing about the same. But, when I got into town, after sitting at a few stop lights, the engine quit.

I got out with my trusty blue hose and blew gas into the carburetor and it started right up. But, before I could drive away it died again. I did it again and this time blew some more after the engine was started to try and really prime the fuel pump. Same problem again. I sat and thought how much it seemed like vapor lock but the ambient temperature was not hot and the sun wasn't shining. And, every vapor lock I ever had in my 47 would have resolved with that little priming. But, I had no other ideas. So, I poured the cup of water I had left in my water jug on the fuel pump. Such hadn't worked before and I was sure it wasn't going to work this time. I needed more water.

Everything was closed down town except this one itsy bitsy dive café that sold gormet French fries. I took my jug in there and eventually got the girl to fill it up in her sink. She was quite bewildered why I wanted her to fill a gallon jug with water.

As I walked out of the café a nicely restored 55 Chevy pulled up behind me. How embarrassed can you get? Anyway, we had some chat about our cars and swapped vapor lock stories while I was wrapping all fuel lines and the fuel pump with paper towels from the trunk and pouring water on them. We chatted another minute, I blew into the gas tank to get gas to the carb, and it started up. I let it run while we chatted some more just to see if it would die like it always had. I found out the guy didn't live many blocks from me. He took my number and was interested in the car. Then I noticed that my engine was still running. It hadn't died like always before! I got in and drove home without further incident.

So, here's my conclusion: My problem is and has always been nothing other than stupid stupid vapor lock! But, it doesn't happen when going fast and getting more air into the engine compartment to cool it as well as more cool gas from the tank faster to cool the pump. It only happens, and has only ever happened, after slowing down and stopping at a few lights or stop signs. And it happens way more than it ever has in my 47.

So, now that I know, I can quit wondering and fussing with all of the hardware that probably has not been the problem and, the replacement of which has not seemed to make any difference. I'll just resort to the tried, tested, and proven solution of clothes pins on the tubing and half a grapefruit on the fuel pump.

[40 Deluxe]

With all the ethanol in gas today, don't inhale the fumes or you may fail the sobriety test administered by Officer Friendly when he sees you blowing into the gas tank!

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

With all the ethanol in gas today, don't inhale the fumes or you may fail the sobriety test administered by Officer Friendly when he sees you blowing into the gas tank!

I shouldn't need my blue hose any more once I get the clothes pins and grapefruit installed.

[Ianrhall]

Haven't been on here for a while and have only just read this thread
Those are just the symptoms I have with my truck, runs ok till I slow down to a stop then go to pull away then it conks out! Both times this has happened tho I have fuel at the throttle spindle.
Ian

[FireEngineMike]

All this discussion has convinced me to install an Airtex 8902 electric fuel pump with momentary contact switch even though the little driving I've done with my new to me 1940 panel delivery fire engine has not resulted in vapor lock.

[corvette8n]

Try wrapping the fuel line with several layers of aluminum foil, saw a 1950 Ford at a car show done that way, the owner said it helped with vapor lock. You can also buy a can of Dust Off and turn it upside down to freeze the lines.

[prpmmp]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Craig, You crack me up man!!!

Car Porn? Pete

[JJASON]

A clothes pin close to carb metal gas line,absorbs the heat,quick,simple,done and done.

[JJASON]

Use the spring type clothes pin,on end of metal gas line close to carb,it absorbs the heat,its simple,not rocket science

[ford38v8]

The Fordbarn has come to this?

[the cooch]

Weed is still illegal in SLC....

[Ronnie]

http://www.cruisinstyle.com/index.ph...&top_id=100026

R

[George/Maine]

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I think you should try another carb, vapor lock most of the time is the engine running to hot. The radiator may need some cleaning. In stead of blowing in tank get a small air tank they sell 2' long. Put 40lbs air into the tank from flex line and should hear bubbles. Check tank fitting

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by prpmmp

Car Porn? Pete

No, just a bit of "cornpone."


* http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=cornpone

[bgarrett]

electric pumps are only $14 and low pressure just right for a flathead. I found this thread looking for a rebuild kit for my mechanical pump. Who has the best price on a kit?

[Kahuna]

Some comedian could work wonders with this story.
And yes, 38Fordv8, this is where we are. Ha ha

[Old Henry]

I wish vapor lock was as funny when it hit in the middle of an intersection as it is talking about it and making fun of it on a forum. I was not laughing half way through an intersection and halfway out into a lane of traffic Monday. I haven't got Shewman's check valve flex hose yet. Hope it helps. Otherwise, I'm gonna quit driving it around to show it and hope it sells from my Hemmings ad, or install an electric fuel pump after spending so much time and money on everything but that. In the mean time, I've got the fuel lines and pump wrapped in an old cloth diaper and my jug of water to pour on it in preparation for my blue hose trick to try to prevent or recover if necessary.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by bgarrett

electric pumps are only $14 and low pressure just right for a flathead.

Unfortunately, the Airtex I installed on my 47 puts out up to 4 lbs. Too much for more than momentary use, which I often need more on that car. So, it also requires a pressure regulator for added expense and installation effort.

[oldford2]

[George/Maine]

I sure would like to see you blow into the tank and remove the flex line and fill a 6 oz bottle. If you can do that it maybe your pump or the fairal on end of line.

[Old Henry]

What oldford2 said.

Originally Posted by oldford2

Fuel line, flex hose, and fuel pump are all brand new. (See Post # 23)

[George/Maine]

I had a problem like yours 54 ford custom I just bought. I had just got gas and went about 1/2 mile dead. Had to get my car trailer and bring it home. The guy said he put a new fuel pump on it. So I starter looking finds a rubber gas line electric fuel pump.
I got 2 steel line as long as I could. I didn't want to mess with the fitting at tank.
Used 2 compression fittings one about 6" away from tank and the other to make line longer. I blew air to tank and tested it been fine since 2 years 3k miles.. The fuel pump was 12 volt my car is 6 volts. I also bought a used carb on the bay.

[waterboychuck]

You found a hose made in the U.S.A.? Are you sure?

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by waterboychuck

You found a hose made in the U.S.A.? Are you sure?

Yes indeed. Purosil 7030 series 3 ply silicone, good to 175 psi. (I needed the high pressure rating for my extraordinary lung capacity. ) http://www.purosil.com/product.php?c...lant_hose&id=0

[Tinker]

[George/Maine]

That blue hose is for coolant and if you used rubber hose my guess half way to tank.
You still have the original gas line. I have had problems with 2 cars with full length rubber hoes both gas problems. A vacuum cleaner in reverse not good enough to blow line out. With all the travel you do buy a 5 gallon air tank. Take a tire stem and cut off the big end then place a rubber hose over it and the other end on gas line. Turn air on slowly and hear bubbles in tank.

[bgarrett]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Unfortunately, the Airtex I installed on my 47 puts out up to 4 lbs. Too much for more than momentary use, which I often need more on that car. So, it also requires a pressure regulator for added expense and installation effort.

I would like to learn more about the pressure regulator. Brand and model please.
I hope its not the round pressure restrictor.

[Tinker]

Look at the low pressure holley brand. 1-4 lbs. even has a tap for a low pressure gauge, which is helpful.

[bgarrett]

thank you Tinker
Ebay has lots of them and this one is 1-4 pounds

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Fuel-C...457842&vxp=mtr

edit: be sure to read Amazon reviews so you can make it work right

[40cpe]

I think it is notable that:
THIS REGULATOR CAN ONLY REGULATE DOWN TO 1-4 LBS

IF YOUR CURRENT

FUEL PRESSURE IS AT 5 LBS OR ABOVE TO START WITH

IF YOU HAVE LESS THAN 5 LBS OF FUEL PRESSURE THERE IS NOT ENOUGH PRESSURE TO START WITH SO THAT THE REGULATOR CAN ADJUST DOWN

FOR EXAMPLE...THIS REGULATOR WILL NOT REGULATE 3 LBS OF PRESSURE DOWN TO 1~!!

So if you are using one of the Airtex low pressure pumps there might not be enough pressure to make this regulator work. I don't have a horse in the race, just noticed the seller's note on the auction page.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by bgarrett

I would like to learn more about the pressure regulator. Brand and model please.
I hope its not the round pressure restrictor.

This is the Holley regulator I use:



Available from Mac's here: http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_me...-npt-ford.html

Here's my installation back by the electric fuel pump:



Here's my fuel pump installation as close as I could get to the gas tank just before the regulator in the line.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I think it is notable that:
THIS REGULATOR CAN ONLY REGULATE DOWN TO 1-4 LBS

IF YOUR CURRENT

FUEL PRESSURE IS AT 5 LBS OR ABOVE TO START WITH

IF YOU HAVE LESS THAN 5 LBS OF FUEL PRESSURE THERE IS NOT ENOUGH PRESSURE TO START WITH SO THAT THE REGULATOR CAN ADJUST DOWN

FOR EXAMPLE...THIS REGULATOR WILL NOT REGULATE 3 LBS OF PRESSURE DOWN TO 1~!!

So if you are using one of the Airtex low pressure pumps there might not be enough pressure to make this regulator work. I don't have a horse in the race, just noticed the seller's note on the auction page.

That may be true for that cheap Quick Fuel brand regulator but not for the Holley that I use. The way my horse works that is in the race is this: the Airtex pump puts out up to 4 psi, which means it's usually 4 psi - too much for the carburetor float valve rated at 3½ psi. The Holley regulator does, indeed, reduce that pressure to 1 psi which is plenty to keep the flow to the carburetor under all circumstances so that I can run the electric pump continuously if I need to, which I usually have to do for a while when vapor locked, especially climbing mountains. (So as not to be confused, this is on my 47, not the 51 on which no electric pump nor regulator is installed that I'm still fighting vapor lock.)

[Barlea]

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Here's what could be causing your problem. Many of the 51 Fords were equipped with the dual diaphragm pumps which take a lot of push to operate, and sometimes what happens eventually is the eccentric on the cam wears until there is very little travel on the pushrod, and hard starting becomes no start at all. I bought a '51 sedan cheap several years ago in this condition. Run an electric full time and no problem. ..B.

[Old Henry]

Got Shewman's check valve flex hose in and installed it. No benefit whatsoever.

All that's left now is an electric fuel pump. Guess I'll bite the bullet and put one in.

[Robert Legner]

I chatted with an older gent who drove a '35 Ford way back when and related your problem "vapor lock". He said it is probably a problem of simply making the push rod that operates the fuel pump longer. Your fuel pump may not be operating correctly because the push rod is worn off.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Robert Legner

I chatted with an older gent who drove a '35 Ford way back when and related your problem "vapor lock". He said it is probably a problem of simply making the push rod that operates the fuel pump longer. Your fuel pump may not be operating correctly because the push rod is worn off.

Originally Posted by Barlea

Here's what could be causing your problem. Many of the 51 Fords were equipped with the dual diaphragm pumps which take a lot of push to operate, and sometimes what happens eventually is the eccentric on the cam wears until there is very little travel on the pushrod, and hard starting becomes no start at all. I bought a '51 sedan cheap several years ago in this condition. Run an electric full time and no problem. ..B.

I have considered the possibility of a worn push rod. The symptoms I have don't seem to be consistent with that, particularly because the symptoms are aggravated by heat. The push rod gets longer when heated rather than shorter. So, it would work better when hot rather than worse. Also, the pump works fine once it's primed and not too hot, and particularly running at high speed, which, again, doesn't seem consistent with a worn push rod. Finally, the engine only has 63,000 original miles on it. I would hope a push rod would last longer than that.

I've decided, rather than throw any more parts at the problem, (I've already thrown in a new mechanical fuel pump, new Shewman's check valve flex hose, new fuel lines from tank to flex hose and from mechanical pump to carb) I'm going to install the electric fuel pump I just got in today. I'm convinced that will fix it and would have if installed at the beginning and saved me all the time and money of all the other parts. I had tested for vapor lock the very first thing by pouring water on the fuel pump like I always had with my 47. It didn't fix it like it did the 47 so concluded that wasn't it. It wasn't the fuel line from the tank to the flex hose either. The reason the engine ran fine with a plastic tube from the fuel pump to a gas can inside the car is because the tube went from the pump just a few inches through the firewall to the can. So, it couldn't get heated up like the metal line attached to the fire wall.

[George/Maine]

I think the needle is sticking in carbv

[NYfatboy]

Originally Posted by Robert Legner

I chatted with an older gent who drove a '35 Ford way back when and related your problem "vapor lock". He said it is probably a problem of simply making the push rod that operates the fuel pump longer. Your fuel pump may not be operating correctly because the push rod is worn off.

I had a 51, and the fuel pump rod was worn. I remember something about a penny taking up the slack ?

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by NYfatboy

I had a 51, and the fuel pump rod was worn. I remember something about a penny taking up the slack ?

Here we used to cut a piece of leather from an old glove and stick it into the socket on the fuel pump lever to take up some slack. Not saying its the answer, just what we used to do.

[George/Maine]

I guess that what was under the arm I replaced pump few weeks ago I had problem wouldn't keep running the new pump said about it would take up the play I had fuel filter between carb and pump I replaced that Also

[Barlea]

If the cam lobe is worn you will have the symptoms of erratic fuel delivery but lengthening the push rod will have no effect. ..B.