Better jack?

[Old Henry]

On my road trip last weekend I had yet another flat tire that I had to change on the side of the highway. It was on the rear so my bottle jack fit under OK. The problem was that I had to squeeze under the car to place it and jack it up. Fortunately, the road was clear and dry. If it had had snow on it like some that I drove on that trip it would have been a big pain to wallow under there. On my previous road trip I had to change the front tire and my bottle jack wouldn't fit under there to lift it. Fortunately, a Good Samaritan stopped who had a screw jack with a long handle that fit under there and lifted it. I bought a scissor jack after that that is very low and fits fine. The problem with a scissor jack is that it has absolutely no power when flat or low. (I tried it last weekend and it was a total waste.)

I'm looking for the shortest screw jack with the longest handle that I can just push under the rear end to jack it up and pull it out without having to "grovel" under the car.

So far, I've found this Sterling jack but it's 7 inches tall and has only a short handle such that I'd still have to grovel under the car to use it on the rear. (At Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/Sterling-Ton-M...107847&sr=1-62)



Anyone know of a shorter screw jack with a longer handle and the source for it? Looks like I'm stuck changing tires on the side of the road no matter what I do. Might as well make it as easy as possible.

[super flat]

The scissor jacks out of the newer cars and trucks work very well. I grab them when we scrap out about 90's to present cars and trucks. The junk yard is your friend. Gary

[paul2748]

The late model scissors jack work very nicely but have a relative short handles because they lift from the side. I'm sure you can weld something on to the handles so you can get the depth you need.

[WestCoast]

scissor jack are the thing, small and lite, will easily lift almost any car, , check the mid sized cars, they usually have long handles, I buy then for $2, use them to hols up frames and axles, they don't bleed off

[1oldtimer]

I've been buying vintage scissor jacks for the cars. Hit ebay for them, they have a big foot, sturdy, compact and are heavy duty. You might need to make a handle for some if they're missing one.

[Kurt in NJ]

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I used as 1936 flip top jack for my 46 when i had it, the flip top iscurved to fit rear axle, fliped the flat area fits the front axle, long folding handle---no need to crawl under---kind of $$ to buy at retail, but at yard sales cheap

[oldford2]

"
"On my previous road trip I had to change the front tire and my bottle jack wouldn't fit under there to lift it. Fortunately, a Good Samaritan stopped who had a screw jack with a long handle that fit under there and lifted it."

Professor,
If you carry a 2x8x12 inches long, just place it in front of the flat and drive up on it. Should get you enough clearance. Keep things simple

[donald1950]

that jack looks like the one that came out of my mid 80s toyota pick up and had about a 3 foot folding crank. it was a bit of a pain to get into place with the crank but worked well.. try some wrecking yards and you might find one cheaper. i have a jack and will look and see if i have a crank and if i do i will UPS it to you for the cost of shipping...

[TJ]

To avoid crawling around on wet or muddy pavement carry a small blue tarp in your tool box or in the tool tray of your old Ford. Open it up , slide it under the car, and now you can crawl under without getting wet or dirty. You can buy the small ones(usually 8X10) for a nominal amount of money.

[Brian]

What is the original jack as supplied when new? A bumper jack? I dunno...but I always use a bumper jack in my 35, not original, but I don't need to get under the car to use.

[A bones]

I've never considered bottle jacks (except for big trucks) as portable, due to too much weight for the need of use. As 'super flat' and paul2748 said scissor jack- from the junk yard. One that has had some use will work easier than a new one. Work at developing a leverage extender (I'm certain you could create something) for the handle. In a pinch (yes it can pinch) a large box wrench may help. Always be certain to pre-lube the screw. I prefer to use Permatex anti-seize paste, it stays on and is there when you need it.

To obtain a longer reach cranker ask the salvage man if anything from a lite duty pick-up is available. I know Ford Ranger uses a long reach, but it inserts into screw jack. Not my favorite, however with heat, a vise and some sledge, you might be able to fashion a suitable hook to engage with the many scissor jacks that use a loop and hook.

Never the worry of a seal leak either.

Try to remember before you place the jack that it is far, far better to have the bad tire and jack on the high side. In other words, if you're facing uphill, sitting on the side of a crowned road, with right rear flat, you are pretty much asking the jack to raise the entire car. (I've spent a lot of years out on the highways A LOT) Consider manipulating your crippled vehicle to A. a flat level surface or B. use the hill to your advantage by repositioning the car. Also when chocking the other end I find it useful to employ my other scissor jack lying on its side. (Hey they don'i weigh much and ya never know)

[19Fordy]

Old Henry, Here's a jack that will work for you. A bit pricey,but fits under short spaces.
http://www.moal.com/02_prod/sub_05.html

[outlaw]

I would recommend that you go buy one of the newer aluminum hydraulic jacks. They are light weight & on wheels so you can roll it under your car & position the head where you want to lift & not get dirty. The handles come off for storage which makes them compact to store in your trunk. They come in several sizes & ton capacities. Every one sells them anymore even Lowes has them. You can even find them up here for under $100.00 at times. Bill

[petehoovie]

As seen from '19Fordy's' link above

[Kahuna]

http://www.heartlandamerica.com/12v-...-car-jack.html
Another reason for 12 volts

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Old Henry, Here's a jack that will work for you. A bit pricey,but fits under short spaces.
http://www.moal.com/02_prod/sub_05.html

deleted

[john in illinois]

I carry a scissor jack from Northern tool in my model A. I have used it in my shop for practice.Handy. Luckily 22,000 miles and haven't needed it on the road except to adjust a front wheel bearing.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...1750_200641750

John

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by TJ

To avoid crawling around on wet or muddy pavement carry a small blue tarp in your tool box or in the tool tray of your old Ford. Open it up , slide it under the car, and now you can crawl under without getting wet or dirty. You can buy the small ones(usually 8X10) for a nominal amount of money.

I carry cardboard for my roadside repairs. Cardboard insulates the cold ground, makes it easy to find dropped bolts, and saves the elbows and knees from the gravel. A small screw jack with a collapsible long handle and a block of wood works for me.

[Old Henry]

Thanks to everyone for all of the great ideas.

Like many that suggested a scissor jack, I, too, thought that would be the way to go after I couldn't fit my bottle jack under the front anything to change the front tire on my previous road trip. So, I went to Pep Boys and bought a nice new one since it was very low and would fit under the front. When I got the flat tire Saturday I tried it under the rear wheel. Although it fit under very nicely, the problem was that it had no mechanical advantage at its bottom limit and, no matter how hard I tried to turn the crank to crank it up, it would not turn any more as soon as the weight of the car was on it. The mechanical advantage of those scissor jacks require them to be jacked up a bit before a load is on them. That's why I went looking for a short screw jack with a long handle.

Pursuant to several suggestions, I went to the wrecking yard today and found a nice new one for less than half of what a new one would be. Unfortunately, it is the same height as my bottle jack. I still bought it since it will be much easier to operate with the long crank handle than my bottle jack from under the car. I'll keep looking for a shorter one that will really work better.

Thanks again for all of the ideas.

[petehoovie]

Capacity is 3000 lbs. Steel/aluminum construction 4 in. diameter rubber saddle pad. Lifting range: 3-1/2 in. - 14 in. Low profile and lightweight construction. Swivel ball bearing for easy positioning. Exceptional for vehicles that are low to the ground > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-3000-l...3D121934092633

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Capacity is 3000 lbs. Steel/aluminum construction 4 in. diameter rubber saddle pad. Lifting range: 3-1/2 in. - 14 in. Low profile and lightweight construction. Swivel ball bearing for easy positioning. Exceptional for vehicles that are low to the ground > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-3000-l...3D121934092633

Originally Posted by outlaw

I would recommend that you go buy one of the newer aluminum hydraulic jacks. They are light weight & on wheels so you can roll it under your car & position the head where you want to lift & not get dirty. The handles come off for storage which makes them compact to store in your trunk. They come in several sizes & ton capacities. Every one sells them anymore even Lowes has them. You can even find them up here for under $100.00 at times. Bill

I actually considered just buying a small floor jack as has been suggested. It would certainly fit under the low front axle. The down side is a couple of things: 1) The size and weight of the jack. My trunk is a fordor trunk and is pretty full up with all the stuff I carry already to be prepared for any contingency and it would be hard to fit a floor jack in. 2) The other possible problem with a small floor jack is that the handle may not reach past the back bumper and I'd still have to be laying on the ground to operate it.

I may still eventually resort to such a thing if I can't find a shorter screw jack.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

I carry cardboard for my roadside repairs. Cardboard insulates the cold ground, makes it easy to find dropped bolts, and saves the elbows and knees from the gravel. A small screw jack with a collapsible long handle and a block of wood works for me.

Originally Posted by TJ

To avoid crawling around on wet or muddy pavement carry a small blue tarp in your tool box or in the tool tray of your old Ford. Open it up , slide it under the car, and now you can crawl under without getting wet or dirty. You can buy the small ones(usually 8X10) for a nominal amount of money.

I will definitely do that. Doesn't take up much space in the trunk and is well worth it in increased comfort laying on the ground under the car.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Brian

What is the original jack as supplied when new? A bumper jack? I dunno...but I always use a bumper jack in my 35, not original, but I don't need to get under the car to use.

Now you've hit me where I feel it. My goal of a totally authentic experience would certainly dictate return to the bumper jack that came with the car and I used all through high school. I may yet do that. I do have a problem with space in my trunk that a bumper jack would take up.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by oldford2

"
"On my previous road trip I had to change the front tire and my bottle jack wouldn't fit under there to lift it. Fortunately, a Good Samaritan stopped who had a screw jack with a long handle that fit under there and lifted it."

Professor,
If you carry a 2x8x12 inches long, just place it in front of the flat and drive up on it. Should get you enough clearance. Keep things simple

Now that's my kind of thinking - simple. Wouldn't hurt to have such a block or two in the trunk for this and other possible uses.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I actually considered just buying a small floor jack as has been suggested. It would certainly fit under the low front axle. The down side is a couple of things: 1) The size and weight of the jack. My trunk is a fordor trunk and is pretty full up with all the stuff I carry already to be prepared for any contingency and it would be hard to fit a floor jack in. 2) The other possible problem with a small floor jack is that the handle may not reach past the back bumper and I'd still have to be laying on the ground to operate it.

I may still eventually resort to such a thing if I can't find a shorter screw jack.

Dimensions of the floor jack I posted:

Collapsed height (in.)
3.5
Product Height (in.)
6
Handle Length (in.)
36.25
Product Width (in.)
9.63
Product Depth (in.)
21.5


DETAILS
Lift/ Jack Type
Floor
Product Weight (lb.)
30.3 lb
Maximum lift height (in.)
14
Returnable
90-Day
Mechanism type
Hydraulic
Weight Capacity (lb.)
3000.000

[Old Henry]

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Originally Posted by petehoovie

Dimensions of the floor jack I posted:

Collapsed height (in.)
3.5
Product Height (in.)
6
Handle Length (in.)
36.25
Product Width (in.)
9.63
Product Depth (in.)
21.5


DETAILS
Lift/ Jack Type
Floor
Product Weight (lb.)
30.3 lb
Maximum lift height (in.)
14
Returnable
90-Day
Mechanism type
Hydraulic
Weight Capacity (lb.)
3000.000

Thanks. I did look closely at this one when you first posted it. 21 inches long and 9 inches wide with a 36 inch handle is pretty big for the space available in my trunk. But you got me searching and I found this little floor jack that's only 17 inches long and 6 inches wide that might work:



And the price is right at $24.00 from Home Depot. It comes with a carrying case to keep it from stirring in with everything else in the trunk.

The handle is 16 inches long, added to the 17 inch jack makes it effectively 33 inches. Unfortunately, that doesn't reach past my back bumper. Maybe a piece of pipe to slip over the handle to extend it would work.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I found this little floor jack that's only 17 inches long and 6 inches wide that might work:

That is not the bust style of jack for non-solid cement type surfaces, you would be much better off with a Racking Style jack designed for more uneven surfaces. The wide roller at the front is what you are looking for.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by JSeery

That is not the bust style of jack for non-solid cement type surfaces, you would be much better off with a Racking Style jack designed for more uneven surfaces. The wide roller at the front is what you are looking for.

That one looks pretty big. Is it? I've got to ration my trunk space pretty carefully.

[V8COOPMAN]

That little HUSKY piece of crap is prone to falling-over sideways and WILL KILL YOU!! JSeery's example or similar is the only way to go. DD

[russcc]

As already suggested by Outlaw, Harbor Frt has an inexpensive 1.5 ton, lightweight almn jack that weighs 32#s, the handle comes off, and it is small enough to stow easily, $59,99.

[JSeery]

I have several floor jacks, some of them are large, heavy and expensive. But I also have one of the Harbor Frieght alum racing jacks that I use as a portable. The photo I posted above is just a style example!

[AKCJ]

I haven't had good luck with the small cheapo floor jacks. They're often on sale at the FLAPS but you kinda get what you pay for. The two I have don't go up any more. When you make it to Fairbanks I'd be happy to give you one of my scissors jacks if needed. You are going to Fairbanks when you get to Alaska right?

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by AKCJ

You are going to Fairbanks when you get to Alaska right?

I'm afraid not. That would add another 2,000 miles and 4-5 more days to my trip. I only have a window of 10 days to get to Skagway and back so that's as far as I'll get this time. Sorry. I would surely like to have said that I made it to North Pole.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I have several floor jacks, some of them are large, heavy and expensive. But I also have one of the Harbor Frieght alum racing jacks that I use as a portable. The photo I posted above is just a style example!

Thanks for that clarification.

[CarlG]

I have had several Honda automobiles pass thru my hands over the past number of years. All of them have left my guardianship without the jacks. I probably have 4 or so of the jacks still left, that I use for a myriad of uses. One is carried in my Model A Pickup as it's only jack. These are all scissor jacks similar to the NT jack described in post #17 above.

On another note, I have a '92 Ford Explorer. Leaving from work a couple years ago, I had a flat on the front of the vehicle. No problem, I thought. The OEM jack and handle are in the vehicle. Only problem was that the jack wouldn't fit under the car with the flat. I just happened to have some lumber pieces in the back, so finally managed to get it raised somewhat. Next problem was that the jack wouldn't raise it high enough to get the inflated spare on. More lumber pieces got that solved. But you would think that the engineers at Ford would have designed a jack that would fit under the vehicle with a flat, and then raise it high enough to be able to get the spare on???

The Honda jack would have fit under OK, but would not be near hefty enough to lift that vehicle. Works just fine with my Model A though.

[Tony, NY]

Here's the answer. Be the first on your block ...
http://www.thisiswhyimbroke.com/exha...wered-car-jack

[Frank Miller]

Bumper jacks are dangerous to you and your car. I carry cardboard for two reasons. One to crawl under the car and the other is I place it on the bottom and back of my rear seat and thwrow my luggage on it so the seat is protected. I suppose rolling up a piece of scrap carpet would also serve you well. The tarp stores easiest and would serve you well but might not be as easy to crawl on.

[Bubsyouruncle]

Henry, you are my age. Call triple A

[50fordcoupeman]

Hi Henry................I carry a 1 ton floor jack that is in a case. It is about 4" high when collapsed but will lift the car high enough to change a tire. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with!

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Bubsyouruncle

Henry, you are my age. Call triple A

It's embarrassing enough to not be using a bumper jack. But to stand there while some youngster changes my tire? No way. That right there would be way too embarrassing.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 50fordcoupeman

Hi Henry................I carry a 1 ton floor jack that is in a case. It is about 4" high when collapsed but will lift the car high enough to change a tire. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with!

I went with the $25.00 Huskey 1½ ton floor jack that's only 17" long, 6" wide, and 3½" tall. Bought a 36" X ½" pipe to use for a handle that reaches beyond my bumpers. Found a nice cozy spot for it in the trunk. Tried it out by flattening a front tire to see how it worked. Worked fantastic. I don't expect to use it more than once every year of two so it will do just fine for me. The two tires I've changed in the last month are the first in 4 years. All other tires have leaked slowly enough to pump them up and head to the tire store to fix them.

I returned the too tall screw jack to the junk yard and the worthless scissor jack to Pep Boys for full refunds.

[koates]

Henry, I have owned several cheap hydraulic jacks (China) and all eventually failed with faulty, poor cylinder seals. A couple had very little use. To rely on one of these in the trunk of your car for use in a couple of years is asking for trouble. IMHO a good mechanical jack would be more reliable and will always work even if its been in the trunk for ten years. A good quality scissor jack from a jap car in the wrecking yard would be preferable to the China hydraulic rubbish. Regards, Kevin.

[outlaw]

Henry, I think that for the few times that you are going to use the jack, the Husky floor jack will last for a long time. As long as you aren't constantly trying to lift more than its rated capacity you should be fine. You won't have to get as wet, cold, & filthy if & when you might have a flat. Now is the time to buy a battery powered impact wrench to speed up the change time in miserable weather, as that's when flats seem to happen most. Bill

[A bones]

Originally Posted by koates

Henry, I have owned several cheap hydraulic jacks (China) and all eventually failed with faulty, poor cylinder seals. A couple had very little use. To rely on one of these in the trunk of your car for use in a couple of years is asking for trouble. IMHO a good mechanical jack would be more reliable and will always work even if its been in the trunk for ten years. A good quality scissor jack from a jap car in the wrecking yard would be preferable to the China hydraulic rubbish. Regards, Kevin.

I second that, and as stated earlier scissor jack wont leak. Warned against screw jack, but failed to mention that what they sell in the auto stores -(apologies to Pep Boys)- does not compare to a foreign compact OEM offering. They are low profile, will begin ascent before you hit the axle (for leverage multiplication) and use a bearing to help with torque. As 'superflat' and 'paul2748' mentioned Junk yard. Also mentioned earlier though, would be the need of a longer hook handle, but I know you can noodle that out.

Then there is the weight, for the time of use.

I wish you the best on your trip can't deny jealousy.

Hope you plan enough.

[50fordcoupeman]

I agree that a bumper jack that is original is nostalgic but there is a reason they are not used anymore. My uncle was using it on the rear of his 36 (I believe) and something went wrong. Car came down, caught the top of his knee cap and tore it out of his knee joint. Enough said.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by Old Henry

It's embarrassing enough to not be using a bumper jack. But to stand there while some youngster changes my tire? No way. That right there would be way too embarrassing.

Let me see if I understand........ some youngster changing your tire would be "way too embarrassing", yet taking your car to Jiffy Lube (link below) to have a young girl change your oil filter is somehow NOT embarrassing? DD

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...nry+jiffy+lube

[Ol' Ron]

I have a coupls of those china small Hyd jacks in my shop and have used them for years. Work great, so far.

[A bones]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I have a coupls of those china small Hyd jacks in my shop and have used them for years. Work great, so far.

In the shop.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by koates

Henry, I have owned several cheap hydraulic jacks (China) and all eventually failed with faulty, poor cylinder seals. A couple had very little use. To rely on one of these in the trunk of your car for use in a couple of years is asking for trouble. IMHO a good mechanical jack would be more reliable and will always work even if its been in the trunk for ten years. A good quality scissor jack from a jap car in the wrecking yard would be preferable to the China hydraulic rubbish. Regards, Kevin.

Originally Posted by A bones

I second that, and as stated earlier scissor jack wont leak. Warned against screw jack, but failed to mention that what they sell in the auto stores -(apologies to Pep Boys)- does not compare to a foreign compact OEM offering. They are low profile, will begin ascent before you hit the axle (for leverage multiplication) and use a bearing to help with torque. As 'superflat' and 'paul2748' mentioned Junk yard. Also mentioned earlier though, would be the need of a longer hook handle, but I know you can noodle that out.

Then there is the weight, for the time of use.

I wish you the best on your trip can't deny jealousy.

Hope you plan enough.

I did some more messing with scissor jacks today. I tried the never used one from my wife's new Toyota. Couldn't budge the crank once it had the weight of the car on it (about an inch up from totally flat). Then I tried the one from my mother-in-law's Chevy Cavalier. I was actually able to lift the car with that one (very short handle though so kind of a pain). So, I wondered why the one worked and not the other. The only difference between the two is their length. The Toyota one is 18" long and the Chevy one is only 14" long. The Toyota jack actually turns easier than the Chevy. So, it all has to do with mechanical advantage. The longer Toyota jack will lift much higher eventually but has much less (insufficient) power when just starting up than the shorter Chevy jack. But, even the scissor jack that worked was much more effort than just pushing down on the end of the 3' long pipe I bought to use for the handle of the floor jack. I may still try to find a short scissor jack with a long handle to use. I'll have to think about it. I've still got the receipt for the Husky floor jack.

Thanks again for everyone's input on this issue.

[1oldtimer]

Old post, but what did you end up getting?. I found another heavy duty scissor jack at the swap meet WITH the handle for $10. Here's the 2 I have so far.

[Old Henry]

See post #41.

[Marv]

Henry those Chinese jacks are not safe. You never know when the seal is going to blow but they usually do. My cousin bought a new 100 ton bottle jack and was jacking the rear of his LT 9000 Ford tractor to change tires maybe 5000 lb./ He jacked it up and was taking the outside dual off and the seal blew and the jack dropped the truck like the jack had been released. No hydraulic Chinese jacks for me.

[1oldtimer]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

See post #41.

Yup, completely missed it . Thanks.

[19Fordy]

Old Henry, Just for the heck of it, cut and section the jack shown in your first post.
It's a mechanical jack so I am pretty sure it could be done. Plus, it would be interesting to do. I know there will be folks who say "No" to this idea for safety reasons, but I think it could be done without worry.