Can't remove fly wheel without removing engine? 59A

[Old Ford Addict]

You can definitely get the pan off in the chassis, I’ve done it myself.
You may need to let the wishbone hang down and raise the motor off the pads an inch of two.

Like I said earlier.
Find yourself a pickup pan now to rid yourself of this problem forever.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by BillM

You did find this one I hope. There's one on the other side too but it goes in from the bottom.

BINGO! As I loosened that one last bolt the oil pan dropped down!

I had already removed the hood and disconnected the radiator in preparation for removing the engine (which I loathed to do ). Imagine my anger at myself if I had removed the whole engine to "chisel" off the oil pan only to finally discover that last bolt that was the only thing holding it on - not the sealant that I thought was "gluing" it on. (Wouldn't be the first time I've experienced such anger.)

BillM, you are my hero! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

[peewee2you]

old henry, when you clutch disc and pp in use a pilot shaft to line up correctly in the center of that flywheel... not sure if they had them then? but want to thinks so. Another bit of info, when you install the new pp make sure that you do not tighten 1 bolt all the way tight first then move on to another, this will possibly (good chance) to warp the pressure plate, you need to jump around from bolt to bolt tightening and drawing the pressure plate inward toward the flywheel and clutch disc with pilot shaft in also, so that it slowly moves foward somewhat evenly almost like torqueing a head where you move around from one nut to another slowly bringing them all to the correct torque. In my early learning stages did know this and in the end there it was clutch chatter, and after I asked? the man said did you tight the bolts yes, one at a time all the way down yes, not good probably warped the pp, pulled motor replaced pp tightened correctly wallah, no chatter, and never forgot.

[peewee2you]

after all is tight and correct, remember to remove pilot shaft...

[peewee2you]

old henry, me brain is doing overtime so just trying to help you moving forward.. another thing is that when you go to put your flywheel back on, not sure if car is on a lift or your on your back, I read your doing this with the motor in the frame. The flywheel will somehow have to be locked up so that you can get the proper torque on those flywheel bolts, because if it's not that flywheel is going to just want to spin, so you'll have to devise a plan for that, maybe someone hear on the barn can help with that scenario.

[Andy]

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I put vice grips on the ring gear and let it bottom on the block.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by peewee2you

old henry, me brain is doing overtime so just trying to help you moving forward.. another thing is that when you go to put your flywheel back on, not sure if car is on a lift or your on your back, I read your doing this with the motor in the frame. The flywheel will somehow have to be locked up so that you can get the proper torque on those flywheel bolts, because if it's not that flywheel is going to just want to spin, so you'll have to devise a plan for that, maybe someone hear on the barn can help with that scenario.

I put a 7/8 box wrench on the front crankshaft bolt head (that holds the pulley on) and let it jam against the lower radiator hoses.

[Tinker]

Never hurts to use a little blue loctite, even though you'll have safety wired it. Blue is serviceable, red loctite is not.

Be careful torquing on your engine and being under it with everything loose and hanging there.

[Mart]

If you fully tighten the flywheel with the oil pan still off, you will have better access, and you can lock the crank by either putting a hammer handle or other piece of wood between the crank counterweight and the pan rail, or a suitable sized piece of bar (socket extension) into a counterweight drilling and using that to lock the crank against the pan rail.

If the pan is on, you do what I did recently and use a long 1/2" - 9/16" ring spanner and put a long bolt in one of the flywheel cover bolt holes and a bolt into a gearbox mounting hole.

That worked for me.

Mart.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Andy

I put vice grips on the ring gear and let it bottom on the block.

Andy...As always, you have a simple, yet totally-effective bit of advice that would certainly preclude any possibility of breaking the head off the pulley bolt, along with the obligatory multi-page thread that would follow asking: "How To Remove Broken Bolt From Crankshaft". DD

[Old Henry]

Got the pan off following the procedure in the repair manual posted in my post #30 without any raising of the engine - just removing the exhaust cross-over pipe and the drag link.

Here's my fly wheel:



As you can see it is worn very unevenly, due possibly from a number of different things - substandard clutch disc, pressure plate, clutch mechanism, or even the fly wheel itself.

Here is the 10:00 to 12:00 o'clock section where the last resurfacing marks are still visible indicating no rubbing in the outside 2/3 of this area at all.



And here's a close-up of the 8:30 section showing the heat cracks.



Question is: Can this fly wheel be successfully resurfaced and saved or must it be replaced? (Started a new thread with this question.)

[Fordors]

Either your last PP had uneven finger heights, or you installed it in a poor manner. Go around the PP bolts in a star fashion, tighten all slowly until snug, then torque using same star pattern. As I mentioned before I would trust the Van Pelt PP to be a quality piece, now the ball is in your court to install it correctly.
If the flywheel can be surfaced and remove the cracks and leave enough depth of the counter-bores I would reuse it.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Fordors

Either your last PP had uneven finger heights, or you installed it in a poor manner. Go around the PP bolts in a star fashion, tighten all slowly until snug, then torque using same star pattern. As I mentioned before I would trust the Van Pelt PP to be a quality piece, now the ball is in your court to install it correctly.
If the flywheel can be surfaced and remove the cracks and leave enough depth of the counter-bores I would reuse it.

When you talk about pressure plate bolts do you mean the three that actually hold the pressure plate to the clutch mechanism or the 6 that hold that mechanism to the flywheel? VanPelt's mechanism already has the pressure plate installed and I won't have any reason to remove it. If there is a torque spec for the 6 bolts that hold the clutch mechanism to the flywheel, what is it?

[Fordors]

The pressure plate is the complete assembly and the six PP bolts are fastening it to the flywheel. The other three bolts you refer to are securing the yokes to the clutch cover, which is the sheet metal stamped portion of the PP. Step on the clutch pedal and you depress the fingers. Those fingers (levers) pivot on the yokes resulting in the pressure ring releasing it's grip on the disc. Naturally the springs are there to load the disc and propel the vehicle and there are a number of other small pieces to complete the PP assembly.
As I've tried to mention torque is not your only concern or you could wind up doing this again. Tighten the PP bolts slowly and do not tighten a pair and go around to the next pair and so forth. Walk them all down slowly, snug 'em up and them torque to 22 ft.lbs. for grade 5, or 26 ft.lbs. if grade 8. Those values are for 5/16 bolts, which BTW should have a short shank under the head. Because of the shank the flywheel has been counter-bored for the fasteners, and if the f/w was refaced make sure the bolts do not bottom out before they tighten the PP to the 'wheel. Counter-bores too shallow? Do not consider using bolts with no shank, you might get away with it but it is poor practice.

[Old Henry]

Well, I picked up my flywheel from Strasberg this morning. He said it was, indeed, quite a ways off from true to the crank flange. He surfaced it on an arbor duplicating the crank flange so the surface is now true to the rear surface that attaches to the crank. He also found that the ring gear was not securely attached to the wheel. He fixed that too. He then mounted the new pressure plate assembly and balanced the entire thing, marking to match the two when installing the pressure plate assembly after installing and torqueing the wheel to the crank.

Certainly the flywheel being so off could have been a big part if not the main cause of the clutch chatter. Hopefully with it all trued and new clutch disc, pressure plate assembly, and release (throw out) bearing I'll have no more chatter.


Thanks to all for your help.

[1937pickup]

One thing I have not seen mentioned, have the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc balanced as a unit. It will pay big dividends in smooth running.

[B-O-B]

Re: Can't remove fly wheel without removing engine? 59A
Well, I picked up my flywheel from Strasberg this morning. He said it was, indeed, quite a ways off from true to the crank flange. He surfaced it on an arbor duplicating the crank flange so the surface is now true to the rear surface that attaches to the crank. He also found that the ring gear was not securely attached to the wheel. He fixed that too. He then mounted the new pressure plate assembly and balanced the entire thing, marking to match the two when installing the pressure plate assembly after installing and torqueing the wheel to the crank flange.

[russcc]

Suggest in the future getting your clutches from Fort Wayne clutch. They rebuild original Ford clutches and usually have what you need on the shelve. Sent my 9" to them, and it came back in less than a week. Others on the forum will also likely comment, especially if the clutch is not made in USA.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 1937pickup

One thing I have not seen mentioned, have the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc balanced as a unit. It will pay big dividends in smooth running.

Yes, that is what Mac VanPelt suggested when I ordered the clutch from him. It was also suggested by JWL in post #23. And that's what I did as reported in post # 76.