The Ford Barn

36coupe · 07-26-2014, 12:24 PM

I bought a 38 last night
67000 original miles painted once in 72
Made about 50 miles when she lost power
Thought it was the fuel pump
Changed that and and it ran great until I got about 5 miles and lost power again
Idel okay but sputters and hesitates over 30

Any ideas
Ill post Picts

36coupe · 07-26-2014, 12:28 PM

Tinker · 07-26-2014, 12:35 PM

Nice 38. Skip Coil and a tested condenser time.

oldford2 · 07-26-2014, 12:41 PM

Do the easy things first, disassemble and clean carb innards. If you see sediment in the carb bowl it means dirt from the tank or line. Change to another coil and condenser. Then try. How hot was it when this happened? I thought Nova Scotia was up by the North Pole.

John

ford38v8 · 07-26-2014, 12:47 PM

Lindsay, Contact Skip Haney in Florida for a rebuilt coil. His rebuilts are better than original, and are show quality as well. The cause of your breakdown was the old coil heating up and shorting. Once it cooled down sufficiently, it fired up for you again till it heated up again. Don't even think about any other coil, use Haneys. He will advise on the correct condenser to use with his coils also.

Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads

40cpe · 07-26-2014, 12:48 PM

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That is a nice looking car.

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but it could be ignition, too. When it starts to run badly, stop engine, pull a spark plug wire and hold the connection about 1/4 inch from the plug connection. Crank engine over with ignition switch on and you should see a strong spark. If weak and yellow you could have ignition problems.

If ignition seems OK, disconnect fuel line from carburetor, place fuel line in a container of some sort and crank engine over WITH IGNITION OFF. You should see strong pulses of gas as the engine turns over. Weak dribbles indicate fuel problems. Since the pump is new, consider stopped up fuel lines (likely if the car has set up for long periods), leaks allowing air to be pulled into the pump instead of fuel, or a worn fuel pump push rod.

Give us more information if these suggestions don't point you to a cause.

JM 35 Sedan · 07-26-2014, 02:50 PM

Wow! A nice looking survivor. I think the coil, condensor and gas delivery suggestions already made are your best things to check first.
I would not leave my driveway with any of my old Fords without a coil rewound by Skip Haney. No matter how nice those original coils look, internally the insulations used back in the day have deteriorated. Once expansion occures from the effects of heating, windings will begin shorting out.

41panelmark · 07-26-2014, 04:46 PM

Nice one!!!

36coupe · 07-26-2014, 05:35 PM

I will have to do the coils
It will sit and idel for ever and rev up with no load but does want to go very far.
Seems like fuel. I borrowed a pump diaphram and it didn't change. The diaphram in the pump looked new.

I flushed the cooling system and and engine. I was hesitant about the stirring up oil sludge but did did 2 changes in a row, both came out dirty and now looks clean. The coolant was foamy and brown.

I have to adjust the brakes better.

There is a great story with the car which I will tell later!
Thanks

36coupe · 07-26-2014, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldford2

Do the easy things first, disassemble and clean carb innards. If you see sediment in the carb bowl it means dirt from the tank or line. Change to another coil and condenser. Then try. How hot was it when this happened? I thought Nova Scotia was up by the North Pole.

John

I'll pull the carb and check it.
The car was running cool.
Found temp sender laying on top the head not hooked up.
We are having a hot summer which is totally bearable compared to points south

36coupe · 07-26-2014, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40cpe

That is a nice looking car.

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but it could be ignition, too. When it starts to run badly, stop engine, pull a spark plug wire and hold the connection about 1/4 inch from the plug connection. Crank engine over with ignition switch on and you should see a strong spark. If weak and yellow you could have ignition problems.

If ignition seems OK, disconnect fuel line from carburetor, place fuel line in a container of some sort and crank engine over WITH IGNITION OFF. You should see strong pulses of gas as the engine turns over. Weak dribbles indicate fuel problems. Since the pump is new, consider stopped up fuel lines (likely if the car has set up for long periods), leaks allowing air to be pulled into the pump instead of fuel, or a worn fuel pump push rod.

Give us more information if these suggestions don't point you to a cause.

I blew air back to the tank and watched the pump pull fuel back to glass bowl.
It almost seems like it is missing at times.
A couple of times I barely hit the starter and it fired right up but not most times.

BABAR40 · 07-27-2014, 08:21 AM

Congratulations on a nice sedan! Fordbarn to the rescue!

felix37 · 07-27-2014, 10:29 AM

Nice find! Drive and enjoy it!

Gumpy · 07-27-2014, 10:48 AM

Nice looking car, looks like it will be a great driver!

Steves46 · 07-27-2014, 10:52 AM

That's a real beauty! I'm sure you will be able to resolve your issue soon.

36coupe · 07-27-2014, 11:41 AM

I stripped down the carb and it was fine. I am running a little rich.
Do I lower the float to lean out the carb some?
I went 5 miles and it worked great and then started to run poorly and stalled. I had to wait a while for it to cool down and then made it home. Thought the problem was the choke coming on a little bit causing it to run rich.
The next drive it stalled in the neighbours driveway and and we checked the voltage at the coil and it was 3 volt and no spark rolling over.
I still think I have a coil overheating problem and a minor problem of the carb running rich.

40cpe · 07-27-2014, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 36coupe

\ voltage at the coil and it was 3 volt and no spark rolling over.

I think you have found your problem

36coupe · 07-27-2014, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I think you have found your problem

What would cause only 3 volts at coil?
I'm a little baffled.

ford38v8 · 07-27-2014, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 36coupe

What would cause only 3 volts at coil?
I'm a little baffled.

Lindsay, 3 to 4 Volts at the coil is correct. You have a resistor up over the steering column on the dash. The function of that resistor is to reduce the voltage going to your coil. Bite the bullet and get a rebuilt coil from Skip.

One thing at a time. Don't mess with the carburetor, it has nothing to do with your coil problem and will only confound diagnosis for those of us who are trying to help you.

supereal · 07-27-2014, 03:58 PM

All old cars, particularly those which have set for a very long time, need a fuel filter in the line as close to the tank as possible. Today's gas is a good solvent, and will loosen sediment and varnish which will impact the whole fuel system. Inline filters are not expensive, or hard to install. Install barb connectors on the cut ends of the fuel line to prevent fuel or air leaks. The filters have expanded ends for the same purpose. Carry an extra in the car at all times if the one in the fuel line clogs. Most "barn find" cars will go thru several filters until the system is free. The alternative is to remove the tank and have it cleaned, which is a big job.

07-26-2014, 12:24 PM	#1
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 863	My new 1938 Tudor I bought a 38 last night 67000 original miles painted once in 72 Made about 50 miles when she lost power Thought it was the fuel pump Changed that and and it ran great until I got about 5 miles and lost power again Idel okay but sputters and hesitates over 30 Any ideas Ill post Picts

07-26-2014, 12:28 PM	#2
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 863	Re: My new 1938 Tudor

07-26-2014, 12:35 PM	#3
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Nice 38. Skip Coil and a tested condenser time.

07-26-2014, 12:41 PM	#4
oldford2 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: pittsfield, MA Posts: 2,086	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Do the easy things first, disassemble and clean carb innards. If you see sediment in the carb bowl it means dirt from the tank or line. Change to another coil and condenser. Then try. How hot was it when this happened? I thought Nova Scotia was up by the North Pole. John

07-26-2014, 12:47 PM	#5
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,635	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Lindsay, Contact Skip Haney in Florida for a rebuilt coil. His rebuilts are better than original, and are show quality as well. The cause of your breakdown was the old coil heating up and shorting. Once it cooled down sufficiently, it fired up for you again till it heated up again. Don't even think about any other coil, use Haneys. He will advise on the correct condenser to use with his coils also. Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads __________________ Alan

07-26-2014, 12:48 PM	#6
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) That is a nice looking car. It sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but it could be ignition, too. When it starts to run badly, stop engine, pull a spark plug wire and hold the connection about 1/4 inch from the plug connection. Crank engine over with ignition switch on and you should see a strong spark. If weak and yellow you could have ignition problems. If ignition seems OK, disconnect fuel line from carburetor, place fuel line in a container of some sort and crank engine over WITH IGNITION OFF. You should see strong pulses of gas as the engine turns over. Weak dribbles indicate fuel problems. Since the pump is new, consider stopped up fuel lines (likely if the car has set up for long periods), leaks allowing air to be pulled into the pump instead of fuel, or a worn fuel pump push rod. Give us more information if these suggestions don't point you to a cause.

07-26-2014, 02:50 PM	#7
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Wow! A nice looking survivor. I think the coil, condensor and gas delivery suggestions already made are your best things to check first. I would not leave my driveway with any of my old Fords without a coil rewound by Skip Haney. No matter how nice those original coils look, internally the insulations used back in the day have deteriorated. Once expansion occures from the effects of heating, windings will begin shorting out. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

07-26-2014, 04:46 PM	#8
41panelmark Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Colorado Posts: 1,264	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Nice one!!!

07-26-2014, 05:35 PM	#9
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 863	Re: My new 1938 Tudor I will have to do the coils It will sit and idel for ever and rev up with no load but does want to go very far. Seems like fuel. I borrowed a pump diaphram and it didn't change. The diaphram in the pump looked new. I flushed the cooling system and and engine. I was hesitant about the stirring up oil sludge but did did 2 changes in a row, both came out dirty and now looks clean. The coolant was foamy and brown. I have to adjust the brakes better. There is a great story with the car which I will tell later! Thanks Last edited by 36coupe; 07-26-2014 at 06:11 PM.

07-27-2014, 08:21 AM	#12
BABAR40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palm Harbor, Fl Posts: 137	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Congratulations on a nice sedan! Fordbarn to the rescue!

07-27-2014, 10:29 AM	#13
felix37 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 1,093	Re: My new 1938 Tudor Nice find! Drive and enjoy it!

07-27-2014, 10:48 AM	#14
Gumpy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sf bay area Posts: 1,464	Re: My new 1938 Tudor *Nice looking car, looks like it will be a great driver!* __________________ "I believe God is managing affairs and that He doesn't need any advice from me. With God in Charge, I believe everything will work out for the best in the end. So what is there to worry about". Quote by Henry Ford

07-27-2014, 10:52 AM	#15
Steves46 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lithia, FL Posts: 1,050	Re: My new 1938 Tudor That's a real beauty! I'm sure you will be able to resolve your issue soon. __________________ If it aint broke, don't fix it!

07-27-2014, 11:41 AM	#16
36coupe Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Eastcoast Posts: 863	Re: My new 1938 Tudor I stripped down the carb and it was fine. I am running a little rich. Do I lower the float to lean out the carb some? I went 5 miles and it worked great and then started to run poorly and stalled. I had to wait a while for it to cool down and then made it home. Thought the problem was the choke coming on a little bit causing it to run rich. The next drive it stalled in the neighbours driveway and and we checked the voltage at the coil and it was 3 volt and no spark rolling over. I still think I have a coil overheating problem and a minor problem of the carb running rich.

07-27-2014, 03:58 PM	#20
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: My new 1938 Tudor All old cars, particularly those which have set for a very long time, need a fuel filter in the line as close to the tank as possible. Today's gas is a good solvent, and will loosen sediment and varnish which will impact the whole fuel system. Inline filters are not expensive, or hard to install. Install barb connectors on the cut ends of the fuel line to prevent fuel or air leaks. The filters have expanded ends for the same purpose. Carry an extra in the car at all times if the one in the fuel line clogs. Most "barn find" cars will go thru several filters until the system is free. The alternative is to remove the tank and have it cleaned, which is a big job.