32 Coupe with F-100 steering conversion

[Andy]

I finally finished my conversion to a F-100 steering box. I had an earlier thread but it got into a discusion about brazing. The box went in with no problems at all. All the holes lined up and the flange fit the frame perfectly. It actually fits better than the stock box. I have more header clearance. The column drop had to move in about 1/8" is all. I am delighted with the way it drives. It used to be hard to come back if it started to get to the side of a crowned road. No more. The light switch works and the column lock works. Now on to the 3.25 rear end project. Then the Lincoln brakes and then the 12V conversion.

[2935ford]

Nice work and it looks good!

[machine girl]

Very nice job, we sell a lot of model A F100 conversions,and a few 32/34 kits.you went the right way with the model A sq. sector shaft. modelaonly.net

[waterboychuck]

Very nice work Andy.

[Mart]

Nice work, Andy, a very neat, unobtrusive job that gives a real world benefit to the driving experience.

Mart.

[HotRodmicky]

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Looks good!
Why did you use a model a steering arm?

[Andy]

The A arm allowed me to leave the frame unmodified. The stock F100 arm is bulky and would not clear the stock 32 flange bolts. The shaft is also too big in diameter. Cutting the shaft square also reduced it so it will go thru the stock frame hole and the A arm clears the bolts. I wanted to not cut anything on the car. I can put the ginnie box back in and nobody can ever tell it was different.

[jimTN]

Great work. Looks as good or better than the secret method that noone would post pictures of for several years.

[Andy]

Thanks for all the nice comments!! It looks so stock I doubt few will recognize it is not stock.

[HotRodmicky]

Yeah that makes sense!
Good soloution

[Capn John]

What type of HEADER are you using??

[Andy]

The headers are the cheap ones from Speedway. The only problem was the tube by the steering box. I tried a couple of ideas but ended up tight and back and down. With the F100 box, there might be room for a forward and up route. That would better follow the direction of the port.
I used a right side stock manifold for a weld jig

[Chisel]

What is the length of the pitman arm [ hole center to center] and the number of wheel turns lock to lock?

[Andy]

The arm is stock 32 length. 5 1/2"
The box is 18 to 1 but hits the spindle stops both ways. I have 3 3/4 turns. The box will turn 4 1/2. I might try a shorter arm.
The Model A arm was shortened and a bung welded on instead of the ball.

[hardtimes]

Hey Andy,
Nice pics and nice job !
I also put an F100 on my A roadster. Best improvement for the $ !

[Kahuna]

Andy,
Is there more or less clearance on the header by the box with the F100 parts?
Thanks
Jim

[Andy]

I have more clearance. The shaft is at the same distance in from the frame but the box is smaller on the wheel end. It has the big bearing at the bottom so the top is less bulky. I had to use header bolts before but it looks like I can use std bolts now. They were sure easier to put in.
I put on a new flange so the box is closer to the frame than if I had used the wedge.

[Chisel]

Originally Posted by Andy

The arm is stock 32 length. 5 1/2"
The box is 18 to 1 but hits the spindle stops both ways. I have 3 3/4 turns. The box will turn 4 1/2. I might try a shorter arm.
The Model A arm was shortened and a bung welded on instead of the ball.

Thanks for the reply.

[motordr]

Nice! Don't know how I missed this thread when it first came out. Thanks Andy!

[corvette8n]

What year is the F100 box?

[TJ]

Looks like the "center dump" headers may work better in this situation.

[Andy]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

What year is the F100 box?

The box is a 56. I have a 60 and it would work just as well since the flange is removed. The only other difference is the sector shaft is very slightly shorter on the later boxes.

[Andy]

Originally Posted by TJ

Looks like the "center dump" headers may work better in this situation.

The headers are left over from the stock box. The #8 tube really did not want to go forward with the stock box. The F-100 does have more clearance.

[Fortunateson]

I didn't see the earlier thread so what exactly did you do?
If a new flange was used did you weld or braze? Is it an :A" pitman arm or a stock '32? I have a F-1 (early 50' box I was going to use on my '32. Why should I change? Benefits? Link to your earlier thread/ Your work looks extremely good by the way/

[rotorwrench]

The later F-100 box is probably easier to get parts for and likely just a tad bit more robust than the earlier F-1. Both are good boxes though when compared to a the old gear tooth type sectors of the earlier era.

Cast iron responds very well to brazing and the strength factor is at least as good and the original design casting was. Less chance of cracking during cool down without a complete preheat.

[Andy]

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Originally Posted by Fortunateson

I didn't see the earlier thread so what exactly did you do?
If a new flange was used did you weld or braze? Is it an :A" pitman arm or a stock '32? I have a F-1 (early 50' box I was going to use on my '32. Why should I change? Benefits? Link to your earlier thread/ Your work looks extremely good by the way/

I brazed it on. I made a fixture to position it and I had bored the flange to the right angle. The braze filled the gap.
It is an A arm.
The F-1 box has the steering shaft on the bottom and that makes the wheel tilt towards the windshield. There is not much clearance there or around my tummy.
The other thread was on the HAMB.

[Fortunateson]

Thanks, but why should I swap from the original '32? Where was the new flange from; homemade or commercial productz? Benefits?

[Andy]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

Thanks, but why should I swap from the original '32? Where was the new flange from; homemade or commercial productz? Benefits?

The car steers much easier. The original box is quick so the steering is heavy and they are bit hard to be comfortable with at highway speeds.
The flange is homemade. It allows the holes to be marked and drilled after brazing. It can also be left a bit oversize and trimed to shape as the last step.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

Thanks, but why should I swap from the original '32? Where was the new flange from; homemade or commercial productz? Benefits?

The original Ford boxes were a poor design and they also wear fairly quickly. The F1 and then the F100 switch is about as old as when the first F1/F100s were available! They are a much improved design and a great upgrade if you drive your car/truck a lot.

[Fortunateson]

Thanks for the answers. I'll have to find the HAMB thread to find the design of the flange, where/hot to cut off the original flange, and any other little details. I'm a long ways off to even start the build on my 5w but I like to get my ducks in a row; hoarding ducks can be a bugger and they are tool small to lasso!

[JSeery]

The Ford Steering, Service, Repair & Modification booklet by Vern Tardel has information on modifying the steering boxes.

[quickchange34]

You did a nice job on the box. The 53 to 56 box works great on 32 to 34. You can press the worm off the F100 shaft and install it on the early shaft.