32 Coupe with F-100 steering conversion

[TJ]

Looks like the "center dump" headers may work better in this situation.

[Andy]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

What year is the F100 box?

The box is a 56. I have a 60 and it would work just as well since the flange is removed. The only other difference is the sector shaft is very slightly shorter on the later boxes.

[Andy]

Originally Posted by TJ

Looks like the "center dump" headers may work better in this situation.

The headers are left over from the stock box. The #8 tube really did not want to go forward with the stock box. The F-100 does have more clearance.

[Fortunateson]

I didn't see the earlier thread so what exactly did you do?
If a new flange was used did you weld or braze? Is it an :A" pitman arm or a stock '32? I have a F-1 (early 50' box I was going to use on my '32. Why should I change? Benefits? Link to your earlier thread/ Your work looks extremely good by the way/

[rotorwrench]

The later F-100 box is probably easier to get parts for and likely just a tad bit more robust than the earlier F-1. Both are good boxes though when compared to a the old gear tooth type sectors of the earlier era.

Cast iron responds very well to brazing and the strength factor is at least as good and the original design casting was. Less chance of cracking during cool down without a complete preheat.

[Andy]

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Originally Posted by Fortunateson

I didn't see the earlier thread so what exactly did you do?
If a new flange was used did you weld or braze? Is it an :A" pitman arm or a stock '32? I have a F-1 (early 50' box I was going to use on my '32. Why should I change? Benefits? Link to your earlier thread/ Your work looks extremely good by the way/

I brazed it on. I made a fixture to position it and I had bored the flange to the right angle. The braze filled the gap.
It is an A arm.
The F-1 box has the steering shaft on the bottom and that makes the wheel tilt towards the windshield. There is not much clearance there or around my tummy.
The other thread was on the HAMB.

[Fortunateson]

Thanks, but why should I swap from the original '32? Where was the new flange from; homemade or commercial productz? Benefits?

[Andy]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

Thanks, but why should I swap from the original '32? Where was the new flange from; homemade or commercial productz? Benefits?

The car steers much easier. The original box is quick so the steering is heavy and they are bit hard to be comfortable with at highway speeds.
The flange is homemade. It allows the holes to be marked and drilled after brazing. It can also be left a bit oversize and trimed to shape as the last step.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

Thanks, but why should I swap from the original '32? Where was the new flange from; homemade or commercial productz? Benefits?

The original Ford boxes were a poor design and they also wear fairly quickly. The F1 and then the F100 switch is about as old as when the first F1/F100s were available! They are a much improved design and a great upgrade if you drive your car/truck a lot.

[Fortunateson]

Thanks for the answers. I'll have to find the HAMB thread to find the design of the flange, where/hot to cut off the original flange, and any other little details. I'm a long ways off to even start the build on my 5w but I like to get my ducks in a row; hoarding ducks can be a bugger and they are tool small to lasso!

[JSeery]

The Ford Steering, Service, Repair & Modification booklet by Vern Tardel has information on modifying the steering boxes.

[quickchange34]

You did a nice job on the box. The 53 to 56 box works great on 32 to 34. You can press the worm off the F100 shaft and install it on the early shaft.