The Ford Barn

jwaldrich · 03-29-2015, 05:04 PM

The pin holding the crankshaft fan belt pulley in place sheared. How weird is that. My thought is I must pull the engine and pan from the engine to change this out.

True? Some one PLEASE say it isn't so!

dumb person · 03-29-2015, 05:21 PM

To change the pin you only need to turn the engine over until the hole in the crank' lines up with the hole in the bottom of the pan. Removing the radiator might make this easier but i have done it on the roadside when it fell out while driving (odd occurrence)

jwaldrich · 03-31-2015, 06:11 PM

No idea why the pin sheared. this has been a good running car that I purchased about 3 years ago and was already rebuilt.

Used a puller and finally got the old pulley off. Cleaned up the burs on the crank shaft (couple very small ones).

Installed a new pulley but had to trim a rivet head in the pan to get the new pulley past it. Used a Dremel and just shaved it down a tad. Shouldn't be an issue.

The new pulley went on "OK" but I had to use a wood block to tap it on. I wasn't happy about that but short of drilling out the pulley or sanding down the crank shaft there was little I could do. It went on straight thank gawd and I installed a roll (spring) pin.

The new pulley is about a 1/4 inch wider than the one I removed necessitating the work on the rivet head.

Don't know why the old pulley/pin went bad. Have had no incidents since I've owned the car that could even remotely cause this to happen.

It'll be done tomorrow. Thanks for the guidance as I am REALLY happy I didn't have to pull the engine!

Steve Jelf · 04-01-2015, 01:29 AM

John, I would ditch the roll pin. It won't last. Spend a couple of bucks for the stock #3040 pin. The pulley should have a large hole on one side for installing/removing the pin, and a smaller hole opposite that for driving out the pin with a drift. One end of the pin has a little hole for a cotter pin to keep it from going back out through that big hole.

Somebody drilled out the small hole in this pulley so I had to use two cotter pins, but this is otherwise the stock set-up.

jwaldrich · 04-13-2015, 06:56 PM

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She's re-assembled but using the roll pin. Guess I'll see how long it lasts but my guess is it will outlast me!

03-29-2015, 05:04 PM	#1
jwaldrich Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Orting Wa Posts: 290	Crank Shaft Pulley The pin holding the crankshaft fan belt pulley in place sheared. How weird is that. My thought is I must pull the engine and pan from the engine to change this out. True? Some one PLEASE say it isn't so! __________________ John from Kapowsin T&A Guy

03-29-2015, 05:21 PM	#2
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Crank Shaft Pulley To change the pin you only need to turn the engine over until the hole in the crank' lines up with the hole in the bottom of the pan. Removing the radiator might make this easier but i have done it on the roadside when it fell out while driving (odd occurrence) __________________ <Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable

04-13-2015, 06:56 PM	#5
jwaldrich Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Orting Wa Posts: 290	Re: Crank Shaft Pulley Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) She's re-assembled but using the roll pin. Guess I'll see how long it lasts but my guess is it will outlast me! __________________ John from Kapowsin T&A Guy

03-31-2015, 06:11 PM	#3
jwaldrich Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Orting Wa Posts: 290	Re: Crank Shaft Pulley No idea why the pin sheared. this has been a good running car that I purchased about 3 years ago and was already rebuilt. Used a puller and finally got the old pulley off. Cleaned up the burs on the crank shaft (couple very small ones). Installed a new pulley but had to trim a rivet head in the pan to get the new pulley past it. Used a Dremel and just shaved it down a tad. Shouldn't be an issue. The new pulley went on "OK" but I had to use a wood block to tap it on. I wasn't happy about that but short of drilling out the pulley or sanding down the crank shaft there was little I could do. It went on straight thank gawd and I installed a roll (spring) pin. The new pulley is about a 1/4 inch wider than the one I removed necessitating the work on the rivet head. Don't know why the old pulley/pin went bad. Have had no incidents since I've owned the car that could even remotely cause this to happen. It'll be done tomorrow. Thanks for the guidance as I am REALLY happy I didn't have to pull the engine! __________________ John from Kapowsin T&A Guy