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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 362
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Opened up the rear end I bought. The oil was black and smelled like the Kentucky Fried Chicken, but I was pleasantly surprised with what I found. I did not see metal shavings, the axles seem pretty good, and the gears seem to be ok. The wire was in place as well. I think I'll replace the bearings though. Seem pretty loose and there is lite pitting on the rollers. Attached a video of the bearings. Gotta go figure out how to get the drive shaft out now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPKjp...ature=youtu.be Last edited by Kevin - Illinois; 06-30-2012 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Correction |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 362
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How can I tell what my ratio is? Number of teeth?
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,193
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This link to Tom Endy's article will tell you everything you need to know.
http://www.ocmafc.org/techarticles/T...0Re-Edited.pdf Bob |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,013
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Kevin:
Go to www.ocmafc.com. On the left of the home page is a menu. scroll down to "tech articles" and click. It will bring up a new menu. At the top is my name. Click on it and it will bring up a list of articles. Scroll down to the one about differential rebuilding and click. This is a very detailed document with photos that should walk you through. You can download it and print it out. There is no copy right. Count the number of teeth on the ring gear and on the pinion. Divide the smaller number into the larger. The standard is a 3.78:1 ratio. 34 teeth on the ring, 9 teeth on the pinion. Good luck with your project. be sure to replace the races along with the bearings. Relace the seals as well. Tom Endy |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
Posts: 1,370
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How did you come out on the motor?
Quote:
__________________
Sooner Model A Club of Oklahoma |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 362
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The problem wasn't in the motor or transmission from what we can tell. The knock I heard with the rear end disconnected was timing. The only thing left is the rear end. Another poster had the same problem I did, replaced the rear end and the 3rd gear knock stopped. See the last post in the attached thread...
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ighlight=knock |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,563
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The gears look very good & with new brgs & seals you are not likely to wear it out in your lifetime,even if you are young.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Olympia Wa
Posts: 180
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The bearings look like they have about the same amount of slop as the new ones I put in the coupe. However, if they are pitted at all, replace them. Be sure to replace the races as well or you will have the rear end apart again soon.
__________________
1928 Model AR Business Coupe Rebuild picture gallery here Complete rebuild info here Body Filler is for people too lazy to do it right. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 1,207
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Clean every thing real good. Endy's procedures detail the work ahead of you. If a friend has the mitchell puller for the pinion use it, otherwise you will need the types of tools Endy has developed. I would look at using a bottle jack in the banjo to press out the pinion as a good way to ruin a perfectly good banjo. Bob
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee, California
Posts: 1,483
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Quote:
__________________
Working on a '29 OCPU |
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,013
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Quote:
Some of the early "how to" books recommended using a bottle jack to push the double race out of the banjo. This is definately not a good idea. During the early days of my learning curve rebuilding differential\rear axle housings I bent a banjo into a slight oval while pressing a double race into place. I had the banjo sitting flat on the press. If you oval a banjo the bolt holes in the axle housing will not line up. I was surprised at easily the bano bent. That is why in my dissertation article I explain and show photos of the method I use to press in a new double race. I hang it over a platform on the press where I can back up the the back of the race inside the banjo. I use an old race I took out of a rebuild job. If you do not have a press you can obtain a length of threaded stock and cut it into six pieces about six inches long. Screw them into the flange on the banjo. Start the new race by tapping it into place with a brass hammer. You can make up a steel plate, or better yet cut the end off of an old unserviceable torque tube. Pull the new bearing into place by putting nuts on the six threaded stubs and pull the new race into place by tightening the nuts evenly. For pulling an old race out of a banjo I cut an old unserviceable drive shaft to about a foot long and mounted an unserviceable pinion gear with one old bearing installed. I mount the banjo in a wood vice, slip the tool though the race I want remove and attach my pulling tool onto it. Tom Endy Last edited by Tom Endy; 07-01-2012 at 06:34 PM. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 362
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I'm seriously considering leaving the drive shaft and pinion in place as the pinion looks perfect and there is no play in anything. I lack the tools to do this work, and I'm apprehensive on my lack of experience.
One thing I noticed straight off was the lack of shims on both sides of the banjo. I keep reading about .010 and .060 in use but there was nothing in this one and this rear end had not been opened in years. Also, it didn't appear to be leaking at all and it had oil in it. |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 4,583
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The "shims" ARE the gaskets. Surely there were gaskets there on both sides of the banjo?? Otherwise tou would have had leaks., IMO. Please keep us updated,
Paul in CT |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 243
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The oil was black and smelled like the Kentucky Fried Chicken.
I wonder what kind of oil was in your differential. When old 600W gets on my hands it smells bad for many washings. Either you have special oil, or your Kentucky Fried is really bad. I never think food when I do transmission or differential work. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Daytona Beach, Fl & Spencer, W. Va,
Posts: 3,062
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Kevin - Illinois .....................
"FRIED" is not a good word, anymore. That is why KENTUCKY FRIED CHICKEN has changed their name to KFC. MIKE
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