Adjustable lifters keep backing off - what do u do?

[L78CHEVELLE]

I put a set of adjustable lifters in one of my 1940 Ford engines.
Started the car and it sounded great. Two days later lifter noise has increased and the more I drive it the louder it gets. Is the red Loctite stuff the only answer for this problem or is there something else? Lifter screws are very tight to turn until you screw them way down to their bottom for the adjustments. Johnson lifters

[ford1]

toss them in the trash and have the valves set the right way, valves stem ground till the right clearance is achived, ive had more trouble over the last 50 yrs with those worthless adjustables, no matter who makes them

[Ken/Alabama]

I had one that kept backing off also. What I did was bumped the threads with a punch then readjusted it. That was several thousand miles ago and havent had anymore trouble with it.

[L78CHEVELLE]

I'm glad you guys have sent me this information. I thought I was having this problem because I had done something wrong during the adjustment of the valves. The further down I turn the adjustments on the lifters the less resistance they have. Common sense would indicate to me there could be a problem later on.

[Pete]

Put a set of original Ford lifters in. No more worries.
I can help if you want a set.

[41panelmark]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Ok so I have Johnson Lifters in my new engine but no noise yet (about 600 to 700 miles on it. Other than noise what should I look for as far as adjustment problems,etc.?

[Straightpipes]

Well, here goes:
Ford put adjustable lifters in all their rebuilt/remanufactured engines. What in the world were they thinking???
I rebuild quite a few engines. If you wish to pay me per hour to set valves "the old fasion way" then I will gladly do so. However, if the adjustable lifters are correct there will be no problem with them backing off. I test them before they go into the engine and rarely I find one which doesn't tighten to my satisfaction so I DON"T USE IT.
This old arguement has been going on forever and probably won't stop right away. Kind of fun answering anyway.

[Andy]

I have found that exchanging the screws between lifters will tighten them up. You have to hunt to get good combinations.

[frenchy dehoux]

Originally Posted by Straightpipes

Well, here goes:
Ford put adjustable lifters in all their rebuilt/remanufactured engines. What in the world were they thinking???
I rebuild quite a few engines. If you wish to pay me per hour to set valves "the old fasion way" then I will gladly do so. However, if the adjustable lifters are correct there will be no problem with them backing off. I test them before they go into the engine and rarely I find one which doesn't tighten to my satisfaction so I DON"T USE IT.
This old arguement has been going on forever and probably won't stop right away. Kind of fun answering anyway.

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1953 Ford Flathead for my next project and reading all of the comments should I use the solid lifters and adjust them by taking away from the valve end to have the proper gap to the lifters or is there a company that has the better style lifters to use. I did rebuild a V8 60 a few years ago and this is what I had to do.

Thanks
Frenchy

[Fourdy]

I too have read over and over the arguments for or against using adjustable lifters. To have a shop grind the valves for clearance is expensive.

Being someone that likes the feeling of doing everything I can myself and don't care how long it takes, I did the following.

Used set of johnsons resurfaced at $48. Set the gap then took each lifter out and miked the total length of the lifter. Wrote it down and a pad. Took all the screws out and super cleaned the whole piece inside and out to remove the hidden grease and grime in the threaded hole. (kept screw and lifter as a unit)

Put each piece back together setting the length as recorded then using green locktite to keep everything in place.

Saved a little money but have the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Once again, not the only way to do it but the way I have found that works for me.

Fourdy

[L78CHEVELLE]

Is there a way to take the lifters out without removing the heads and the valves?

[frenchy dehoux]

Originally Posted by Fourdy

I too have read over and over the arguments for or against using adjustable lifters. To have a shop grind the valves for clearance is expensive.

Being someone that likes the feeling of doing everything I can myself and don't care how long it takes, I did the following.

Used set of johnsons resurfaced at $48. Set the gap then took each lifter out and miked the total length of the lifter. Wrote it down and a pad. Took all the screws out and super cleaned the whole piece inside and out to remove the hidden grease and grime in the threaded hole. (kept screw and lifter as a unit)

Put each piece back together setting the length as recorded then using green locktite to keep everything in place.

Saved a little money but have the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Once again, not the only way to do it but the way I have found that works for me.

Fourdy

I am with you no problems for me to do it as I am use to build V12 Lincoln engines and all of them have hydraulic lifters so no adjustments are needed. Doing it the right way if it will take time to set them no problem here Thanks for posting your experience on this.

Thanks
Frenchy

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by 41panelmark

Ok so I have Johnson Lifters in my new engine but no noise yet (about 600 to 700 miles on it. Other than noise what should I look for as far as adjustment problems,etc.?

Mark, where did you nget your Johnson lifters? I understand thay haven't made them for years. They were good lifters back in the day. After they stopped making them I went back to butt grinding. The out of the country ones are junk. The only good ones that i know off that you can get today are made in Aostrailyer (spelling) but that are expensive. The only trouble with butt grinding (besides finding someone that can do it) is with reground cam the bass circle is so low that you have to have longer valves or weld the stems up. Walt

[frenchy dehoux]

I hate to make this post is it possible to put a drop of locktite in the threads of the adjusters to keep them from backing out would it help any.

Frenchy

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by L78CHEVELLE

Is there a way to take the lifters out without removing the heads and the valves?

Nope

[frenchy dehoux]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

Mark, where did you nget your Johnson lifters? I understand thay haven't made them for years. They were good lifters back in the day. After they stopped making them I went back to butt grinding. The out of the country ones are junk. The only good ones that i know off that you can get today are made in Aostrailyer (spelling) but that are expensive. The only trouble with butt grinding (besides finding someone that can do it) is with reground cam the bass circle is so low that you have to have longer valves or weld the stems up. Walt

Walt

You are right it takes time to adjust the solid lifters I had to do this on the last V8 60 I had done. I had to weld a small bead on the end of the stem to be able to get the proper clearance to set the valves never had a problem after that. Only time consuming.

Thanks
Frenchy

[Fourdy]

Frenchy,

If you put locktite on the threads while the lifter is in the engine, the locktite will not penetrate the threads if the threads are oily or greasy. Also, if any of the locktite dribbles off of the lifter to the block, you will find it very difficult to get the lifter out. Please don't ask how I know. LOL

Fourdy

[Pete]

You guys and your Loctite.
Do you remember how you get parts apart that have been assembled with Loctite?
You warm them up.
Internal engine parts get way above the release temperature of any loctite.
If the parts are not coming loose with Loctite on them, it is NOT because of the Loctite.

[Fourdy]

Pete,
I have always been told by shops that engines do not get hot enough to dislodge green lock tite but needs heat at least from a propane torch or hotter. Not arguing, just curious

I have so much to learn.

Fourdy

[Fourdy]

Just went to the Locktite site and found this tech info as was kind of going by this info.

"For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the asssembly to approximately 250
°C. Disassemble while hot."

I'm hoping not to let my engine get up to 250C.

Fourdy

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Fourdy

Just went to the Locktite site and found this tech info as was kind of going by this info.

"For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the asssembly to approximately 250
°C. Disassemble while hot."

I'm hoping not to let my engine get up to 250C.

Fourdy

Yup, I was aware of that. In reality, it will release at a much lower temp.
Never having run adjustable lifters but having heard the horror stories ever since they came out back in the dark ages, I'll stay away from them.

[frenchy dehoux]

Originally Posted by Fourdy

Frenchy,

If you put locktite on the threads while the lifter is in the engine, the locktite will not penetrate the threads if the threads are oily or greasy. Also, if any of the locktite dribbles off of the lifter to the block, you will find it very difficult to get the lifter out. Please don't ask how I know. LOL

Fourdy

Thanks for the explanation on this.

Frenchy

[36tbird]

I haven't done it yet, but I went to my local drugstore and got some syringes they use to give kids medicine. There is no needle, just a nozzle that can be used to reach down in the valley to get to the threads on the Johnsons.

It is my understanding that the green Loctite is designed to wick down into threads and that is why you use it. Also, to loosen up the green stuff, you add more green stuff.

[Mike51Merc]

You can peen or knurl the threads a little to create interference. These lifters loosen up if they've been adjusted too many times.

[fomocoloco]

i've read that to loosen threads w/ Loctite, apply more Locktite as a solvent.

[flathead4rd]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

250 degrees C? That's 482 F. Don't think the lifter would reach that kind of temperature. So green locktite should work.

[ford1]

ive been looking this thread for a couple of days now, and two of the best flathead engine builders on here Walt and Pete say butt grind the valves, if your using a reground cam that needs longer valves use chevy valves, if you have to use adjustables to get the right setting and have to back the adjustables all the way out they wont stay set, easiest way like walt said is weld up the stems and then butt grind, even the best adjustables will loosen up at around 10,000 miles and then you have to go back in and reset, thats a lot of fun, do it right the first time and you wont have to do it again for the life of the engine, and another thing you guys say is its to expensive to buttt grind, the engine is there having work done on it, valve job, i have a retired machinest that does my work, he can butt grind all the valves in less than two hours, at $60 an hour thats $120 or less, half of what a set of adjustables will cost, and i never have to worry about them again, as for adjustables being put in rebuilt engines by ford, ford didnt rebuild them, he had them rebuilt by an outside company, ive always thought the adjustables were used by incompentent engine builders or the owner just wanted bragging rights at the local car shows

[oldford2]

I have used adj. lifters on my last 3 rebuilds. After running the engine on the test stand 3 or 4 hours at variable rpms and at 2000 rpm's for 20 minutes or so several times it is easy to pull the intake and recheck. Mostly just a few lifters have to be adjusted a max of a couple of thousands. I was a toolmaker in my younger days and would love to butt grind if I had a grinder. So, if I can find one I will buy it. I am guessing that if the adj. lifters move, they would screw in, not out, resulting in too much clearance and valve noise. If this happens after 5 or 10 thousand miles it still is not a big job to go in and re-adjust them. Not everyone has access to a shop that has the experience to butt grind so the adj lifter is the only option for the backyard builder.
Anyone out there have a grinder for sale??
John

[Andy]

This is how I believe the interference is created. The lifters are tapped with a tap. The threads are the same all the way to the bottom. The adjusting screw is threaded with the same set up from end to end. The interference come from the screw being necked down and then compressed to locally fail the screw causing the threads to to be slightly out of phase. I have not had any luck trying to compress loose screws to tighten them up. I have had good results by just exchanging screws in lifters.

[rotorwrench]

Most of the old valve grinding machines have a set up on them to grind the stems. Of course that started to change after the flathead era was pretty well over.

Motorcycles always used a collet type split nut with a tapered seat to lock the adjusters but you were expected to adjust the clearance every 20K miles or so on them. Those threads get tension every time the valve opens in normal operation so it's just a matter of time before the threads loosen up. Heavy valve springs will speed the process up. A collet lock nut would have been better but there is just not enough room for it.

[Pete]

"Not everyone has access to a shop that has the experience to butt grind so the adj lifter is the only option for the backyard builder."

Yes, but many have a small lathe and that is all it takes to cut the stems.
A carbide bit makes easy work of it. Most lathes have a provision on the carriage for
a micrometer type positive stop or to mount a dial indicator.
Chev valves will usually have plenty of extra material on the stem for adjustment with mild cams. If more is needed, it can be built up either with a torch or tig welding.

[Dee]

Using '52-'53 Ford/Merc rotator valve set may help. The rotator allow the valve stem to spin with the tappet reducing the twisting torque on the adjustment screws. I have this set up on a Zephyr engine and so far it seems to be effective. I also used loctite after adjustment.

[Pete]

While rotators work ok on a bone stock engine, they are an invitation to disaster with a performance cam.

[TomO]

It sounds like either you have defective lifters or the guide locks are not in the correct place.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Vern Tardel has a method that he uses to keep adjustble lifters from coming loose that he shared with me when I visited his Ranch in Santa Rosa, CA in 2010. I'm sure if you contact him by FAX or email (he does not do phones) he will give you that same information. I have 11k on my 21 studder using good quality adjustables and they are staying set well with no valve noise whatsoever. Although I have valve grinding equipment that could do the solid setting procedure, I prefer to use good quality American made adjustable lifters in my flathead engines. Just my personal preference.

[Pete]

Actually the screws are machined off pitch to achieve a slight interferance.
Try checking a new one with a thread pitch gauge. You won't find a gauge that fits exactly.

[Yoyodyne]

Has anyone tried the Flathead Jack adjustable lifters? They have a much larger thread diameter, nearly the diameter of the lifter body.

[jimTN]

The problem is that there are two types of adjustable lifters, one type for reground cams and one for stock. Difference is the thickness on the screw head, much thicker for reground cams. Will try to put up a picture of both. This discussion has occurred many times and the answer is simple.

[Planojc]

I’m curious why the V8’s have problems with adj. lifters and the Model A engines don’t seem to. In our Model A club, I don’t know anyone that is not running adj. lifters and I have never heard of anyone having problems with them.

[Rigley]

I find the pros and cons of using adjustable lifters quite interesting. Im rebuilding a 53 EAB that is practically stock with 390 holly, modified dizzy and headers with dual exhaust. The car is a heavy convertible with 3 speed. If the stock cam checks out OK should i use it or use an aftermarket? As long as it's apart now would be the time.

[tiquer]

Originally Posted by Planojc

I’m curious why the V8’s have problems with adj. lifters and the Model A engines don’t seem to. In our Model A club, I don’t know anyone that is not running adj. lifters and I have never heard of anyone having problems with them.

I believe the model A style lifters have a lock nut on them

[Drbrown]

I successfully used adjustables for my first rebuild in 1958. Granted time and events have changed the market-place but I continue to use them being careful to perform close inspection prior to installation.

[big job]

For those choosing solid lifters check out Fiatnutz on Utube. He machined a fixture
for grinding stems pretty slick. I believe he will machine one for you dial indicator
not included....

[chuck stevens]

stake the threads with a pointed punch 3-4 times, good to go !

[Mart]

I'll chip in with the limited amount of knowledge I do have about adjustables. The screw is compressed as described above so the threads in the upper and lower part are not in phase (thanks for the good description above). The screw is tight when the upper and lower part are both in contact with the threads in the lifter body. If the lifter is able to work with the screw in the mid part of the adjustment range, and also importantly, the winding of the screw is kept to a minimum, then it ought to work as expected. If the tolerance stackup of the parts you are using causes the screw to be almost all the way in, or almost all the way out, then the lower part of the screw is no longer really deeply engaged with the body threads and the locking effectiveness is compromised.

I have only used them a handful of times but paid careful attention to where the adjustment was sitting. I shortened the valves to get the screw positioned in the sweet spot.

You will have problems (Or the chances of having a problem are greatly increased) if:

The screw is almost all the way in
The screw is almost all the way out
The screw has been wound in and out too many times.

If when setting the final adjustment the screw is not real tight to turn, then you will have a problem.

Mart.

[SofaKing]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Please avert your eyes if you are traumatized by the use of tools in an unorthodox fashion.

I rigged this up to grind my (cheap chevy) valve stems. I am satisfied with the result though I have not started the engine yet. They came out flat and the grind pattern is centered. It required remounting the grinding wheel with bronze bushings to take the wobble out from the plastic mounting bushings. I used very light pressure and spun the valve while it was in contact with the wheel. I cooled the valves frequently and obviously had to check them over and over to get to the correct clearance. I only ground one too short and had to replace it. Set-up is key, making sure everything is plumb and square I spent a little time checking and shimming the aluminum post holding the valve. It's SLOW; I would grind, quench, drop it in the hole and check the clearance with the lifter while applying pressure with my finger and repeat probably 10-15x for each valve. I am happy to say all are right at the book clearance limits, I'll soon see how it worked out.

As an aside, I expected to destroy the grinding wheel but there not only wasn't a groove worn in it, there was almost no perceptible wear.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Rigley

I find the pros and cons of using adjustable lifters quite interesting. Im rebuilding a 53 EAB that is practically stock with 390 holly, modified dizzy and headers with dual exhaust. The car is a heavy convertible with 3 speed. If the stock cam checks out OK should i use it or use an aftermarket? As long as it's apart now would be the time.

Use the stock cam.

[19Fordy]

I agree. If your engine is pretty much stock, stick with the stock cam.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Pete

You guys and your Loctite.
Do you remember how you get parts apart that have been assembled with Loctite?
You warm them up.
Internal engine parts get way above the release temperature of any loctite.
If the parts are not coming loose with Loctite on them, it is NOT because of the Loctite.

Pete, I agree with you in part... if the correct Lock-Tite is utilized, they won't loosen up due to any heat that the engine will produce. There are numerous variations of Lock-Tite. I used it on occasion when die manufacturing, some under high heat penetration. All with good and intended results.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

Please avert your eyes if you are traumatized by the use of tools in an unorthodox fashion.

I rigged this up to grind my (cheap chevy) valve stems. I am satisfied with the result though I have not started the engine yet. They came out flat and the grind pattern is centered. It required remounting the grinding wheel with bronze bushings to take the wobble out from the plastic mounting bushings. I used very light pressure and spun the valve while it was in contact with the wheel. I cooled the valves frequently and obviously had to check them over and over to get to the correct clearance. I only ground one too short and had to replace it. Set-up is key, making sure everything is plumb and square I spent a little time checking and shimming the aluminum post holding the valve. It's SLOW; I would grind, quench, drop it in the hole and check the clearance with the lifter while applying pressure with my finger and repeat probably 10-15x for each valve. I am happy to say all are right at the book clearance limits, I'll soon see how it worked out.

As an aside, I expected to destroy the grinding wheel but there not only wasn't a groove worn in it, there was almost no perceptible wear.

Make sure that you get back to us. I have a couple of "econo-builds" going and was considering an approach such as this. IIRC, when I was a kid in the '50's, the guys at the little local garage would do them "free-hand" on a bench grinder!

[Ross F-1]

Grinding on the side of a grinding wheel is a major no-no. This may be very light grinding but not worth the risk to me.

[JonC]

I used adjustable lifters in my motor, L100 cam and Chevy valves. I wished I had checked the original lifters first, to see if they could have been used. The Ford lifter was much lighter weight and that is less strain on the valve train, and Adjusting is a pain in the a$$ I don't care what anyone says. I had about 300 miles when some ticking had occurred, I am sure a couple are loose. I don't want to pull the heads and change it over now so off with the intake and check every one again. I am posting this to let those considering a cam regind to check first you will save money and a longer lasting quiet motor. my 2 cents.

[40 Deluxe]

Wish my '40 had adjustables! It only has a little over 1,000 miles since Dad had it rebuilt by a machine shop in Ford Dodge Iowa that was supposed to be the cat's meow on flatheads. Well, it's clacked since day one. After Dad gave me the car I pulled the intake and found one valve at .022" and some more at .015"+ (plus oil pressure was low and rear main leaks like a sieve). Oh well, a good winter project! There seems to be a Merc crank and some 3 5/16" pistons lurking in the garage, too.

[WestCoast]

get rid of all the trouble and replace the adjustables with the lifters ford designed for the flat head, its not the non adjustable lifters that's the problem, its the back yard mechanic that caused all your problems, you know the type I over hauled my flat head lawn mower engine and it runs

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

Grinding on the side of a grinding wheel is a major no-no. This may be very light grinding but not worth the risk to me.

Ross, What is the specific risk here? Not getting the ends square? The resulting finish on the end of the valve stem? I'd really like to know before I go and do something stupid. It'll be interesting to see how "SofaKing"'s scheme works out.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by tubman

Ross, What is the specific risk here? Not getting the ends square? The resulting finish on the end of the valve stem? I'd really like to know before I go and do something stupid. It'll be interesting to see how "SofaKing"'s scheme works out.

The risk is that the grinding wheel is not designed for this type of pressure (from the side). It can be dangerous in that the wheel can deflect and explode - causing you bodily harm. I have a cousin who lost an eye like this - and he was wearing a face shield (went right through it).

With that said, with a thick grinding wheel and if you stay close to the arbor and DON'T apply much pressure, you'll probably be fine. BUT - you are taking a chance.

A valve butt grinder on a valve machine uses stones/wheels that are specifically designed to grind in this manner . . . they're constructed as such.

[jimTN]

Not sure about the foreign made stuff but you are sure to have problem if you use adjustable lifters with a reground cam because the screw has to be out too far. Once upon a time there were lifters made with thicker heads that worked fine with reground cams.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by jimTN

Not sure about the foreign made stuff but you are sure to have problem if you use adjustable lifters with a reground cam because the screw has to be out too far. Once upon a time there were lifters made with thicker heads that worked fine with reground cams.

Doesn't that depend on the valve length? There are different length valves and there are valve stem caps.

[tubman]

Ross and "Bored&Stroked",

Thanks for the clarification. As I understand it now, the risk is more to oneself than for the valves. I have a Max-1 going into the 258 incher I am currently building. I was going to use the standard heavy adjustables that came with it, but after reading this thread, I am reconsidering that decision. In my collection of parts, I'm sure I have at least 16 Ford lifters that can be re-surfaced. I am also intrigued by the concept of lash caps; has anyone done any in depth research on them? If not, I think I'll go on a little fishing expedition of my own.

[Ronnie]

Many drag racer engines use last caps with no problems.

R

[Mark's 37]

I have lash caps on a 65 Galaxie 445 stroker FE daily driver with Edlebrock heads. Probably close to 10K miles and no problems at all. They snap on to the valve stem and just be sure they don't hit the valve locks. Come in several sizes. The only thing I see that would be different on a flathead is they would be upside down as compared to an OHV installation.

[GOSFAST]

With respect to "butt-grinding" the stems to set the clearance (lash) most valve grinders have the attachment to get this done. I'm certain any shop could finish-size them (lengthwise) once you have all the measurements established. If your numbers are correct it should be fairly straight-forward.

I've mentioned using the lash caps for some time now, the real "positive" using this method (where longer valves may work better) is the fact there is no adverse effect on the spring/retainer/lock setup! We've been using lash caps for over 40 years now on the Flathead platform. Not one single issue ever. Basically they add around .080" to the valve length without affecting the final spring height dimensions.

(Add) We also haven't had a single adjuster "loosen" on any build here, but we still use nothing but the original "Johnson" tappets!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of some 1929 Chev valves being done on the stem ends, not so much for size (length) on this application but to make certain all is "square" on the tops.

[Bluebell]

Gary, can you give us (me) some details on who makes / sells the "original" Johnson ones.
Has anyone had trouble with the "Sealed power" ones?

[outlaw]

Originally Posted by Bluebell

Gary, can you give us (me) some details on who makes / sells the "original" Johnson ones.
Has anyone had trouble with the "Sealed power" ones?

I would like to know also. Bill

[Ronnie]

Here u go

http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp

http://www.toplineauto.com/about-us.asp

http://hylift-johnson.com/our-company/

Find out who sells their product. They bought the Johnson plant and even hired some of the old employee's.

R

[GOSFAST]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Here u go

http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp

http://www.toplineauto.com/about-us.asp

http://hylift-johnson.com/our-company/

Find out who sells their product. They bought the Johnson plant and even hired some of the old employee's.

R

Above here is where we buy the lifters, I'm not sure you can buy direct however!! Possibly, but not really sure?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I can tell you when we make this lifter purchase we buy a "tray" at a time to help offset some costs. I believe for the Flatheads there are 96 lifters to one tray, on the Chev's/Pontiac's, etc. we buy 128 lifters at a clip!

[Ronnie]

Buying direct isn't the issue you just have to see who sells their product.There will be jobbers that carry the product,you just need to source them out.I agree buying direct as a non machine shop isn't going to fly.

You could sell them to members here.I only posted the info to kill some of the internet old wives tale about some products. You have seen many posts when you read them that you know damn well the poster hasn't a clue as to what way is really up.
On another note have you used topline adjustables from them?
Keep up the informative posts,I enjoy reading your posts.

R

[Bluebell]

So Ronnie, the sealed power ones I bought from ebay about 18 months ago are 'one and the same' or have I mis-understood something?

[Ronnie]

Sealed power at one point in time bought the Johnson plant and then after a period of time it was partially run into the ground and sold off.I can't tell you what you have it may be early ones that were made in the early Sealed Power days after the purchase.. Most of the sealed power lifters were sold for 8n 9n ford tractors as adjustable ones.
With a picture Go Fast could also shed some light on this. What does the packaging look like. There is a fair chance that you have early ones.All of this happened before the remains of the production was moved to Mexico and things went in the toilet.

This page kinda sheds some info on what happened to the lifter production. http://hylift-johnson.com/our-company/

R

[CSArno]

im no expert on engines but in Vern Tardel and Mike Bishops book: how to build and modify Flatheads, they say to remove the adjusting screws with low turning resistance from the lifters and give them a little squeeze end to end in a vise. I'd post a pic but dont have written permission
highly recommend the book by the way..

[hotrodcbx]

I have a blown 286" flathead with a Potvin super 3/4 cam. I bought adjustable lifters from flathead Jack (not a memorable experience) which were produced in Australia. I now have 25,000 miles on the engine and have checked the clearance 2 times, once at 10,000 miles and second time this summer at about 22,000. The clearances were never out by more than 2 thou on maybe 4 or 5 of the lifters. I spin the engine to 6000 rpm regularly. The engine was built 11 years ago but I do not know the name of the Australian adj. lifters..

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by hotrodcbx

...I do not know the name of the Australian adj. lifters..

I believe those were FlatAttack lifters?

[Ross F-1]

I bought a set of the recent Sealed Power lifters, but haven't used them yet. I got them on a closeout from Rock Auto for $100. They are heavy, but appear to be quality lifters, and the box claims each batch is tested for Rockwell hardness (can't remember the spec).

[Bluebell]

The ones I bought are hollow, weigh 79 grams each, and came from seller "Clewwho40" who seems to have them listed all the time.
He has 11826 sales recorded with 99.5% positive feedback.

The brand is listed as "SCE 501" and the Manufacturers part number is "53-2032"
Can anyone decipher this info?

[Ol' Ron]

Don't you just love working on flatheads, no matter what you do, your either right or wrong. confusing isn't it.

[JSeery]

Good one Ron, and I couldn't agree more!!

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

I believe those were FlatAttack lifters?

If they have the big threaded adjuster nut, probably so. I believe they are steel and not chilled iron. The only reason I bring this up is that if they are steel, you don't want to run them on a steel billet core (like an original 32 core), as they may gall.

Note: This isn't something that I've actually done with these lifters - but something to check into if you are planning too!

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by Bluebell

The ones I bought are hollow, weigh 79 grams each, and came from seller "Clewwho40" who seems to have them listed all the time.
He has 11826 sales recorded with 99.5% positive feedback.

The brand is listed as "SCE 501" and the Manufacturers part number is "53-2032"
Can anyone decipher this info?

That's what I've been running for about 5 years now. He claimed (at the time I bought them) that they were "brand new NOS, original Johnson lifters". They came in a Johnson box, certainly appeared to be brand new, and included the original (crappy) Johnson wrenches. I've had no problems with them, and although a couple are not "real" tight, they have held clearances. Very suspicious that he seems to have a never-ending supply of them...

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

That's what I've been running for about 5 years now. He claimed (at the time I bought them) that they were "brand new NOS, original Johnson lifters". They came in a Johnson box, certainly appeared to be brand new, and included the original (crappy) Johnson wrenches. I've had no problems with them, and although a couple are not "real" tight, they have held clearances. Very suspicious that he seems to have a never-ending supply of them...

Maybe these lifters are some of the ones referred to in post #65, the Hylift/Johnson website. Seems a bunch of lifters, etc. evaporated from company premises while a shyster/crook was running it (who is now in prison).