Up Grades?

[1930artdeco]

[QUOTE=BillCNC;1519262]Hi Mike,

Don't you have to play with the timing lever while shifting because the engine RPM's changing?

Technically you should retard the spark when you idle the engine. But I have the 5.5 head and run at about 10 o clock and I just leave her there. She doesn't seem to mind.

I have not looked into the electronic ign. plates, but if it fries then you will need to swap the whole thing out. Put in a pre-timed dizzy and then be on your way. You can't just plop in a new plate and go as it needs to be time.

As far as having a dead battery you can jump a 12v to 6v (hooking up the cables correctly) just to start the car. Then you have to disconnect immediately or you could fry lots of electrical things like the starter or worse. I have done it, not the best way but it works.

Mike

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

LEAVE IT STOCK & SIMPLE!
Bill Troublefree

[Y-Blockhead]

A couple of "upgrades" I would recommend and haven't seen mentioned is the addition of LED Tail Lights and Turn Signals for nothing else but SAFETY.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

As far as having a dead battery you can jump a 12v to 6v (hooking up the cables correctly) just to start the car. Then you have to disconnect immediately or you could fry lots of electrical things like the starter or worse. I have done it, not the best way but it works.

Mike

I sincerely doubt you would "Fry the starter" by jump starting a 6v system with a 12v battery. The wiring in a 6v starter is designed to handle twice the AMPS as a 12v starter. As for "lots of other electrical things", yes. Make sure your lights are off...

[Dollar Bill]

I would install the FSI Zipper and never look back. Only have 2 years on mine but absolutely zero problems. Do a quick scan of previous posts and notice how many folks are having spark problems.....

If you like to tinker, after converting to auto advance, mount the T/S switch in the engine compartment and use the ignition lever to control the turn signals.

[RawhideKid]

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Originally Posted by Dollar Bill

I would install the FSI Zipper and never look back. Only have 2 years on mine but absolutely zero problems. Do a quick scan of previous posts and notice how many folks are having spark problems.....

If you like to tinker, after converting to auto advance, mount the T/S switch in the engine compartment and use the ignition lever to control the turn signals.

Do the same search and see just how many have or have had problems with the new electronic ignition.

The stock points have been working very well for the past 89 years. I would however recommend getting the Nu-Rex centrifugal advance since that is really the only thing you do need to take out of the hand of the driver. I can tell you, it works very well. If you do get it, one word of advice, put a set screw in the lower sleeve to attach it to the pump drive. this will insure that IF you do need to pull the distributor, for like a head gasket, you don't need to pull the valve cover too.

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Read about spark control on page 10 of the link.http://www.motormayhem.net/wp-upload...ion-Manual.pdf

Bob

Thank you Bob for the link, it should be a must read! I found it interesting that NO double clutching, this is reprinted from Ford. As for the adjusting of timing advance, pull it down half way for normal driving, retard when engine is pulling hard such as in mud or a steep hill too keep from engine knocking! Advance for high speed!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I sincerely doubt you would "Fry the starter" by jump starting a 6v system with a 12v battery. The wiring in a 6v starter is designed to handle twice the AMPS as a 12v starter. As for "lots of other electrical things", yes. Make sure your lights are off...

And, don't touch the brake pedal while connected to 12 volts.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Part of the FUN is to learn to MASTER the Model As' operation, in STOCK form!
If you want a car to do EVERYTHING for you, jist buy you some "modern" PLASTIC CAR---LOL
ONLY Guys like Jay Leno can AFFORD to POKE overdrives in EVERYTHING, so he can drive them on the FREEWAYS!!
YES, we have FREEWAYS here, you think I live in the WOODS???
Bill Veryopinionatedandcheep

[Art Newland]

I have an alternator and a Mitchell syncro transmission. In both cases my stock units were very worn out. Both units don't change anything on the car and are easily converted back to stock. The alternator takes very good care of the battery, I'd probably use a voltage regulator of some type even if still using generator. As far as the transmission goes, one thing not mentioned is the option for different gearing. I opted for the higher (15%) 1st and 2nd gear ratios. This allows for quite a bit better acceleration, as you can travel faster in 1st and 2nd and getting to 2nd and 3rd is faster because of the syncros. All that being said, if my original equipment had been in good shape, I'd just left them alone.

[BillCNC]

Hi Guy's

Thanks for all the great responses, sure are a few things to think about. I have mastered the timing lever, ... after adjusting the Fuel Adjusting Needle, the car runs much better (don't let the grand-kids sit in the front seat while your back is turned). Don't worry, wheels are chocked when I'm not in it. One other add-on I want to do is a battery cut off switch. I don't want that starter button live 24/7. I also ordered a California Car Cover, ... Yikes, that hurt! Since my car has the luggage rack behind the spare they need to make it and they said it will be 2.5 weeks until delivery leaving her outside unprotected.

Art;

My trans is just fine, no whining or sounds of any kind so if I did go with the Mitchell trans I would keep my trans because the core charge is only $100.00. I do think I am going to get the overdrive simply so I don't have to have my foot nailed on the floor board everywhere I go and feeling like I'm ridding a jack hammer. Right now I have a clutch that's getting soft and needs to be dealt with and the lead time on Mitchell products are about 12 weeks.

Why do you say you would have left it alone, … did you not like it, or wasn't worth the value for the trouble, or you didn't like the gear change?

Regards
Bill

[Charlie Stephens]

Bill,

How about walking around the car, opening and closing the hood, and taking a lot of photos? Someone may see something that will generate suggestions.

Charlie Stephens

[BillCNC]

Hi Charles,

Ok, ... I finally got the issue with uploading handled.

To ALL,

Here are some pictures or my new car. Rip this thing apart, you wont hurt my feelings. I want to know what I have and If something is wrong point it out, I want to fix it. PLease look at the front shot, One of those fender does not belong, Can you please tell me which one?

Hope you enjoy the pictures.

Regards
Bill

[RawhideKid]

First thing I see is the crud in the bottom of the sediment bowl, clean that and add the little paper filter.

Next, you really need a strap around the open end of that starter.

It looks like you are correct, the right front fender is a '29.

Also, unless you live in the back country and travel dirt roads, pull the air filter, that is a gas guzzler. Or, replace the element with a K&N element.

If I'm not mistaken, the 1931 Deluxe Tudor has arm rests in the back seat.

Not sure what the PO did with the choke rod, but the order of install is Leather washer, Steel washer, spring, sleeve. I duno what that extra washer is between the spring and the sleeve. It kinda looks like it was a farmer fix at one time. You might order all 4 pieces the same time you get the band for the starter.

Other than that, I think the Maroon & Black is my favorite color combination, except I would go with the Vermilion pin stripe and wheels. But that's just me.

Very clean car, drive it like ya stole it!

[Bob C]

Looks like the right fender may be bent down as the headlight bar does not look level.
The left headlight looks closer to the radiator than the right light.
Both fenders look like 1931 to me.

Bob

[Charlie Stephens]

Start making a list of things you need to look for at the next swap meet, the starter band being a good example. Original restored parts are always better than reproductions. The four blade fan is a factory replacement introduced in 1933. There have been reports of some of them failing but I have never worried about it. I have run them for years. As with any fan, periodically look for cracks. They make an excellent aluminum reproduction of the Model A two blade fan but be sure to buy a new one from a reputable supplier since some of the earlier ones had problems. A pair of engine pans would keep your engine compartment cleaner. I have heard that the air filter tends to make the engine run rich unless they are properly balanced. The Model A didn't come with an air filter so I would just take it off unless you plan to drive in very dusty areas. You might look for a tire band (or maybe the complete cover) to give the spare tire a more finished look (see photo of the one on my '32, please excuse the dust/dirt). Overall it looks like you have an excellent car. If you are having a real slow day, paint the Ford script on the hubcap. I hate to ask but how is the weather? They make heat shields for the muffler to direct the heat away from the floorboards and insulation for the firewall. They may not look correct but when it is 110 outside anything will help.

Charlie Stephens

[denniskliesen]

A 29 fender will not bolt up to a 30 or 31 splash apron. Not a 29 fender. As far as priority, Brakes and steering. Diagnose and fix the clutch issue. As far as modern upgrades, I only do seat belts and turn signals. You already have an alternator, and it looks like a tag on top should tell you 6v or 12v and positive or negative ground. I'm still running incandescents and they work just fine for me. You just need to make sure the reflectors inside the light are good, reflective and not dull. I cover the inside of all of my lights with reflective tape, except for headlights. Upgrading to HC heads and higher performance parts requires timing to differ from stock, you really need to know the adjustments of some of the nonstock parts or you could do serious damage to your engine. As an example you don't want your timing to be more than 28 degrees advanced with a HC head. Too much advance and you could do serious damage to your bearings. I have talked to a few knowledgeable people about the Nu-Rex auto advance with a HC head and have been told you are better off staying with the manual lever for advance. Concentrate on safety issues first.

[700rpm]

Very nice car. I agree with Dennis and Charlie on their comments and suggestions. I would only add that your light switch orientation is incorrect. The lever should be a 6:00 when off; 7:00 for parking; 5:00 for low; 4:00 for high. Easy fix.

If you don't have shocks, I reccommend a set of Stipes and original style links and arms.
Also, I reccommend you make only safe and stock changes and drive it for a year before you put any fancy money into so-called upgrades. Get to know your car. It will tell you what it eeds.

[700rpm]

Regarding fenders, I have a '30 PU and have noticed that from the front the two fenders do not seem to match. Comparing my car with other '30s, that seems to be common. Have others seen this?

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

LEAVE IT STOCK & SIMPLE!
Bill Troublefree

Amen to that. Stock Model A's are simple and easy to work on and were designed and engineered by the best people Ford could find. Too often the cars get unnecessarily complicated with "upgrades" that only mess up the system. Leave 'em stock, I say.