Taking Apart Ford Y Block 292

[all american boy]

Ford Barner's

next is timing chain.

i figure to take off the cam sprocket and

the timing chain.

if the crankshaft sprocket doesn't come

right off then the crank's going to machine shop anyhow.

still plunking along here!

will post some pic's.

have a nice day

[all american boy]

fordie's

things have moved along.

drained oil.

that was a trip, without an engine hoist and

engine stand.

going to turn it over and take off

oil pan and pickup ( through the pan nut is still on ).

anybody know if there's enough room around

rod nuts and main cap bolts for impact sockets?

will be using breaker bar though not air gun.

have a nice day!

[paul2748]

You don't need impact sockets - regular ones will do.

[all american boy]

Paul

thanks for the reply.

no got regular sockets.

i think the impact sockets should get

all the on there.

no way i want to round off anything.

if no i'll go get the set i've already spotted.

might know by tomorrow end of day.

have a nice day!

[all american boy]

ford barner's

engine is rolled over upside down onto 2x4's.

the oil pan is off.

impact sockets will fit on main cap bolts

but not the connecting rod nuts.

torque spec for rods is 45-50 so i'll see

if i can get them off with 3/8" drive.

as far as 'spun bearing' everything looks

normal so far.

have a nice day!

[all american boy]

y blocker's

didn't get far with inexpensive 3/8" set.

will go at it this weekend with good new set of sockets.

interesting oil pickup, looks like old shower head or

spout on watering can.

real down home!

i like it though, covers lots of area and

i like the single 'slosh' baffle in pan.

have a nice day!

[all american boy]

y blockers

forging ahead here!

9/16 from another set worked.

what socket fits in that rear seal bridge?

have a nice day!

[JeffB2]

This might come in handy: http://www.mre-books.com/ford/engine...6_y_block.html

[all american boy]

jeff

thanks! it's on my list.

not too much as a manual but

i read the amazon sample page

and it's worth the $20.

later!

[JeffB2]

Try searching the title on www.half.com I have scored some great deals on used manuals.

[rick55]

The bolts for the rear main seal from memory are either a 12 point or hex key cap screw. You need to use a 12 point socket. I can't remember if it is 3/8 or 7/16". If it is Alex key that's a no brainer.
Regards

[all american boy]

thanks jeff and rick

i could see they're 12 point after they were out.

i hammered a 10mm socket onto them.

socket and bridge is ok, might need new bolts!

the way is clear to take off mains tomorrow.

going at it with 6 point impact sockets so like

before i'll check for rounding at first.

see you later.

[streetdreams]

They were 3/8 twelve point.............

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by all american boy

i hammered a 10mm socket onto them.

socket and bridge is ok, might need new bolts!

Nice way to treat tools...

[all american boy]

fordie's

have the main bolts broke loose.

the old torque wrench is the only

way to fly.

i passed up the Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar

to use the torque wrench.

see you later, alligator

[all american boy]

y blockers

spinning the main bolts out with

the speed wrench was fun!

crank's out.

#1 and #8 piston came out the bottom.

the rest the main journal webbing gets in the way.

bye for now.

[all american boy]

fordie's

it payed to take out the #8 piston.

that might be the 'spun bearing'.

broken piston top.

little chunk above the top ring landing.

cam's out, lifters are out.

will figure out what to do about bore ridge

and getting other 6 pistons out the top.

later.

[all american boy]

y blockers

lots happened since last post.

scraped out 'cylinder ridge' by soaking

with WD40 and trusty plastic putty knife.

it was just a lot of carbon.

knocked remaining pistons out the top

hitting a broom handle with a 2x4.

some just needed pushing out with broom handle.

have a nice day!

[57 51A E]

You need a ridge reamer and a cylinder hone to finish your job nicely.

[all american boy]

57

the first thing to do is get the carbon 'ring'

out of there.

if the bores DO have a ridge it's ridge reamer time.

as far as honing, the bores need to be straight.

that takes a bore gauge.

i leave all that to the machine shop.

machine shops have 'honing plates' that keep

the honing straight.

have a nice day!