Brake parts identification and puller info Q..

[bobH]

Something I haven't seen mentioned here... The front wheel cylinder size: Early (39-41) came with 1-1/4-in cylinders, and later (about 42?-48) came with 1-3/8-in cylinders. It's my understanding that the 1-1/4 are no longer available, and are replaced with 1-3/8. For your 36 car, 1-1/4 should be ok, but it would be my preference to have 1-3/8 - for a little stronger brakes. JMO
Side note... when I bought my 47, I found several brake descrepancies - shoes mounted backwards, hard lining, and (new) 1-1/4 front wheel cylinders being amoung the problems (resulting in very lousy brakes). With new soft lining, correct-mounted shoes, and correct (for 47) 1-3/8 cylinders, brake performance was/is the difference between night and day. Again, JMO.

[hardtimes]

John,
Thanks for that great info/confirmation: 220 it is then !
NOW worried about axle damage/failure as you say. This whole car is an exercize in examining a rolling disaster, i.e.- everything that I've examined is a wreck in the making; wheel cylinders rusted frozen;wheel bearings not greased ruined; spindle nuts exceedingly loose; brake linings on backward; emergency brake cables bungee corded to frame; emer brake no connected/fabbed in; fatique cracks on/on...bummer thus far

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by bobH

Something I haven't seen mentioned here... The front wheel cylinder size: Early (39-41) came with 1-1/4-in cylinders, and later (about 42?-48) came with 1-3/8-in cylinders. It's my understanding that the 1-1/4 are no longer available, and are replaced with 1-3/8. For your 36 car, 1-1/4 should be ok, but it would be my preference to have 1-3/8 - for a little stronger brakes. JMO
Side note... when I bought my 47, I found several brake descrepancies - shoes mounted backwards, hard lining, and (new) 1-1/4 front wheel cylinders being amoung the problems (resulting in very lousy brakes). With new soft lining, correct-mounted shoes, and correct (for 47) 1-3/8 cylinders, brake performance was/is the difference between night and day. Again, JMO.

bobH,
Thanks much for your input..nobody mentioned this important info! I'm gonna try to post few wheel cyl pics of rt/ft cyl that I just got off of my '36. Look/see if these are familiar to you / let me know what you think,eh!
Question: look at 'only' three bolt holes and my backing plate has FOUR holes..what's with that, if you know
Question: are ALL four wheel cyl same(can't get back drums off yet)?
know any source of cyls in socal area?

[bobH]

As for the 4-holes vs 3-bolts, I don't know, either. But, that's 'just-the-way-it-is' from what I've (also) observed. I think you will find that FRONT backing plates are interchangable, left-and-right. And, I think that the four holes are needed to make side-for-side interchangable. I have no idea why 3 bolts are used??
Rears... I believe you will find cylinders that are 1-1/8 x 1.0.
Sources... Should be able to order them from any local parts store (even O'Reilly's & Autozone & Manny-Moe-Jack). Some have posted here that NAPA can supply them. I bought kits from Ernie's, Monrovia. Richard Lacy, EV8 Garage, West Covina, 626-338-2282. (Richard was/is the brake guru on this forum.) Also, Bill McGrath, Early Ford Store, San Dimas, 909-305-1955. Maybe Jim Gordon, Rosemead, 626-288-3131 or 288-2121 (not sure if Jim is into brakes). Also, C&G, Escondido, 760-740-2400. Maybe Elwood Williams, Ventura, 805-656-1026. And, although not socal, I've got brake cyl kits or cyl's from Mac's.

[hardtimes]

Bob ...thanks! Lots of leads to check out. I like your idea about larger (1 3/8"), will look for that. Also , someone spoke about 'stainless steel' sleeve. Worth a look!

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Henry/Kokomo

They are Lockheed brakes. If there is an adjustment at on the backing plate the bottom of the shoes and one above center, they're '39-'42. If there are no adjustments at the bottom (anchor pins), they are '46-'48. Bendix brakes are an improvement but, I believe, they require a backing plate change. The long shoe goes toward the front of the car. Hope this helps.

Henry,
Just a pic and notes to correct my misunderstanding of your information on which lockheed brakes that I have pictured here. Mine are definitely '39/'42...by your description. My shoes are held at the bottom by bolts/pins and ECCENTRIC BRASS/BRONZE(?) WASHER/adjusters. Thanks for you guidance here !

BTW- if servicable lining (thickness) are on shoes and only problem is ...some sort of contamination,i.e.-brake fluid/grease/dirt, what is best cleaner for shoe material?

[1931 flamingo]

Probably alcohol, but I would replace the linings, they're cheap enough. JMO
Paul in CT

[B-O-B]

I use carb cleaner then 120 grit paper on a block of wood & if they don't cleanup new shoes are not all that expensive. If you can, find a shop to arc the shoes to the drum. Good luck on finding a shop with a brake shoe arcing machine or understands what you are asking for.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Hardtimes - Definitely '39-'42 adjustable anchors in the (your?) hand pictured in post #26. I have a '46 Tudor that a previous owner, apparently, swapped the rear axle for an earlier version which has the '39-'42 style brakes. Once I figured out what I had and how to adjust them, I'm very satisfied with their performance. They are a little fussier than the '46-'48 style but they may do a slightly better job. I think they'll do a good job for you when you get everything in the right order.

[MuskegonFlatheadFan]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

bobH,
Question: look at 'only' three bolt holes and my backing plate has FOUR holes..what's with that, if you know
Question: are ALL four wheel cyl same(can't get back drums off yet)?

All four wheel cylinders are different, lefts and rights and fronts and backs. Backing plates can be used un either side.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by MuskegonFlatheadFan

All four wheel cylinders are different, lefts and rights and fronts and backs. Backing plates can be used un either side.

From what I've found , so far, I think that you are correct. When I disassembled the rusted front whl cyls...found to be 1 3/8 x 1"..great news dampened by RUST!
Some here believe and have said NAPA as a possible source of whl cyls.
Kinda FUNNY (funny odd,eh)story : I looked up Napa store..about mile away. I telephoned and explained what I wanted i.e.- 1 3/8 x 1 fronts and 1x1 1/8 rears. Guy says 'special' order.. that will be $463. + shipping. So , I ask..where do you order/obtain from. He says 'San Francisco'. Hmm, I look up Sacramento Vintage Ford and see that they sell the four cyls for $180. + shipping.
You guys who shop at/recommend Napa...is this representative of that auto store?

[MuskegonFlatheadFan]

I wouldnt order new cylinders until you get them all apart. They may be rebuildable.
Another source for kits and cylinders is Gaslight Auto. Check them out here: http://www.gaslightauto.com/items/mo...rakes/list.htm

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by MuskegonFlatheadFan

I wouldnt order new cylinders until you get them all apart. They may be rebuildable.
Another source for kits and cylinders is Gaslight Auto. Check them out here: http://www.gaslightauto.com/items/mo...rakes/list.htm

Thanks for the site and good suggestion! Must be someone here who has rebuilt whl cyls successfully. Mabe can share do/don't of process for the rest of us who would like to know/try,eh! Any 'special' tools involved?

[Henry/Kokomo]

A brake cylinder hone is the only "special" tool. Cleanliness and careful inspection are important.

[done4]

I buy from www.earlyford.com. Great people, and they have a large inventory. I bought new cylinders and kits for my 32 with 40 hydraulic brakes for about $150.00 for all wheels.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by done4

I buy from www.earlyford.com. Great people, and they have a large inventory. I bought new cylinders and kits for my 32 with 40 hydraulic brakes for about $150.00 for all wheels.

Thanks for that site! Checked out their 'kits'. Hm, didn't realize that 'kit' contains very minimum of only....two boots/two cups! If my cylinders can be 'honed' pistons/cups can be reused..just wondering

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Henry/Kokomo

A brake cylinder hone is the only "special" tool. Cleanliness and careful inspection are important.

Well, with yours being only 'rebuild process' response, I guess guys just buy new and toss old! Or, mabe IT is such an uncomplicated/simple process, that anyone can successfully accomplish it without guidance. I can understand (todays' throwaway mentality/great economy) safety concerns, but thot that some of those here came up similar to my circumstances (lack of $, ergo hardtimes) and rebuild/restore such parts. Asking here is the 'easy way' anyhow. Guess I'll do my research.

[done4]

If your cylinder are not pitted just hone them like Henry recommends and you should be good to go, inexpensively. My cylinders were beyond saving and had no alternative but to replace them.

[37fordpickup]

Your brakes looked exactly what I found on my 37. Appears that a previous owner converted to juice brakes and I have just reinstalled the correct cable brakes. The only difference I see between your brakes and my old juice brakes is the "dust collar". Mine are round and the entire assembly will be for sale soon.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Pictures of hub/drum puller added to previous post #15 as requested by another Ford Barner. This puller was made in my shop with material, hardware and other parts that I had on hand. I needed a puller quick back in 2002 and I didn't have time to wait nor $185.00 to spend at that time on a nice Winfield Tool Works copy of the K.R. Wilson ABV-156 rear hub puller for early Fords. It's not real 'purdy' but it sure works well