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04-08-2024, 02:39 PM | #81 | |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
Quote:
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04-08-2024, 03:30 PM | #82 | |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
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Tim, he had pressure for several minutes' running, then none on a restart.
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04-08-2024, 03:50 PM | #83 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
First start had 40 psi. Same for the next 4-5 runs.
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04-08-2024, 03:58 PM | #84 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
I checked and there is no modification for 90% oil filter.
Follow my logic. If the pump pumps oil when I turn it by hand, and the cam and gear turn when I hold them with a wrench and turn the crank, and the pump gears have not appeared to spin on pump shaft, and the oil pickup is stock with no pinholes, ...oh maybe the bypass is opening at a super low pressure so that when I turn by hand I get flow, but when installed and pumping against pressure, it bypasses?
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04-08-2024, 04:11 PM | #85 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
IMG_20240408_140551189.jpg
What is the stock (factory) bypass pressure? And would i just shim the spring for more? Not saying this one's bad, just wondering.
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04-08-2024, 04:37 PM | #86 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
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when cranking, as it has to go past the gallery to get to the relief valve. Lawrie |
04-08-2024, 04:50 PM | #87 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
Not on an 8ba. The ONLY relief is on the pump itself. Unless I'm off my rocker.
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04-08-2024, 05:00 PM | #88 | |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
Quote:
You are correct.
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04-08-2024, 05:01 PM | #89 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
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04-08-2024, 05:52 PM | #90 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
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04-08-2024, 06:14 PM | #91 | |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
Quote:
In the science of hydraulics, pressure will be constant throughout any closed system.....regardless of the distance from the pressure generating source (i.e. the oil pump). If there is a pressure relief opening (controlled by a spring loaded valve) the excess pressure will bleed off through this valve. Since the pump is capable of building more than enough pressure, the relief valve will be constantly bleeding off this pressure as long as the pump is running. If you have two pressure relief valves, but they have different spring loads, the oil pressure will push against both simultaneously. What will happen is that the oil will bleed off through the lower rated pressure relief valve. The higher loaded spring in the other valve will continue to hold itself closed. So even if you have two or more relief valves, the system will seek its relief through the lowest spring load.....always. As for our old flathead oil pumps, all the original Ford pumps (1932-47/48) did NOT have a built in pressure relief valve as part of the pump itself. Ford designed the system with a separate relief valve, engineered in the oil gallery line....the tube running from rear to the front in the valve chest. The early V8's had a 50 psi relief spring in there. Beginning in 1941 they changed the spring rating to 80 psi and it received a new part number. At the same time, Ford also changed the oil pressure sender unit to the 80 psi rated unit to match up to the new system rating. Unless your older (32-48) oil pump is still in good operating condition, you would have to replace them with the latest version pump, which was the 8BA type. You can't buy those older pumps or kits for them anymore. The new style pump has one additional feature....it has its own built-in 80 psi relief valve. So when you use this pump in the older motors with the separate relief valve up front, you can either remove the spring and plunger from this location, and put the hex plug back in place, or simply leave it all intact. I would change out the spring to the 80 psi type to match up to the 80 psi type in the oil pump.....if your sender unit and gauge are the 80 psi rating. Otherwise I would use the 50 psi spring. We have both springs in stock. For some reason they are not listed on our website. I will fix that later today. __________________ VANPELT SALES LLC Cincinnati, Ohio Office: 513-724-9486 www.vanpeltsales.com www.classictransmission.com
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04-08-2024, 07:28 PM | #92 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
[QUOTE=petehoovie;2303344]Re: About oil pressure relief springs- Again
So when you use this pump in the older motors with the separate relief valve up front, you can either remove the spring and plunger from this location, and put the hex plug back in place, or simply leave it all intact. I would change out the spring to the 80 psi type to match up to the 80 psi type in the oil pump.....if your sender unit and gauge are the 80 psi rating. Otherwise I would use the 50 psi spring. We have both springs in stock. For some reason they are not listed on our website. I will fix that later today. _ I think you wrote something wrong. If you remove the spring and plunger and then put the hex plug back on your going to have a big hole at the end of the oil feed tube creating a good sized oil leak. If the plunger is removed the hole where the plunger sits needs to be closed. Ronnieroadster
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04-08-2024, 08:49 PM | #93 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
Cameron I may be wrong but I was told here on the barn that 8ba's had 80 psi systems from the start so if that's true your 40 or 50 psi on a fresh engine would indicate a problem from the start to me. God forbid but I have seen the galley tube fail on a 8ba and that could cause a similar problem but you would still see oil at the port in the back of the block I would think. How long did you crank on it with the gauge out? With the system open to air the oil would drain back down and with the gear reduction it would take a bit of cranking to get oil up again. Tim
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04-08-2024, 10:14 PM | #94 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
The pump generally relieves at around 60 psi.
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04-08-2024, 11:07 PM | #95 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
My 1953 Motor manual says the relief valve opens at 57 psi. That's close enough to what "flatjack9" says to probably be right.
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04-09-2024, 10:14 AM | #96 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
I've tested many and there is some variation. 55- 60.
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04-09-2024, 10:25 AM | #97 |
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Re: Break-in gone wrong!
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