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11-19-2019, 04:40 AM | #61 | |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Quote:
This is especially important when using the MOROSO PCV valve grommet. Usually this baffle has to have the adapter retaining nut drilled out to allow the valve to fully seat. This exposes the valve to splash.
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11-19-2019, 08:40 AM | #62 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
This should do it... thank you
what threw me was an earlier post you had that mentioned a "PCV pan" that Ford came out with in 1960. Clear as mud
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11-19-2019, 08:57 AM | #63 | |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Quote:
Limited education here -
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11-19-2019, 12:25 PM | #64 | |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Quote:
-1954/1957 Style w Block Side Draft-
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11-19-2019, 12:44 PM | #65 | |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Quote:
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***** - BILLBOARD FOR SALE - LEASE - RENT - OPTION TO BUY - - NO SOLICITING - (Unless A Cheap And Tawdry Bar Maiden ... ) - NO TRESPASS - FISHING - HUNTING - - NO NOTHING - - POST NO BILLS - ... Kilroy was here ... ... sigh ... |
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11-20-2019, 12:31 PM | #66 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
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11-20-2019, 01:07 PM | #67 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Water (condensation) out the exhaust is common on cars used for short trips. Water is a byproduct of combustion. Gasoline is a hydrocarbon, the 'hydro' being hydrogen. Anyway, the water vapor in the exhaust gases condenses to liquid when it reaches the cold pipes and muffler. Idling and putt-putting around town never lets the exhaust system get warm enough to evaporate out this water so it dribbles out the tailpipes. Exhaust gases are corrosive so when mixed with water can rust out pipes and mufflers in a hurry! That's why the old-time corner gas stations all had racks and racks of tailpipes and stacks of mufflers.
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11-20-2019, 01:21 PM | #68 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Great answer! Any solutions for this issue?
the way I see it all that water laying in the exhaust is definitely going to eat away mufflers and tailpipes for sure... |
11-20-2019, 02:00 PM | #69 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Check for drain holes in the muffler end caps. Some have them, some don't. I'm thinking here of the oval OEM style with crimped seams. You can drill a drain hole if needed; about 1/8" or so. Or, if you need an excuse for a run down the Interstate, say you have to go dry out the mufflers! I imagine putting heat lamps under the mufflers and any low points in the pipes for a few days would dry them out, but I've never tried this.
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11-20-2019, 08:56 PM | #70 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
I’m glad the problem is solved. If you’ve got any miles to speak of on the motor, I’d either make a long run or change the oil. If it looks good on the dipstick a good run is probably enough. If it looks other than new I’d run it to warm it up and change it and the filter. No sense circulating contaminated oil.
I’ve drilled holes in the bottom back of mufflers, mainly after blowing a head gasket and filling them with water (that’s a change the oil right now and prime, bearing materials don’t like anti freeze). The long term solution is stainless steel mufflers and pipes behind them. Not polished street rod stuff, most products are available in utility grade stainless alloys. |
11-20-2019, 10:27 PM | #71 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Thanks everyone!
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11-23-2019, 10:08 AM | #72 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
A quick check to make is to remove the breather cap and rig a vacuum gauge in the opening. Should be some vacuum there. Do not remember how much but some. Used to be a small plastic gauge in the old days you held over the pipe and it registered a vacuum or pressure. System works by drawing in clean air through the breather, circulating it around the engine and out the PCV valve which meters the flow. Sounds like it is blocked somewhere. Y-blocks had two styles of road draft tubes. One on the front left of the block with a filter/oil separator, the other at the back of the valley pan. Both were baffled to prevent oil from being sucked out. Which style was yours originally? I don't like the location your valve is installed in. Hard to tell what the tapped hole was originally used for. But I see another picture showing it in the valley pan. Which is correct now? Rather see it in the valley pan, but has to be baffled.
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11-23-2019, 03:28 PM | #73 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Another great reply! My draft tube is
Located front side. ( Blocked off) . The pcv is located in the block. I put a 4" pipe to raise it up, so it Doesn't get oil contamination. |
11-23-2019, 03:38 PM | #74 | |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Quote:
OEM used both a splash shield and separator.
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11-23-2019, 04:01 PM | #75 | |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Quote:
Autolite ... But it won't ...
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11-29-2019, 09:46 AM | #76 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
I still do not understand what the PCV valve is screwed into. I know it's a threaded hole in the block but is that hole open to the valley area or an oil galley? Was there vacuum or pressure at the breather cap pipe?
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11-29-2019, 09:59 AM | #77 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
Where the OP has the valve installed (on the block directly behind the valley pan opening) is incorrect. There is neither a splash shield under the valve or any type of separator above the valve. The valve install will continue to draw excessive fumes/vapors into the intake tract and foul earlier than preventative maintenance will catch.
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11-30-2019, 10:31 AM | #78 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
I could be wrong but from what I know it looks like the valves in these pictures are installed wrong. Normally, with these screw in valves, the threaded end screws into the intake or carb base with the threads at the vacuum source and the hose running to the valley pan, valve cover, or area where the older road draft tube went. Try reversing the valve and see what that does.
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11-30-2019, 05:58 PM | #79 |
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Re: y-block blow by..
From my experience, the hose with vacuum from the carb base or intake manifold goes to the nipple end of the PCV valve. The other end goes to the crankcase/lifter valley. Looks installed correctly to me.
Sal |
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