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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Decatur IL
Posts: 16
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I have a '39 standard. It was apart when I got it. I'm ready to put the windshield in but wonder if I need to get all the crank mechanisms or just have someone make it permanantly sealed to the body. Thanks in advance, Rod
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 232
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Before restoring my 39 std. the windshield was glued in, but I changed it back to where you can open it. Love it on a warm day. You can usually find the mechanism on ebay and the knob is available from most vendors.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois/Southern
Posts: 876
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The 39 windshields are notorious for leaking. I put the regulator in, cranked it shut and sealed the windshield shut with some clear windshiled sealer I got from NAPA. If you do a really nice job no one will ever know it is sealed shut.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 1,182
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Mine leaks only when it rains or snows. I drive with the windshield cracked to provide a nice air flow. A great feature. I rebuilt my crank and gear. I think I have an extra mech somewhere.
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Decatur IL
Posts: 16
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Hey guys, thanks for the input. I'm wrestling with my mechanism. Clem, I might be interested in that extra mechanism if you still have it. Also, does anyone know what goes in the brackets at the top? Whatever was in mine is gone and I have nothing to hang the windshield from.
Thanks again, Rod |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois/Southern
Posts: 876
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There is a hinge that screws into the top of the windshield frame and screws onto the bracket attached to the header across the top of the windshield opening. Do a search on the swap page. There was a guy recently selling the hinges you need on the early V8 swap page.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 523
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spend the extra time and little money to correctly install your window frame with the proper hinges and crank mechanism. you will be glad you did!
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 156
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My windshield leaks... I've waiting for new rubber on back order for months (!) but have been wondering if it is worth replacing. It seems the w/s closes tight on top and the center of bottom edge, so i'm not sure the new seal will do the job. Also, is it worth dealing with the headliner etc to r & r the windshield? I'm thinking of replacing glass when it's out as there is some bubbling and slight fogging.
Any thoughts? |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 1,182
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klicker,
The little screws in the windshield frame are nasty buggers to remove. I have not had any luck. Think the job thru before you start. |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Decatur IL
Posts: 16
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Hey guys, thanks for all the info. I think I will go back to the original crank out deal. Seth, I need whatever the top hinges hang from. I can see where whatever it is was attached to the header area of the top but I don't know what they look like or if I could duplicate them. Thanks again for all the good input. Rod
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Magnolia Texas
Posts: 408
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I just did mine in a 36' it was a Biatch! The rubber seal was kinda hard to figure out but I got it in correctly. All the frame screws were nasty to get out, actually had to drill and re-tap them, the 2 holes in the middle of the frame for the crank out mechanism had to be drilled completely out to 5/16 then re-sized back down to 1/4-20 using heli coils, it was a job but everything works great!
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 156
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Clem and Flat-V8, are you talking about screws that mount the hinges and regulator to the window frame? Or are there screws that hold the frame together?
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison,Wisconsin
Posts: 137
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There are 4 screws on either side of frame towards bottom corners as you are looking at it from regulator/hinge side.these have be removed or drilled out before two pieces of frame will come apart.also there should be a center strip held in place with one screw.i could not get mine apart for seemingly forever till I place the seam where the pieces joined on corner of workbench and rocked back and forth.use lots of penetrating oil and good luck.as a side note look on side of frame for ford script every 18/19 inches,would have thought marking in a couple places would have sufficed.
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#14 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Decatur IL
Posts: 16
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Hi guys, and thanks again for all the neat info. I'm searching for one as we speak. Thanks again, Rod
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