Tips to replace w/s seal 48 Ford 2 dr sedan

[ricklove]

Can anyone give me some info/tips to replace the w/s rubber seal on a 1948 Ford 2 dr sedan? Never tried it before, but it appears to be a relatively simple task. Any input????

[Vic Piano]

I did that job on a '46 TuDor 30 some years ago. If I remember correctly, you'll need some string, liquid soap and at least one other set of hands to do the job. First, install the glass in the rubber, start at the top corner on either side, insert the string between the rubber and the body. Have your helper on the inside of the car while you pull the string along the ridge so that the rubber wraps itself around the opening and seats itself. Oh, I almost forgot, make sure the stainless windshield trim is in the rubber before you try to install it. I'm sure there will others who have done the job more recently, and they may have a better way of doing the installation.

[19Fordy]

Read what 363window says in this thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t.../#post-2846111
When I installed the stock windhield in my 40 Ford I did apply a tiny amount of sealant into the groove where the glass fits and then also under the outside lip of the seal after it was installed. This insures that water will not sneak or weep in under the rubber seal and stain you interior. One side does go in first (I forget which side) because of the overlap of the center strip rubber. Check this out first so you will know in advance how the seals overlap each other. As I recall, my wife held the glass/seal in place on the inside of the car and I pulled the sash cord so as to lift the outside lip of the rubber up and over the metal edge of the windshield opening. I started this process at the bottom edge of the rubber near the corner of the center divider and worked around the perimeter of the seal nice and slow adding dish soap at the lower and upper corners so the rubber wouldn't tear. I started where I did because it seemed logical that I could push slightly downward on the glass/seal so it would settle more easily into the bottom groove of the seal - thereby making it easier to "pull" the sash cord and have the window slide into position along the top edge. That way, gravity would be helping me, I thought. When done press down on seal and wipe away excess sealant with mineral spirits after the install. Some folks say sealant is not needed but mine has never leaked since 1978. I used BOB DRAKE seals.
DO NOT USE SILICONE OR ANY ADHESIVE SEALANT as it will start to harden before the glass and rubber are installed and it won't fit the window opening. Plus, you will have one heck of a mess.
I also used undiluted liquid dish soap as a lubricant all around the windshield.
Plus, you will have more working room and much easier for the helper who is holding the glass/seal in place on the inside, if you first remove your steering wheel. Hope this helps. Click on pic to enlarge.

[47Merc]

If you go to the Vanpelt site there is a full pictorial instruction from the Ford / Mercury Shop Manual.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...-40-46_pg1.htm

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Read what 363window says in this thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t.../#post-2846111
When I installed the stock windhield in my 40 Ford I did apply a tiny amount of sealant into the groove where the glass fits and then also under the outside lip of the seal after it was installed. This insures that water will not sneak or weep in under the rubber seal and stain you interior. One side does go in first (I forget which side) because of the overlap of the center strip rubber. Check this out first so you will know in advance how the seals overlap each other. As I recall, my wife held the glass/seal in place on the inside of the car and I pulled the sash cord so as to lift the outside lip of the rubber up and over the metal edge of the windshield opening. I started this process at the bottom edge of the rubber near the corner of the center divider and worked around the perimeter of the seal nice and slow adding dish soap at the lower and upper corners so the rubber wouldn't tear. I started where I did because it seemed logical that I could push slightly downward on the glass/seal so it would settle more easily into the bottom groove of the seal - thereby making it easier to "pull" the sash cord and have the window slide into position along the top edge. That way, gravity would be helping me, I thought. When done press down on seal and wipe away excess sealant with mineral spirits after the install. Some folks say sealant is not needed but mine has never leaked since 1978. I used BOB DRAKE seals.
DO NOT USE SILICONE OR ANY ADHESIVE SEALANT as it will start to harden before the glass and rubber are installed and it won't fit the window opening. Plus, you will have one heck of a mess.
I also used undiluted liquid dish soap as a lubricant.
Plus, you will have more working room and much easier for the helper who is holding the glass/seal in place on the inside, if you first remove your steering wheel. Hope this helps. Click on pic to enlarge.

Good (informative) post.
The point of NOT using silicone's should be taken to heart. Most silicone's will delaminate modern glass and will most certainl7y delaminate old Ford glass. professional glass shops on occasion use a special silicone that is made for glass. It is quite expensive and not readily available at a local; hardware store.

[ricklove]

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MANY thanks guys!!! Exactly what I was looking for!

[TJ]

Napa Auto Parts makes a glass sealer that is excellent. I put masking tape around the edge of the gasket and any excess sealer can weep onto the tape. Pull the tape and you rarely have to use any cleaner for clean up. The Napa part # is 4121