1930 won't start, no spark

[Terry, NJ]

I know it's a no spark situation. I parked the car a few months ago, came back and it's no go. I fooled around with it for a while, determined that it was no spark and wondered about which parts I would have to replace. I worked on it intermittently till today. I changed the coil, the points, the condenser (that was a PITA) Threw everything back together,timed it and VOILA! IT started! Life is good again! So I took care of some details while it was running and drove it next door where the mechanic is an A nut too. He wasn't there but his boss was and he and I were having a chat about stuff including mod As and their simplicty he heard a spark tick and we chased it to the cap at #3 position. Time to go came and I was just about to go when she died again. Again, no start! No juice to the points as before. The car was pushed to a corner of the parking lot. I wanted some advice for tomorrow. I have a condenser tester and the condenser tested good. My ohm meter crapped out on me again (dead battery) so I can;t do any continuity tests
Any suggestions?
Terry

[Mitch//pa]

If you need help tomorrow bring a screwdriver, test light and a jumper wire and call me at the shop.. I'll walk u through it..
Is it an original point style set up??? What kind of ignition switch??? Pop out or aftermarket??
the pig tail wire in the dist is common

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

I know it's a no spark situation. I parked the car a few months ago, came back and it's no go. I fooled around with it for a while, determined that it was no spark and wondered about which parts I would have to replace. I worked on it intermittently till today. I changed the coil, the points, the condenser (that was a PITA) Threw everything back together,timed it and VOILA! IT started! Life is good again! So I took care of some details while it was running and drove it next door where the mechanic is an A nut too. He wasn't there but his boss was and he and I were having a chat about stuff including mod As and their simplicty he heard a spark tick and we chased it to the cap at #3 position. Time to go came and I was just about to go when she died again. Again, no start! No juice to the points as before. The car was pushed to a corner of the parking lot. I wanted some advice for tomorrow. I have a condenser tester and the condenser tested good. My ohm meter crapped out on me again (dead battery) so I can;t do any continuity tests
Any suggestions?
Terry

Why not buy a new battery for you ohm meter? Wayne

[CWilson]

Sounds like what I had happen. Pigtail wire broke.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

"Maybe" spark to # 4 is jumping through the cap to # 3 connector?? It's common. Look for a "fuzzy" spot on the cap, near the # 3 strap. If you study a cutaway of the tracks in the cap, you can see that's about the ONLY place that can happen!
Bill W.

[Mike V. Florida]

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This may help,

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpo...87&postcount=4

[Terry, NJ]

Thanks Mitch, It's the original points type and a repro (I think) Pop out, with a short in it. It is shorted in the lock cylinder. It's only shorted when the key is in off position, However........This short is the kind that drags the battery down over night. It shows a 2-4 amp discharge with the switch in off position. But it may be doing other things in there by now. Can those things be rebuilt?

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

If you need help tomorrow bring a screwdriver, test light and a jumper wire and call me at the shop.. I'll walk u through it..
Is it an original point style set up??? What kind of ignition switch??? Pop out or aftermarket??
the pig tail wire in the dist is common

[Terry, NJ]

I believe that's exactly what's happening!

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

"Maybe" spark to # 4 is jumping through the cap to # 3 connector?? It's common. Look for a "fuzzy" spot on the cap, near the # 3 strap. If you study a cutaway of the tracks in the cap, you can see that's about the ONLY place that can happen!
Bill W.

[Terry, NJ]

I've needed that diagram, it's printed out and gone into my records!

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

This may help,

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpo...87&postcount=4

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the car lost it's spark from just being parked, it's about 100% chance all it needs is to clean the points, and NOT replace any parts.

As far as the repro ignition switches, mine and several others that are the common turn style (not popout) have poor contact when on. They should be made to have a slight dimple and feel like it clicks into position. A good test everyone should make for the switch is: while the engine is running, slowly turn the key towards the off position. On mine just the slightest touch of the key killed the engine, so I knew I had a bad switch. In fact the key fob swinging back and forth made the coil quit one day.

I was able to take the switch apart and make it have better contact in the on position, and it's been fine since then.

[Terry, NJ]

UP Date. I finally got the *&*%$ thing going again! It's the key switch I'm sure. It's never been right. what with drain and all. I removed the dashboard and poked around with a hot clip lead, it didn't seem to do anything, Now it shows a discharge (Who ever would think that a discharge through the key switch would be progress?) So I start it up, Yeaaa! It starts! Then it dies and no juice in the battery. So I'm back to plan A. The battery is on charge and a couple of hours from now I will go start it and bring it home. Thanks to everyone!
Terry

[Terry, NJ]

Tom, can the Popouts be repaired or rebuilt? Looking them up, it seems they go for a nice chunk of change. Is there any way to get inside of them?
Terry

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If the car lost it's spark from just being parked, it's about 100% chance all it needs is to clean the points, and NOT replace any parts.

As far as the repro ignition switches, mine and several others that are the common turn style (not popout) have poor contact when on. They should be made to have a slight dimple and feel like it clicks into position. A good test everyone should make for the switch is: while the engine is running, slowly turn the key towards the off position. On mine just the slightest touch of the key killed the engine, so I knew I had a bad switch. In fact the key fob swinging back and forth made the coil quit one day.

I was able to take the switch apart and make it have better contact in the on position, and it's been fine since then.

[Mitch//pa]

Terry put this in and forget about it... Insulate the switch and tank so it does not touch.....they are good quality and will fool any judge....

[Bob C]

The original system has the ground side of the circuit going through the switch,
just in case you were looking for a hot wire at the switch.

Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, the popout can be repaired. I've done my own, both the early style and late style with the steel rear cover crimped in place.

Remember on an original popout the points are grounded at the switch, when it's pushed in (OFF position). The ground side of the coil, which is connected to the side terminal on the popout will show 6 volts at all times, until the key is turned on (popped out) and the points are closed.

[Terry, NJ]

OK! But where's it from? Macs, Bratton's, Snyders?

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Terry put this in and forget about it... Insulate the switch and tank so it does not touch.....they are good quality and will fool any judge....

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

OK! But where's it from? Macs, Bratton's, Snyders?

All of the above

[larrys40]

Terry , just to reiterate as Tom and bob said the origin Popout DID ground out the points with the Popout pushed in the off position . It's the theft proof feature of the switch. When you push it in it breaks the hot connection and grounds the points at the same time

Easy to troubleshoot and see what's happening with a volt ohm meter
Get one, learn how to use it, you will be glad you did
Larry Shepard

[Jacksonlll]

It probably was dirty points. Just pass a business card through the points to make sure they are clean. You probably have a bad ignition switch too.
This video may help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXA6izLrTOc

[Terry, NJ]

Larry, I see where I'll have to get a new cap too, So I'll go with Mitch's advice and spring for the new switch. I want this problem solved once and for all. Plus I have to go for a new Generator as well. However, I will try to rebuild the "Pop Out" and put it in another car, Nothing gets wasted around here.
Terry

Originally Posted by larrys40

Terry , just to reiterate as Tom and bob said the origin Popout DID ground out the points with the Popout pushed in the off position . It's the theft proof feature of the switch. When you push it in it breaks the hot connection and grounds the points at the same time

Easy to troubleshoot and see what's happening with a volt ohm meter
Get one, learn how to use it, you will be glad you did
Larry Shepard