which is the best way to go

[vangogh]

Hello out there. I am about ready to have my "Vicky" repainted in the original colors. My question is. Do I paint it with clear coat added OR not add clear coat? I want it to be as original as possible since it will cost big bucks to paint

Thanks for listening

[eagle]

Ask the provider to show you cars with examples of both types and LOOK at them. Be aware, some body shops will only use base/clear nowadays.

[J Franklin]

If you are going original use lacquer on the body, he said tongue-in-cheek.

[redmodelt]

Wouldn't they have been painted with enamel?

[Patrick L.]

I think the choice is yours, you'll have to live with it.

What do you like the look of ?

I don't like base/clear on old cars, it just doesn't right right to me. Its a lot easier to work with, it just doesn't look right.

[jb-ob]

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Ask Henry......he would not have spent the $$.

[VT Cruzan]

I had my paint supplier match the Kewanee green and Elkpoint green from a couple of areas I buffed to find the original colors. Imagine my surprise to find this 1931 standard coupe was two tone! As this was going to be a driver, I was not concerned about losing points in a show. I wanted a durable finish that would hold up well and not crack or craze. We used a base coat / clear coat system. That was in 2000. Now, 21 years later, the paint is perfect and gets loads of compliments. The only maintenance is wash and wax!

[Gene F]

So these base coat / clear coat systems, are they essentially a car that gets painted, and then is clear coated? Like the way the high-end paint jobs were back say 25 years ago?

I'm asking because I was considering getting my streerod resprayed, and then clear coated. The paint is still nice, but if I want it to pop I'll never get there without the clear. I have a 37 Chevy that was clear coated, and that thing was beautiful.

My car was painted over 20 years ago, and still looks good. Was thinking about scuffing with a scotchbrite pad, respraying the same color, and then clear coat. So this is why I am asking.

[ronn]

Gene, it sounds like you know what you want and so, that is what you should do. everyone on here will have differing opinions. some prefer more original and you obviously are looking for high shine.
I am guessing some of the As coming off assembly had orange peel in the paint. todays restorations regarding paint, are of much higher caliber and products out today are unrivaled, from 1930 standards.

[McMimmcs]

I have a large car collection and I have learned from experience! Base clear does not look like a 1920-30 era car! It’s far too shiny! My opinion!

[J Franklin]

Model a painting did not produce orange peel. The black fenders and etc were dipped in enamel, and the bodies done in lacquer and buffed to a shine except the trucks were not buffed.

[ronn]

SO J you are then saying that the quality of paintwork in 1930 is the same as today?


my point..........

[J Franklin]

The quality of the paint job for the materials available was maybe superior. A modern car does not get buffed at the factory. I see orange peel on many new car finishes.

[CWPASADENA]

If you are looking for a finish that is close to what was originally done at the factory, paint the body in lacquer and the fenders and splash aprons in enamel.

If you do not want to go to the effort of buying lacquer and enamel, you can use single stage paint. Cut and buff the body. Buff the fenders but leave just a little orange peel. This will reasonably closely replicate the look of the original factory paint.

Base coat/clear coat does not replicate the look of the original lacquer and enamel that Henry used.

Now, it you are painting your Model A and are not trying to replicate the look of the original factory paint, use 2 stage (base coat/clear coat).

If you are having your car judged, the judges will not like 2 stage paint. If you are painting the car to please you and you like the gloss of the 2 stage paint systems, go for it.

My opinion,

Chris W.

[fundytides]

Just had my 31 Roadster done in base/clear and I am happy with it. Deciding factors were 1-Not a show car. 2-Will last a long time. 3-Hard to find a body shop in this area that will do anything but base/clear. 4-Easy repair of scratches and scrapes. Just do what suits your purpose and what you are happy with.

[nkaminar]

Just a single coat is easier to repair (touch up) than the base and clear coat. If you want it to "pop" and won't have any damage (scratches) then the base and clear coat will give you that.

[Kevin in NJ]

BC/CC will always look glossy. On the A it looks plastic, fake especially when you see one next to a car that is painted as close to factory as you can get with modern paints.

If you do single stage right it too will be too glossy out of the booth. You actually need to buff the SS to cut down the shine and approach the factory gloss.

The original lacquer paint of the body would be not a clean and pure color wise as todays paints. If you are going for a correct factory and JS points look it is a long process. You even will need to flatten paint in areas since they were not buffed out.

Before you go with BC/CC I suggest you go to a larger car show where you will find both types of paints on the A and decide.

In the end it is your car and you must decide what you want to look at everyday.

[Bob Bidonde]

A Model "A" is place looking for scratches & chips. Clear coat is difficult to touch-up. I strongly recommend a single stage urethane paint system. About every 6 months or so, I spend a day touching up scratches and chips on my Victoria.