New Rookie Question about Removing 32 Engine

[Old VW Guy]

I have a relatively original 1932 Ford Deluxe Fordor. I'm pretty sure it has the 1936 Flathead V8 with Stromberg Carlson 97 Carb. I need to remove the motor because the Clutch is so bad, it can barely be driven. I want to remove the motor with the least about of disassembly of the motor itself. What is the best way to "grab" the motor with the hoist chains ? By attaching to the Intake Manifold bolts ? Any suggestions ? Thanks, Dan

[325w]

You can fab up eye bolts to screw into the spark plug holes. I’d use head bolts an brackets front and rear on opposite corners, Need a support under the trans. Remove grille shell from radiator. Set the radiator off. Hope you have a machine shop who can surface the flywheel.

[Bored&Stroked]

Take the front of the car off - including the grill, radiator, radiator support rods, etc..

1) I think it is always easier to remove the engine and transmission in one go. This also gives you a chance to checkout the transmission while it is out of the car and potentially have it rebuilt. Also, it allows you to bolt everything back together outside the car - such that you can align the clutch and trans input shaft, make sure the throw-out bearing adjustment is right, etc..

2) You'll have to remove the floorboards first (easy job), disconnect the clutch linkage, starter cable, rear block support rods, etc..

3) I always pull the generator, starter, intake, distributor, plug-wires, etc.. Get all of that stuff off the engine and out of the way.

4) I use two short-chains that pickup two intake bolts on the front, same on the rear. Then I have a longer piece of chain that connects to the two short ones. Or, use one of those engine "levelers" that are used to pull engines - connect it to the two short chains. The advantage of using one of these is that you can easily change the angle of the engine/trans as you're pulling it (and you will need to).

5) When you have the engine out, think about mounting it on an engine stand (with a side exhaust mount adapter - not off the rear 1/2 bellhousing!), pull the pan and clean it out. You can check the bearings while you're at it. Since you've gone to all the trouble of pulling the engine, might as well check it out while you're waiting on the machine shop.

Okay . . . enough out of me!

[DavidG]

A load leveler is a must, both for removal and re-installation, as it is tight quarters between the front cross member and the lower edge of the firewall Don't even bother to try and remove only the engine leaving the transmission in place.

[Blindhuckster]

As others said, it is best to have an engine load leveler. As you can see, you really need to get a good upward angle as you come out. (This was on my 37 coupe) I pulled the engine and trans together. Best to remove as much as you can from the engine. Best to have a helper, but I did pull mine by myself. Here is my setup. Nate

I bought the Engine Load Leveler from Amazon OTC 4305 Engine Load Leveler

and the Engine Stand Adaptor from Stumpys Fab Works

https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html[/url]

[Ol' Ron]

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I would definitely take the intake off. This will protect carb and make removing the engim=ne. Place a piece o fchai between to bollt in the intake manifold and you can lift the block ut odfthe cst. do not remove the trans this way/ The is a specill adapter the fits in the valley that doesn't need anu bolts,zmost of us have one.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Blindhuckster

As others said, it is best to have an engine load leveler. As you can see, you really need to get a good upward angle as you come out. (This was on my 37 coupe) I pulled the engine and trans together. Best to remove as much as you can from the engine. Best to have a helper, but I did pull mine by myself. Here is my setup. Nate

I bought the Engine Load Leveler from Amazon OTC 4305 Engine Load Leveler

and the Engine Stand Adaptor from Stumpys Fab Works

https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html[/url]

[glennpm]

A load leveler is a must. As said, remove the intake with carb. I bolted to the front and rear intake block bolt holes.

[Bored&Stroked]

BTW, buying a load-leveler is not an expensive deal - just checkout Jeg's or Summit Racing.

[Old VW Guy]

Thanks for the help !! I didn't think about machining the flywheel !! Very Good Suggestion !!

[Old VW Guy]

Thanks Man !! Great Advice !! I appreciate the tips !!

[Old VW Guy]

Got it Thanks !!

[Old VW Guy]

Great Pictures !! Thanks for sharing !!

[Old VW Guy]

I like the idea of removing the intake Thanks !!

[Old VW Guy]

Excellent Picture !! Really helps. Thanks !!

[Old VW Guy]

Great Pictures !! Very Helpful ! Thanks !!

[Planojc]

Get you a couple of Harbor Freight moving blankets to protect the fenders. You can catch them on sale for about $6.

[ct1932ford]

So i'm getting ready to put my motor back in my 32 hi-boy. Had it out to rebuild trans and new clutch while I was at it. I installed the trans already. I did pull everything out together but I planned on putting motor in by itself. Trans is in already. Your thoughts?? Thanks

[my4dv8]

I don’t think the morons on TV reality hot rod shows have ever seen a load leveler , I really have no idea how they do it without damaging the car or themselves with out one. At least removing the grill and hood on a 32 is relatively straight forward .

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by my4dv8

I don’t think the morons on TV reality hot rod shows have ever seen a load leveler , I really have no idea how they do it without damaging the car or themselves with out one. At least removing the grill and hood on a 32 is relatively straight forward .

You might be able to do it with a helper that knows what they're doing and understands that you value your car. I've done it, but it can be rather nerve wracking and imprecise!

Glenn