The Ford Barn - View Single Post

larrys40 · 02-19-2013, 08:43 AM

Wilbur,
Wow.. lots of good posts! Troubleshooting should be a very logical path to get to the core of the problem. Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter. If so, start checking for voltage and any drop in your primary (low tension side) of ignition. Dist. cap/rotor out, check voltage at points ( open) , coil, igntion switch... voltage should be roughly the same. If not you have a bad connection somewhere.

A high percentage of carburetor problems are electrical. check and make sure all your connections are tight., coil wires, ignition switch ( yes, you could have an bad /intermittent ignition cable/switch), Even though it's a "new" distributor have you pulled the cam up and upper plate up to make sure there isn't a lower plate/screw loose/pigtail issue, or otherwise. Lower plate not shorting anywhere, including ignition cable not screwed in too far causing lower plate to short against housing. I like gluing a small piece of rubber as an insulator when doing housings where the lower plate would fit close as insurance when the cable would be screwed in. Some cables have a longer plunger than others.

Finally, yes, you have checked all the essentials, gap, retimed/timing,spark. I have also seen where the rotors cause these kind of problems, even hard-no start or hard start and poor running. Sometimes it's little witnesses, like a small wear hole in the rotor, so small you can barely detect it... and it causes the high tension spark to go through the rotor. so... have you tried a new rotor and cap. Cap quality varies greatly. Is the rotor tip aligned to the body? Little things... pay attention to detail, use your meter, troubleshoot logically. Make sure you have correct consitent low tension voltage where it should be, if not, find/fix problem, then ensure high tension side is OK.
Test... Don't guess! ( that's the old Sun Slogan)

If you have someone who is electrical/test equipment equiped/savoy, you can always have your condensers and coils checked. I do them on an early Ford Heyer test set so I know exactly what is good and bad. Model A condensers should read .20-.25 microfarads, coil primary about 1.2-1.4 ohms, high tension 10KV-18KV (need proper test equipment for this, no meter).

With a good calm, logical path, non shotgun troubleshooting tecnique I'm confident you will locate the trouble.. and learn in the process. It is the best way. Good luck
Larry Shepard

p.s., yes at 55lbs your compression is fine, not low, and your spark plugs are wet because to too much fuel ( choke from trying to start). ensure plugs are clean, gapped properly, and tight.

02-19-2013, 08:43 AM	#38
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: Bad Condenser Symptoms? Wilbur, Wow.. lots of good posts! Troubleshooting should be a very logical path to get to the core of the problem. Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter. If so, start checking for voltage and any drop in your primary (low tension side) of ignition. Dist. cap/rotor out, check voltage at points ( open) , coil, igntion switch... voltage should be roughly the same. If not you have a bad connection somewhere. A high percentage of carburetor problems are electrical. check and make sure all your connections are tight., coil wires, ignition switch ( yes, you could have an bad /intermittent ignition cable/switch), Even though it's a "new" distributor have you pulled the cam up and upper plate up to make sure there isn't a lower plate/screw loose/pigtail issue, or otherwise. Lower plate not shorting anywhere, including ignition cable not screwed in too far causing lower plate to short against housing. I like gluing a small piece of rubber as an insulator when doing housings where the lower plate would fit close as insurance when the cable would be screwed in. Some cables have a longer plunger than others. Finally, yes, you have checked all the essentials, gap, retimed/timing,spark. I have also seen where the rotors cause these kind of problems, even hard-no start or hard start and poor running. Sometimes it's little witnesses, like a small wear hole in the rotor, so small you can barely detect it... and it causes the high tension spark to go through the rotor. so... have you tried a new rotor and cap. Cap quality varies greatly. Is the rotor tip aligned to the body? Little things... pay attention to detail, use your meter, troubleshoot logically. Make sure you have correct consitent low tension voltage where it should be, if not, find/fix problem, then ensure high tension side is OK. Test... Don't guess! ( that's the old Sun Slogan) If you have someone who is electrical/test equipment equiped/savoy, you can always have your condensers and coils checked. I do them on an early Ford Heyer test set so I know exactly what is good and bad. Model A condensers should read .20-.25 microfarads, coil primary about 1.2-1.4 ohms, high tension 10KV-18KV (need proper test equipment for this, no meter). With a good calm, logical path, non shotgun troubleshooting tecnique I'm confident you will locate the trouble.. and learn in the process. It is the best way. Good luck Larry Shepard p.s., yes at 55lbs your compression is fine, not low, and your spark plugs are wet because to too much fuel ( choke from trying to start). ensure plugs are clean, gapped properly, and tight.