[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Since you asked. I've been around Model A long enough to see owners want to change things thinking they have too.

Let me give you some examples;

Install the new Zenith carb. Dyno test have proven that a rebuilt old Zenith will provide GREATER horsepower then the new but it is easier to just buy something then have the old sent out, even for the same money. New must be better!

I need Halogen lamps, instead of properly aligning, focusing, cleaning reflectors.

My front end shimmies so I need a "steering stabilizer" instead of rebuilding the axles and steering parts.

I need juice brakes so I can stop better instead of adjusting what is already there. Some how locking up the wheel with juce brakes is better than locking them up with stock brakes.

I need 12 volt so I can get a jump start.

Do I need to go on?

Does someone want to make the changes because they want to, since it is their car or do them want to make changes, or because they think it is better due to poor maintenance?

We ask the question why to get to the real reason for the change.

And since the Admin of this site has stated; "The ford barn will focus on restoration... And stock fords. We might have a side bar here and there, but restoration will remain the focus. Once the novelty wears off the new format, we will start pointing more in that direction.", we ask the question why to try to maintain a stock model A.

With all that said, this is from Kens garage;

Battery

Any good 12 Volt battery will do as long as it will fit your battery box and hold down. I selected a 72 month, 675 cranking amp, universal battery.

Alternator

I installed a GM 63 Amp Alternator with an internal self exciting voltage regulator. The hook up is one wire, the same as the existing generator. You will need to make two small brackets to mount the alternator or you can use two shackle bars and drill out for the proper size bolts. An alternator pulley can be purchased from your friendly Model A parts supplier.

Starter

No modifications are necessary to the starter. Just touch the pedal and enjoy really fast starts.

Ammeter

I changed the standard 20 amp ammeter to a 30 amp ammeter as an alternator will peg the standard meter. You must reverse the leads on the ammeter due to the change in polarity of the battery. Your neighborhood Model A parts supplier carries the 30 amp ammeter.

Headlights

Since I installed an alternator I opted to go all the way for headlights and convert to Halogen bulbs. The conversion is relatively easy. You can purchase a kit to modify your existing reflectors or you can purchase new reflectors with the Halogen sockets installed. You must install an alternator to successfully operate Halogen bulbs.
6 Volt kits are available. What a pleasure to be able to really see while driving at night.

Ignition

You could install a 12 volt coil and a resistor to reduce the voltage to the points.
I elected to install a PerTronix IGNITOR electronic ignition system. This is an extremely easy system to install as it fits entirely inside the distributor; no outside boxes are required. Kits are available for the standard Model A or B, early V8, and Mallory distributors. Both 6 and 12 kits are available.
Kits are furnished with a new coil as the correct coil resistance is very important for proper operation. Kits are distributed by: Remund Ignitions, Inc.
P.O. Box 857
Lemon Grove, CA 91946-0857
(619)460-3620

Horn

Getting the horn to work properly was the most perplexing part of the conversion. I tried several "voltage reducers" from the local parts stores but none could handle the current demands of the Model A horn. I finally purchased a 0 to 2 Ohm variable power resistor with a 100 watt rating from an electronics supply house. I selected a variable resistor in order to optimize the voltage to the horn.
The resistor I purchased was am Ohmite D100K2RO ($15.87) with two Type 12 brackets ($0.55 ea.) (Newark stock nos. 13F671 & (2) 13F099) from:
Newark Electronics
1-800-463-9275
Branch offices of Newark are located throughout the United States. Minimum order is $25.00. An alternate approach would be to puchase a 12 volt horn.

Light Bulbs

The following bulbs can be used with a 12 volt system: Cowl, Tail, and Dash Lights - #89, 6 cp
Dome Light - #67/97, 4 cp
Stop Lights - #1156/10, 32 cp

Turn Signals

If you have a Signal-Stat turn signal it will be necessary to change the flasher to a Signal-Stat #180 and the bulb to a #1445.

I agree with you. I see people buying the dumbest things. Advertising sells.
People say you must be scared when you down Main street with mechanical brakes. I usually do not reply. I think a lot of the remarks about the old ways is generated by people that never did maintenance on the their cars in the old days. I might buy an alternator if they looked like the original generator or the power house generator but probably not. I am glad that people ask why and I always like new ideas. I am running a Yapp two port head so I probably should not be talking. I think the reason a lot of people want to change stuff is because somebody criticized their car and hurt their eagle.

I have some friends with some expensive cars (150.000 to 200000) built by some custom car builder. They will be at car show and my primered model "A" gets more attention then their cars. I answer more questions and meet more people than my friends. They usually get a trophy of some kind and I never have received an award, but I get the satisfaction that I did all the work myself and I actually stole the show.

What is really funny is when I do not enter the show and park off the show grounds and there will be a crowd around the model "A".