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Old 03-27-2013, 12:57 PM   #19
yachtsmanbill
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Two Rivers, Wi.
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Default Re: water in the oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Will N View Post
Can I check the flatness of the head by bluing it, and laying it on some paper that is stretched out on a large pane of glass? The glass is flat, and if the bluing transfers evenly from the head to the paper, it will tell me if the head is flat.

Actually, the best way to check it is to use a machinists' straight edge. Check it end to end, side to side, and corner to corner. In IDEALVILLE, there should be (by the book) less than .002" gap anywhere with a feeler gage, or, use a flashlight at the joint for escaping light. In PLEASANTVILLE, anything better and you wouldnt need a gasket! You can lap the joints like we did on steam turbines... try lapping a 100 ton turbine shell (hint: its done with come alongs).
I would blue the face of the head and the block with spray Dyechem and lightly drag a file across it. Itll show high by the bolt holes and edges which is where the gasket comes into play. Ive seen several layers of aluminum foil used when a gasket wasnt available. I also like to "bump" each hole with a 45 degree countersink by about 1/16". JMHO...
Accuracy versus close is all relevant. How flat is that glass REALLY? How flat is the glass sitting on a cast iron table saw with some paint overspray on the surface? Glass will flex BTW. Now if you know a machine shop with a large granite surface block, you can really get it close to nuts.
Its a Model T, so think like an old time farmer back in the day. In regards to the earlier Ts, Ive heard that the cast iron was softer and indeed would pull the threads out with the bolts. Helicoils or Keenserts are the method to correct that one. ws



This is a Starrett block. All those micrometers and gages have to start somewhere!
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