Quote:
Originally Posted by Hivolt5.0
GB Sisson:
1. Yes, the fuel sender should work with a 12v system as long as you use a voltage reducer on the gauges.
2. The horn relay: The battery connection goes to constant power. If you are converting to 12v you need to get a relay rated for that. One of the connections goes to the horns and the third is the switch. From the factory, the "signal" wire would go to the horn switch which would ground the circuit. I'm not sure how a pull string switch works so you'll need to read the instructions on that.
3. So you found the wire that powers the three gauges? If this is true, then on the back of the gauges there are the wires that run to the respective senders. You need to ground the senders, not the wire between the sender and gauge. The temp and oil sending units get their ground from the engine (do not use thread sealant) and the fuel sender has an extra wire grounding the sender to the body. Also, the senders need something to "sense". So the fuel sender you can move the float which should activate the fuel gauge. The temperature sender you could submerge in hot water to test the gauge. The oil pressure, I'm not on that one.
I hope this helps and good luck!
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Agree with responses 1 and 2 but why isn't grounding the wire between the sensor and the gauge the same as grounding the sensor? It shouldn't matter if I ground the wire at the sensor or somewhere in between.
My question would be how did you wire the voltage reducer? There are several types; one is simply a two port resistor and another is a three port voltage divider. If using the first type, the resistance may be too high causing nearly no voltage at the gauge. To make sure this is not the case, measure the voltage at the gauge power source after the voltage reducer and the sensor as the load. It should be 6 volts. Also measure that the voltage into the reducer is nearly 12 volts. If not the problem could be the reducer or the wiring.