The Ford Barn - View Single Post - Nuts-Bolts-Cotter pins....

Kevin in NJ · 10-01-2013, 06:05 AM

You should be aware that you may not want to use repro fasteners for points and function.

Many of the reproduction fasteners are not shaped properly and stand out to anyone with experience.

Then there is the function problem.
Ford used precision manufacturing and many of the threads are a tighter tolerance then what you find today. A quick example would be the rods that go from the firewall to the radiator. The nuts and the threading on the rods are done to a tighter tolerance. If you try to use a die on the rods you will remove metal and the nuts will be looser. Add in using any non Ford nuts and they get real loose. Ford did this because it will allow those nuts to stay tight.
Then there is the nuts with tighter tolerance threading and extremely hard. A quick example are the nuts the hold the rear spring to the frame. Try a file on some originals, they barely make a scratch. Less scratch then a grade 8 nut. The threads are a tighter tolerance, run a tap through and see how the tap will get chewed up. Those nuts also have a specific color to them.

I know the supposed NOS screws from a major screws source that are for the cowl sides are not right. The heads and slot are different and they have a narrower shaft by the head allowing the original oversized inside lock washers to float too much.

So far all the new oval head screws I have seen are not the proper shape. The are too thick and the edges are rounded. Just look at the cross section of the originals. This is not too much of a problem as you can chuck up the screw in a drill and file the shape to be more proper.

A piece of advice. If you are not sure that the screw is a common lesser tolerance screw, like many of the trim screws, do not try to use a tap or die on the fastener. I hand clean the threads with wire brush or a pick.

So, if you are doing a show car for points you need to really think twice about any repro fasteners if you really want your car to look correct.
If you intend to actually drive your car then you really need to think twice about the modern fasteners as many will not do the job properly.

Lastly, do not throw away any screws. There are many restorers that would be happy to take that scrap metal off you hands and reuse them.

10-01-2013, 06:05 AM	#9
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: Nuts-Bolts-Cotter pins.... You should be aware that you may not want to use repro fasteners for points and function. Many of the reproduction fasteners are not shaped properly and stand out to anyone with experience. Then there is the function problem. Ford used precision manufacturing and many of the threads are a tighter tolerance then what you find today. A quick example would be the rods that go from the firewall to the radiator. The nuts and the threading on the rods are done to a tighter tolerance. If you try to use a die on the rods you will remove metal and the nuts will be looser. Add in using any non Ford nuts and they get real loose. Ford did this because it will allow those nuts to stay tight. Then there is the nuts with tighter tolerance threading and extremely hard. A quick example are the nuts the hold the rear spring to the frame. Try a file on some originals, they barely make a scratch. Less scratch then a grade 8 nut. The threads are a tighter tolerance, run a tap through and see how the tap will get chewed up. Those nuts also have a specific color to them. I know the supposed NOS screws from a major screws source that are for the cowl sides are not right. The heads and slot are different and they have a narrower shaft by the head allowing the original oversized inside lock washers to float too much. So far all the new oval head screws I have seen are not the proper shape. The are too thick and the edges are rounded. Just look at the cross section of the originals. This is not too much of a problem as you can chuck up the screw in a drill and file the shape to be more proper. A piece of advice. If you are not sure that the screw is a common lesser tolerance screw, like many of the trim screws, do not try to use a tap or die on the fastener. I hand clean the threads with wire brush or a pick. So, if you are doing a show car for points you need to really think twice about any repro fasteners if you really want your car to look correct. If you intend to actually drive your car then you really need to think twice about the modern fasteners as many will not do the job properly. Lastly, do not throw away any screws. There are many restorers that would be happy to take that scrap metal off you hands and reuse them.