Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
You have good hydraulic pressure and full of fluid?
|
YES. 1" of Brake Pedal travel will skid all four wheels. Reservoir is full.
Quote:
|
When you remove the two contacts and use a jumper wire the lamps should come on.
|
This is what happens. AND the Turn Signals work, so the Wiring is good.
Quote:
|
One lead should always be hot, even with the key off.
|
Right. That's what blew the Fuse. Should have disconnected the Quick Disconnect Switch on the Battery before connecting the Jumper Wire
Quote:
|
If not possibly a bad bulb contact/socket(s)?
|
NO. Everything works as advertised with the Jumper Wire in place.
Quote:
|
Your directional signals work?
|
YES. Perfectly.
Quote:
|
That switch shown requires much less hydraulic pressure to operate it. STANDARD is (was) a good brand. Do you see a COUNTRY of ORIGIN on the box?
|
Made in Mexico!
Quote:
|
It MAY be that the BRAKE LAMP SW CIRCUIT is routed through the turn signal switch (to break the lamp during braking and turning).
|
It is. The Brake Lamp Circuit goes through the Turn Signal Switch, and is turned OFF when the Turn Signal Light is ON. It then turns ON when the Turn Signal Light is OFF. The other Brake Light stays on when the Turn Signal is functioning. EXACTLY AS IT SHOULD BE.
Quote:
|
Do you have a wiring schematic?
|
Yes. It is in the Ford/Mercury Shop Manual. There is nothing wrong with the Wiring.
Quote:
|
Check for power first at switch lead
|
It has full Battery Voltage
It has full Battery Voltage
Mr. K., everything is exactly as it should be, except for the Standard Brand Brake Light Switch. The Brakes Work. The Master Cylinder obviously works. The Brake Light Circuit Works when the Jumper Wire is in place. The Turn Signal Circuit Works. The Turn Signal Flasher Works. The only problem is that when I push on the Brake Pedal, the Brake Light Switch doesn't turn the Brake Lights ON. But it DID last evening, but NOT this morning.
Have ordered TWO of the Brake Light Switches that you recommended. They are on their way, or at least in the process of being on the way. Two of them plus shipping came to $37.50.
QUESTION: Does the Master Cylinder do anything other than just pressurize the Brake Lines? The reason I ask is because in the Shop Manual, there is an exploded view of the Master Cylinder Assembly. It shows a Valve Seat, and Check Valve in the forward end of the Cylinder. I don't know what those two parts do. This particular Master Cylinder was gotten from NAPA not all that long ago. It has never been opened, taken apart, or anything.
It was just installed along with a total NEW Brake System.
All four Brakes were rebuilt. NEW Wheel Cylinders, NEW Brake Shoes, NEW Brake Hardware, and NEW Brake Lines were installed. Everything has been functioning wondrously since then. Pedal is rock solid at about 1" Travel.
By all reasoning, the culprit in this malfunction is the Brake Light Switch. BUT it doesn't stand to reason that TWO BRAND NEW Brake Light Switches would malfunction one right after the other. If the NEW Switches that you recommended arrive and do not function properly, where else should we look for the problem?
Anyway, this has been the first time that replacing a Brake Light Switch has been a problem. Am quite thorough at diagnosing the system. Everything is exactly as it should be. Am resigned to the reality that the Brake Light Switches are the problem. It just seems so improbable that two of them failed to work right out of the box.
OR, it could be that Ms. American is just messing with me because she enjoys my company and attention. You know how women are!!!
Stay safe. Take care.
JCAllison