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-   -   The Flathead oil modification thread... (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39658)

John Kennedy 06-13-2011 11:25 PM

The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Hey all. After extensively reading Merc Cruiser's thread and gaining knowledge and confusion, I thought I'd start this thread.

Tonight I modified my 1948 59a flathead. I followed the directions found here .. www.flatheadv8.org/filter.htm

Went well, took my time and am happy so far.

I have a couple questions however....

First off, I had no grub screw so I suppose I should add one. Did Ford thread the passageway for me? I looked, but couldn't tell.

Also, I read that I need to rotate the rear cam bearing 90 degrees. Why is that? I will be running an electric fuel pump, no mechanical pump used. How will that cam bushing get oil?

And at the bottom of the 9/16 vertical passageway, should I do anything where the small passage intersects at 45 degrees near the pump? Enlarge, smooth out, or neither?

JWL 06-14-2011 05:56 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

No, Ford did not machine threads for the grub screw. Yes, the grub screw is necessary if oil is to be sent into the filter. No, it is not necessary to relocate the cam bearing if the fuelpump pushrod bushing is in place.

Merc Cruzer 06-14-2011 08:50 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

John Kennedy:
As to the rotating the rear cam bearing, since you will not be using the mechanical fuel pump and will be removing the rod, it is my understanding this will keep the oil from coming up the tube for the rod. I am using both the mechanical along with an electric fuel pump as a back up and to cure the "vapor lock" issue that comes into play from time to time. As to the "grub screw" (generic term) you can get them at any ACE hardware in either steel or brass.

Glad the thread was of use to someone....it is always good to hear of failures along with the successes as I always learn from both of them....I have to admit that I never would have guessed it would get the response it did!


JM 35 Sedan 06-14-2011 09:36 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

[QUOTE=JWL;223546]No, Ford did not machine threads for the grub screw. [/QUOTE

Wouldn't the Canadian blocks have been threaded for grub (set screw) by Ford?

Bruce Lancaster 06-14-2011 09:52 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

They used a slightly different technique to separate the in from the out...a special long fitting went through the outer hole and down into the passage to separate the functions.

Merc Cruzer 06-14-2011 10:05 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

John:

"Also, I read that I need to rotate the rear cam bearing 90 degrees. Why is that? I will be running an electric fuel pump, no mechanical pump used. How will that cam bushing get oil?


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...t=38439&page=7

See post #129


John Kennedy 06-14-2011 10:13 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

That completely makes sense regarding rotating the cam bearing to block off that passage. I still don't know how that rear bushing would get any lube though? I don't want to starve it.

Merc Cruzer 06-14-2011 11:14 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

1 Attachment(s)
The rear bearing does not use the same oil feed tube as the center and front bearing do to get oil. It has a separate passageway in the block from the oil pump. Hope this picture is clear enough....

John Kennedy 06-14-2011 12:29 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Great picture, thanks! I'll go look at mine when I get home.

Bruce Lancaster 06-14-2011 01:10 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

That picture is of a Canadian (probably WWII) factory full flow system...what manual is it from?

JWL 06-14-2011 01:31 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Post #129, as suggested above, is wrong for this application. There WILL NOT be any oil leak as is indicated. Please remember, the engine being discussed is a 59 block. The pushrod bushing COMPLETELY seals at both ends. Rotating the cam bearing is not necessary if the bushing is in place. For electric pumps I always insert a small, tapered, aluminum plug in the bushing which can later be removed if a standard fuelpump is desired. The plug can help in cases where the stock fuelpump stand and breather are used, without all the original baffles, as oil can be cast upward from the camshaft lobe where the fuelpump rod is designed to operate. If the stock baffels and tube are missing the breather can receive an oil fog.

The rear cam bearing receives oil from the rear gear housing which quickly fills with oil from shaft clearance at the upper oilpump bushing and from the clearance at the upper oilpump housing machined O.D. section.

saints 06-14-2011 02:11 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

here ya go
http://flatheadjack.com/39.html

Merc Cruzer 06-14-2011 04:38 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

JWL:

Will the picture work for him or is that wrong too?

meric42 06-14-2011 09:40 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster (Post 223692)
That picture is of a Canadian (probably WWII) factory full flow system...what manual is it from?

Hi Bruce, That is the same picture as presented in the Canadian Military Pattern (CMP) maintenance manual "MN-F1" from WWII Dated June 1943.

This is a very handy manual to have if you can find one.

Cheers from Downunder :)

John Kennedy 06-14-2011 11:12 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Well HELL. Minor setback. I cleaned out all my metal shavings from the passageway mods, and broke thru the casting at the bottom of the vertical. Right above where the 45degree bend is.

I'm guessing sleeve it? It's drilled to 9/16 dia. Hole goes into clutch area. Where can I find a suitable sleeve? Brass or steel?

Teich 06-14-2011 11:41 PM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Here is how i did mine, it is a 8ba style block from a '52. Drilled down from pushrod bushing to the rear main hit the center lucky! drilled the bearing insert, pluged the old oil gallery from oil pump (1/4" rod). remove push rod bushing and plugged the hole with pipe plug. This is a Canadian block so install the grub/716" nf set screw in the cross over, has the two vertical holes . 100% filtered oil works real good 6000 miles no issues. Laurie

Merc Cruzer 06-15-2011 07:23 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

Meric42:

By chance does the manual show the size of the lines to and from the filter? I thought I had read that the canister type filter would not handle a full flow system. Also it is interesting to note that the passage way between the two openings in the block is not blocked off, as is the modern-day full flow system....or is that sleeve in the block for the feed?

Barlea 06-15-2011 08:02 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

External lines are 3/8" ID, the cannister and filter are not the same as the bypass system, and the Ford Canada system uses a sleeve type fitting to block the horizontal passage. How the hell can so many of you read that long thread regarding this topic and forget all of it in such a short time? ..B.

Merc Cruzer 06-15-2011 08:32 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

I agree that there are numerous threads about the modern full flow system that is incorporating 3/8" lines, but I was looking for confirmation that as to what this particular system used in 1943. Is there a diagram and description of the canister and filter used here? As to not remembering the long thread regarding this topic I have read numinous threads addressing the "new full flow system" but do not remember one addressing this specific system. Could you direct me to it, as I would like to print it off for future reference and to insure I do not ask this question again! Thank you in advance for your patience.

John Kennedy 06-15-2011 10:16 AM

Re: The Flathead oil modification thread...
 

That, and the fact that drilling into a cast iron block is pretty darn scary. As evidenced by the fact that I messed mine up. I can fix mine via sleeving, at least that's the plan.


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