Bumper bolt removal
 

I have a very nice set of Model A front bumper bars. The ends of the end bumper bolts are stuck in place. I have pounded on them, and used penetrating oil but all I do is peen over the bolt end. I know I can always drill them out but is there another, simplier way? These are chrome bolts that are stuck.
Thanks

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Try an Impact wrench,a quick burst may loosen them!!?

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

I had a hell of a time getting the bolts out of my rear bumpers. The bolts were very rusted and had swelled, locking them in place. I had to heat the ends of the bumper bar with a blowtorch for a while, then quench them. The portion of the bolt that was inside the bumper bars looked looked like something from a 300BC archeological site. Ironically, the heads, the threaded ends, and the nuts on the bolts were in excellent condition. I thought it would be a 10-minute job taking the bumpers apart, but it took a couple of days.

If your bumper has OK chrome, I don't think you want to try my technique...

Doug

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Heat the bolts. They will expand and contract. That will loosen them.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

I would try heat, without so much as to damage the chrome bars. Also you could try a port-a-power with the spreader attachment between the bars to see if you could start the bar moving on the bolt just a little. On the front bars you could spread all you want. In fact working side to side on the front you might push the bottom bar all the way off, so you just have one bar for the bolt to be pushed through.

Use a hydraulic press rather than a hammer to pound out the bolts.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Heat on bumper ends past 300 or 400 degrees will affect the spring steel. Bed idea.

As Vince said, electrolytic rust removal. It will errode the rust in the hole. You just have to be patient as it takes time.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Since I have not tried this, please forgive my ignorance in this area but I was thinking that I jhad read where 'Electrolytic erusting' was only effective in "line-of-eyesight". If the bolt threads are rusted to the nut, -or the nut is rusted to a washer, will this method penetrate that area to break the rust bond?

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

If you're not in a hurry, soak the end in a bucket of molasses and water for a couple weeks. I'm doing some spindles, some A dash faces and a Zenith carb body as we speak, and the stuff's been in there for like 4 weeks now. Some of it was done in a week, some not. I have less than 2hrs and about $5.00 invested, and at last check of progress yesterday they're ready to go now. Do a search, it really works and will NOT effect plating. The down side? Time and odor...

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

i agree with vince on the electrolysis
just stick the end in the bucket for a few days it will come out
ive used it on maybe a hundred "frozen "shocks and about 75 carburetors
no odor,no mess and dirt cheap ,maybe .25 cents worth of sodium carbonate
as with anything, it will take time to soak in the tight place,but the rust will dissolve
tom

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

i forgot to mention
electrolysis is NOT line of sight
i have done doors,quarter panels,truck radiator shells,fenders,rumble seat lids,cowls,wheels,you name it ,and all surfaces are derusted,and in many cases the paint also comes off,with NO damage
do not use it on items with small springs ,such as window riseres ,take the spring out first,as hydrogen embrittlement will affect the spring,but the larger items have had no problems
tom

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Cool Tom, ....thanx for the comments & advice!!

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Never tried this; but, it may be worth a try:

1. The opening between the top & bottom chrome plated bars of the bumper measures approximately 1-1/8".

2. If you had, or would cut two (2), 12" long oak, ash, or maple 1 x 4's, (actual dimensions of 3/4" x 3-1/2"), you could make two (2) 12" long tapered hardwood wedges, 3-1/2" wide.

3. Each wedge could be ripped such that the thick end would remain 3/4" at the thick end, and next cut uniformly at an angle tapering down to approximately 7/16" on the other thin end.

4. On one end of the bumper, next to the bumper end bolt, insert both tapered wedges in the 1-1/8" bumper space, with each wedge facing in opposite directions & begin tapping one of the 3/4" thick ends a little -- then tap the other thick end a little to equally tighten the wedges.

5, Appears that as the wedges tighten, the bottom bar next to threads on the bumper bolt could be moved off of the bumper end bolt. Once it moved, if needed for bars to be spaced farther apart, non-tapered wood blocks could be added to the (2) wedges.

6. To avoid bending the other bumber end bolt on the other end, work both ends with wedges at the same time.

7. When one bottom bar is off of one (1) bolt, move this bar in & out, (back & forth), thus rotating this bar around the bumper bolt on the opposite end of the bumper.

8. Appears with the bottom bar removed, both bumper bar spacers would be easier to remove at this time, & the friction holding the bumper bolts to the top bar would be greatly reduced & easier to remove by any of several methods.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

If you did peen over the stud or bolt you may have to split the nut to get it off or cut the stud flush with the top of the nut. Of course these methods are last resorts.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

All good thoughts and advice. I should clarify that the bars are apart and the head end of each bolt is stuck in one of the bars. The bolts have but cut off somewhat so only 1" or 1/2" are exposed. the chrome is very good so I will avoid heat, not to mention the fact I don't have acetylene.
The elctrolysis sounds like a good idea so I may start there. Heard lots of good comments on its use. I have a 12v battery kicking around I use for my power winch. I will use that. I suspect sodium carbinate is easy to find? Drug store probably?
I'm surprised nobody suggested a 10 ton press to push the bolt head out. But I don't have one of those either.
Thanks for the time and effort to reply to this question. I will get back to let you know how I do.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

The electrolysis process is used with sodium carbonate & a battery charger, definitely not a battery.

One such sodium carbonate product is "Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda, (see below).

Baking Soda, a different product, is sodium "bi"- carbonate, & can be used only if spread on a cookie sheet & baked at 300 degrees F for an hour.
http://antique-engines.com/images/a-h_soda.jpg

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Hi Craig,

I always try to avoid "wild guessing" what is the problem, & try to avoid "wild guessing" at a definite solution to the problem.

My experience is that if you try to second guess a Model A, you will most likely wind up on the short end.

After hearing of your beating the end of the bumper bolt located in only the top bumper bar, & it did not move, as a backup solution, I would consider having a plan B., i.e., a center punch & some drill bits handy for bumper bolt removal just in case electrolysis does not work -- you can always find future use for drill bits if not needed this time!

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

#5, I did suggest using a press.

For electrolysis I use washing soda and tap water, then connect to my 6 amp battery charger. It only takes a few tablespoons of washing soda, which can be found in most grocery stores.

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

H.L. Chauvin, I think you meant to addres the bumper issue to cabrioletgalaxie. I appreciate the tidbit on the Bicarb not being the same though. Didn't know there was a difference. So much for listening to my pool guy! lol

Re: Bumper bolt removal
 

Thanks ctlikon0712!

For safety & for other reasons, something else with electrolysis:

1. Don't do electrolysis in a room with an intermittent open flame or one with a constant open flame pilot light on something like a gas water heater or a gas stove -- explosive hydrogen is emitted in the process.

2. Don't experiment with other unknown chemicals such as salt which can emit chlorine gas -- just follow the directions.

3. Don't do this process in any unventilated habitable areas, or near your Model A with the doors open -- the strong smell is something never before experienced -- also, if spilled, the water gets to look like it could really mess up & stain a finished floor or concrete slab.