Block cleaning
 

I'm about ready to assemble my engine. All the machine work is done and checked.
I'd like to know the beat way to make a final cleaning before I assemble.
Maybe some of the pros can offer some advice. The block is mounted to an engine stand at this time
Thanks
Jim

Re: Block cleaning
 

After I have my blocks oven baked and short peened I spray it down with oil to keep it from rusting. Then I bore it and hone it and grind valve seats, then I bring it back to the cleaning shop and put it in the jet washer for 20min. Wash it inside and out with hot water hose, wipe a little WD40 on cly walls, bring it home and spray all the inside base area and valve spring area with grafite spray and paint the outside with engine color. Now you van assemable it. Walt

Re: Block cleaning
 

I've got a big sink in my workshop which I used to wash my newly machined Model A block. Hot soapy water and scrubbing, plus I have little hole brushes for oil ways. But wont get the V8 in there if I ever have to! My neighbour does his with a steam cleaner, I think that is the way to go.

Then blow it out with the air gun and when nice eand dry, spray with WD40.

Cheers, Tom.

Re: Block cleaning
 

Jim, I put my blocks on their nose and use long pics and skinny screw drivers to poke around in the rear crevices. Blowing air helps and if you have a pressure washer, blow that in there. If there is any crud, it will gravitate to the big water pump holes

Re: Block cleaning
 

speaking of preventing rust after cleaning; has anybody tried Gibbs oil? It is supposed to protect and have the ability to paint right over it.

Re: Block cleaning
 

Thanks everyone
Jim

Re: Block cleaning
 

Chuck some 1/8" cable, or better yet, an old speedometer cable in a hand drill. Feed it down all water passage holes. Don't run the drill at full speed, as it can climb out and clean you up as well. I've down this and the cable seems to climb up and down the cylinder walls in addition to the block walls. Works well.

Re: Block cleaning
 

Long brushes and long screwdrivers

Re: Block cleaning
 

If you can I think that they are best cleaned before machining, my last one was chemically stripped and it looked like a brand new block inside ,follow all of the above .Pre machining soak it in Molasses or Vinegar .If there are any dough's run a stocking .

Re: Block cleaning
 

He said all machine work is finished. Ya GOTTA scrub a block after machine work. DD

Re: Block cleaning
 

A question about shot peening: Do you guys (engine machinists) think that shot peening roughs up the bearings surfaces enough that they need to be honed smooth again. A friend who is a retired machinist (industrial, not engine shop) says that the grit will raise the surface of the block, and cause the tolerances to close up so the main bearings, cam bearings, and lifters will not fit correctly. He likes to run a hone through all those openings to knock down the surfaces. What do you guys think and do?

I suggested we just leave the old bearings in the block when we have it blasted, but that still doesn't protect the lifter bosses.

Re: Block cleaning
 

Yes, the block is really clean. But I want to wash it out well, before assembly.
Thanks V8 Coop
Jim

Re: Block cleaning
 

The last auto machine shop I ran for 10yr's before I retired we bought a baking oven and shot peen setup. $35000.00. A lot of blocks went through there in 10yr's. I've been retired 15yr's and still build 10-12 engine every year mostly in the winter. Every one is baked and peened. I always run a blueberry hone ( like the one you hone break cyl, with) through the lifter bores and guide bores. The steel shot will bugger the sharp edge on the lifter bore and make the lifters and guides go in hard. Then I spray it down with WD-40 or oil and finish boring cyl and grinding valve seats. Then run the engine through a jet washer, then it's spotless and ready to build. I've never seen any damage to main bearing bore or cam bearing bore. Walt

Re: Block cleaning
 

Yes I misread ,diesel or degreaser then water blast ,then paint then lite oil .

Re: Block cleaning
 

I understand you are asking about final cleaning only but I will start at the beginning.
After tear down, I hot tank the block to get rid of the major dirt and grease.
The block is steam cleaned BY HAND when out of the tank. NO JET WASHERS. NO BAKE OVENS and most definitely NO SHOT BLASTING!
After wet magging and powder checking the block is sent out for acid/electrolysis stripping.
This is the ONLY way ALL of the rust and scale can be removed from the water jackets.
After all machine work and ready for assembly the block is stood nose down on a wash table grate, then scrubbed with HOT water, dish washer detergent and hosed off. This is a REALLY messy job that requires full rain gear and face shield to keep from getting burned. The cylinder bores and lifter bores are scrubbed with appropriate brushes. After washing and blowing off, the block should be hot enough for any remaining water to quickly evaporate.
Most people would assume the block is now ready for assembly (after oil spray).
Not so. If you now take an oil soaked WHITE rag and rub through the cylinder bores, I guarantee the rag will come out black. Keep wiping with new clean oil soaked rags till the rag comes out just as white as it starts out. Same deal with the lifter bores.
NOW, you are ready to assemble.
I hand paint FLAT BLACK after final assembly so all exposed surfaces are covered. All of my engines are for circle track racing but the cleaning procedure should apply to any engine.

Re: Block cleaning
 

Can't argue with any of your steps, but I would not build an engine without pressure testing the block.

Re: Block cleaning
 

Oops, I assumed that.