New wiring harness, and a question:
 

All,

I installed the harness in my project today; When I turn the switch to 5 o'clock, the headlamps burn bright, there's power to the tail light and no power to the cowl pigtail. When I turn the switch to 7 o'clock there's power to the cowl and tail, but no headlamps. Is this correct? If so; why are there two leads to the headlamps and two filaments in the bulbs?

R/ Roger.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Here are my switch positions:

Parking lights--Off--Low beams--High beams

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

there are 2 positions to the right, first is low, then one more click to 4 o clock should be high beam. The click to 7 oclock is cowl and tail only ( parking)

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Thanks. I just tried it again: It won't go past the 5 o'clock and I pushed as hard as I dare. Could I have the spider in the wrong holes or somthing?

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

As stated above, all the way to the left or fully clockwise at about 7 o'clock should be parking lights. Straight down at the 6 o'clock position is off. At the 5 o'clock position, you should have low beams, and all the way to the right or fully counter-clockwise at about 4 o'clock should be high beams.

Presuming you can feel the detents as you move your light control switch throughout it's full travel, do you detect 3 or 4 detents? If 4 but the last detent to the right occurs at 5 o'clock, then your steering column or light switch housing is rotated. If less than the full 4 detents, then I would remove the light switch housing, see if you have a wider range of travel left and right. If so then perhaps your light switch body is not assembled correctly or correctly installed to the light switch bracket on the end of the steering column (these are keyed but not impossible to assemble incorrectly). If not, then the problem appears to be in the light switch spider/horn rod connection (presuming your horn rod is not bent and restricting travel).

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Also, it's rare, but I have seen one 7 tooth steering where the light switch rotated due to a loose fit on the bottom plate. The bottom plate looks like it's one pice, but it's actually two pieces pressed together. By bottom plate I mean the lower bushing for the steering shaft, and the light switch bail plate, which are the two pieces pressed tightly together.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

it is possible, but not easily, to get the spider into one of the other holes in the switch. Look inside from the column side for the two rectangular holes. Line them up with the tab on the lower outside housing. Look back into the switch from the column side. You should see area to the sides of the holes , but it will be1/3 to the right on top, and 2/3 to the left. Opposite on the bottom . If that's the case, try moving them with a small screwdriver to see if you can feel one to the left and two to the right. Some repro switch plates are difficult to move into, if yours is repro. The originals always move smoothly and with a good click into the detent.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

This may help understand switch positions,

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

I could be wrong,but I think the 28 lite switch has only 3 positions--park,off and head lights.The switch is different as well as the bakelite disc on the lite harness.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

I will second the switch if you look down in the upper switch body there is a stop the one you want has two spokes like the picture on the left. the picture on the right only has two on positions.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Eureaka! My switch looks like the one on the right. I guess I need another one.

Does anybody need a good working original two-on-position switch?

Thank you all for your suggestions and visuals. This part is as much fun as actually building the car!

R/ Roger.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Seems that I might have one of the "rare" ones. I have yet to install the light harness but noticed mine rotates. Will the bale wire hold it in place once assembled or is there a way to lock it back tight again?
Dave

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

The loose one I worked on I removed the bottom 4 bolts and took the part out, then staked it with a sharp center punch in several places all the way around. That tightened it up just fine. No, the bail will not hold it from turning if the plate is loose on the bushing.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

The fluted light switch is pretty hard to find, so you should have no trouble finding a buyer for it. I looked for a couple years to find mine.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Guys,

You were right; a friend stopped by with a headlight switch 'kit' that had four positions. I was able to put the contact ring and spring back in after cleaning the parts with brake cleaner and lubricating it all with 90w (it would be soon enough!), and it works like it ought to. The used parts are not quite as crisp in operation as the other switch: I have to wiggle it a little to get tail lights in the high beam position, but I have all four clicks. It seems I have the bulbs in upside down anyway as the high beams are at 5pm and the low at 4pm.

Thank you all again. If someone needs the three position switch, please PM me.

One step closer,,,.

R/ Roger.

Re: New wiring harness, and a question:
 

Thanks Tom.