Engine mounts for 40 Deluxe
 

The engine mounts (No. 78-6038) have a central bolt which sandwiches the upper and lower rubbers together. When the nut is done up it compresses the rubbers and provides a certain amount of preload, I would like to know how this preload is measured.
Is there a prescribed torque for the nut? Is the nut done up finger tight then add say 4 turns?
If the nut is done up so the stepped shank on the bolt butts up against the large flat washer, the rubbers are compressed excessively!

Re: Engine mounts for 40 Deluxe
 

I'm pretty sure the nuts are done up tight. The larger part of the bolt shank comes right through to the underside of the large flat washer that sits on the upper part of the mount.

Now. Some I bought recently had two different raised portions on the lower mount. They are different diameters to suit different hole diameters. One (the small one in a 40) needs to be trimmed off. If both are in place it makes it difficult to do up properly (Too tight).

If your mounts have both raised rings in place it will be as you describe, too tight. If only one is in place, then I can't advise, other than to say the nut should be tight.

Mart.

Re: Engine mounts for 40 Deluxe
 

I just install with the nut "snug" with no play and then tightened about 1 turn more. No need to squash or crush rubber. Same with transmission mounts..

Re: Engine mounts for 40 Deluxe
 

Many of the Ford motor mounts have a special stepped shank bolt. The bolt can only compress the cushions as far as the step will let it before the nut & washer tighten against the stepped portion.

Re: Engine mounts for 40 Deluxe
 

Here's a Merc. motor mount and more.
https://cgfordparts.com/wwwsectionfi...tor-Mount-Kits

Re: Engine mounts for 40 Deluxe
 

My existing front mounts were marsh mellows and the thru-bolts were just dangling loose. The tranny saddle mount (mine's a '47) was as good as new. My kit came with new bolts and washers, which matched the original. However, I had to put a small hydraulic jack under the car - under the bolt head, in order to force the top threaded shank of the bolt to protrude high enough to start the slotted nut on. I had to tighten the nuts quite a bit to get the cotter pin through the hole in the bolt. Note: I first experienced a little vibration after installing the new mounts but it went away after a bit of aggressive driving. :rolleyes: